Dugbi

Hi @Kfruechtl, i notice that your in australia like me and I have a very simmular problem with my Fibaro Relays. I purchased 2x dual relays to use in a pool area. 1 switched on a LED light and the other Switched on a LED TV. Both had locked contacts when I first got them which had me believing that they werent working. They would still click but nothing would pass through. I tried everything and nothing worked, until some one suggested that I cracked them with a screw driver. They worked on my test bench next to the HC2 but not when I put them back in. I eventually moved them within a 5m range of the controller and they started to work. So now I have used them for lighting above the HC2 and they work well. I wonder if there is a range issue with the Australian Version?. They were the Plus version, latest model. In regards to Autofranks comment about the battery units, I agree. I had so many issues that I placed 2x 12vdc (190W) panels on the roof and ran them to a 120AH deep cylce battery. I ran the wireing all through the house and placed a 5vdc step down transformer in the box to supply power. Now the sensors operate even without power for about 14hrs and that includes the HC2. So far including my 24vdc lighting I have never seen the 24vdc draw go above 2 AMP. This allows you to use the Fibaro 12/24vdcx4 modules for switching relays. Far cheaper way to go and the relays are see through and run indictor lights and are fully replacable. So just realised I was rambling on Sorry.

Hi @romraj couple of things, have you tried a hard reset. Secondly if you do the reset does it hang on the last illuminated LED. my first Homecentre2 locked up after I updated it. I couldnt get the web service to come back up and after hard resetting it it would flash the LEDS from Left to Right one at a time until the last LED was flashing but all the others were solid. But it never came back and was essentially Bricked. You can open the covers and access the VGA port and hook a monitor up and it may give you a fault code. Never found out what caused mine to fail, luckily my supplier replace it.

Your a very patient man @AutoFrank. I would suggest avoiding 4.120 if you can unitl they fix it. The 2 betas after it dont resolve the issues created in 4.120. SInce updating I have had many issues including the 503 error. This morning I got up to find that the Sunrise function is turning on 2 hours to soon. I would hate for you to corrupt your new device table and get the 503Error.

A few interesting things I found out about the unit 1. The outputs are power variable meaning that you can use them to control Lights but but only light of the same voltage as the units power feed. 2. Unfortunatley the power value is for all individual outputs meaning that they are all either on/off or variable. You cant set the individual output channels individually. 3. You can also use the units earth feed into a Input to measure the feed voltage or run the earth through a relay contact to use it as a sensor or switch. One advantage of this is that I use simple reed switches as water sensors and simply feed the earth across the contacts. If water closes the contacts you register 0 volts at the GUI other wise it shows 24vdc. Also I use these on my solar battery system were the RGBW runs of the solar feed and when the voltage drops to a certain level it isolates the solar feed and switches to a mains charger unit for the batteries, The beauty being one RGBW unit does both functions. Example I have a LED TV mounted on the wall in timber frame displaying all my families photos it also has a Apple TV gen4 running to display and play music and multimedia. Around the outside hidden under the lip is a 24vdc RGBW LED strip. I use 1x output to switch a relay which controls the 240AC feed to the display and Apple TV and the 3 other outputs to turn on the Red Green and Blue LED's. I have scenes that turn the LED's on with a delay between each color that gives a rainbow type of effect. The LEDs work as a night light in the living area aswell as coming on at 7:00pm indicating that its time for my kids to get showered. The RED LEDS are aslo set to come on and off if the Intruder alarm is activated and the Blue LEDS flash on and off indicating a water leak in the house. I have installed a 24vdc solar system with backup batteries that feeds the circuit, the wireing is all in the roof space and is separate to the house feed. If there is a power outage or fault the automation system is not effected. Im in the process of making LED night lights that come on as people move through the house. I have also run a feed to my UPS system and removed the batteries. This allows my QNAP servers, Voip Router, ADSL Router, Network Switch, Wireless Router and Homecentre2 to run for 14 days without power. Once you go down the 24vdc path there is very little limitation to what you can do, and the best thing is it's way cheaper than fitting a individual unit in each power point. Oh I should mention the best thing about running with RGBW and switching relays. I supply a feed to lights external to the wall switch. Let me explain, the wall switch sends 240vac to the light, the light already has a earth so it turns on. You turn the switch off the light goes off. The RGBW detects someone in the hallway so it sends a 240VAC feed (Via Relay) to the light. The light turns on. The person leaves the sensing range and the RGBW turns the light off. It the RGBW fails it doesnt matter as the wall switch still works regardless. This has worked so well in my house that no one even touches the wall switches any more as the system switches the lights on or off (I get a laugh every now then when I have visitors and they think my house is haunted because they reach for the wall switch and the lights turn on before they get there. I have my mother in law convinced that I have a computer system in the house that reads her mind and does things before she thinks it.) Any way the great thing about this is when your in wall switch units fail you cant turn your lights on at all (yes it happens, I have had 2x Fibaro dual relay unit weld the contacts open).

Pretty much that scenario. Though I dont think you can use the input from the switches if you are using the outputs. I purchased some lovely 4x relay banks with din rail mounts from ebay, about $22.00 each and then fed the earth into the relay as the switch. Ill take some photos of the boxes I have built so far.

Yeah its funny how I installed the automation system to turn off Aircons and lights because I cant get my family to. Only problem is when it fails nothing works and then my wife is always there to tell me how big a waste of money the whole thing is. But when it works they dont even know and everybody just thinks the house is always warm and the they must have turned the lights off (eventhough I have disconnected the switches!).

Hi All I have 2x Remotec ZRC-90 units which are used mainly for emergency lighting and All on and All Off functions. Installed them due to the wife struggling with the whole automation process so I had to simplify. At first they were a complete night mare due to the templates in Homecentre2 not being correct but in recent updates that seems to have been sorted. As far the controller goes they are sturdy and work well. I light the fact that they are removable aswell. Another great product has been the Aeotec 6in1 Sensor unit. I have 14 installed in the house and they operate with no issues. Highly adjustable and look the part. The Homecentre2 template is getting better but it still has issues with fire warnings and transmit times. The lumens sensor is very fidly and doesnt have much of a threshold but its good enough to detect night and day. I would also have to recommend the Remotec IR controller. I have 5 of these units and they are fantastic. I can now controll all my aircons and heaters via the automation system and they work very well. The inbuilt temp sensor is garbage but I use the Aeotec sensors for room temp anyway. To end I would have to say my favorite unit is the Fibaro RGBW. Since I discovered this baby I havnt installed a wall switch. All my lights and power points are controlled by boxes in the roof space that use the RGBW controler to switch relays. This way I can have parallel control over any light, power point and HVAC. I run the units of a dedicated 24vdc supply line powered by solar and a small battery. They can sense Temp and there own power feed so I can get a warning when the solar starts to drop off. I love these little units and have them all over the house. Best thing is for one box you can control 4 different items. Cheers

May I suggest purchasing simple 12/24vdc temp and humidity displays with probe and relay output off Ebay, they cost about $9.00aus each and using the inputs on the RGBW as simple switches. I installed 4x RGBW units in my HVAC underfloor heating system and gave up on trying to find a temp sensor to suit. The cheapest one I found that was plug and play was $120.00 and in came with a bulky converter unit. I ended up buying several of the ones pictured and simply used them to switch the feed when the temp was reached. You can set them for a heat temp or a cooling temp. when they reach that temp they open the contacts. Run off the same power feed and allow you to have manual control and a visual feedback. Oh they also have a delay timer built in for delayed start. There is a Identical one that does Humidity. The real beauty is that you can 4 of these hooked up to one RGBW.

Lovely setup. I'm glad to see it's not just me with data closets in my house. My wife tells me that there is to much tech going on but now I can just show her your setup and I will have complete justification. I run Apple TVs of a Qnap NAS using plex which has served me well. I must admit that my system is still in its infancy but growing steadily. I started the home automation thing to simplify my life but it has done anything but. I must admit I'm am hesitant to completely control all systems with it as I have had a lot of firmware and hardware issues with Vera and Homecentre and my family are not tech minded so it complicates things. I'm now moving towards RGBW controllers with relay interface. Has made the system more time consuming to install but allows me to run the automation in parallel so if there is a failure everything still works. Very nice system and setup.

I would be more than interested in a option to get alexa up and working. Honestly i hate the way everything is going to cloud. I think everything should be controlled locally as Internet is unreliable at best. My experience with Fibaro has been less than stellar so far, I live in fear of updates as I seem to gain a bugfix and then get new bugs. I dont understand how there can be so many problems with a dedicated system. if you do get the Pi unit working count me in. I feel that if I wait for Fibaro to get there plugin sorted it probly wont be bug free eg I dropped a $300.00 on a Nest thermostate because it worked with HomeCentre to then find out they have halted the plugin. 3 firmware Updates later and the plugin still isnt available, I mean Really do they realize that this stuff controls peoples houses. Sorry for the rant but I was originally on the forums looking for a solution to the 503 error now occuring after the 4.120 update.

It runs the feed to a LCD flat panel tv and a Flouro light with a combined draw of 155watts. I just moved it to a new location closer to the HC2 running a ceiling fan and a light and still wouldn't work. So I got mad and cracked it open and cracked the relays with the back of the screw driver and now they work flawlessly. Amazing to think that Fibaro uses crap relays that stick out of the box. I have never had a problem with my Aeotec modules. I will locate these ones in an easy to get location and go back to Aeotec units. More expensive to buy two but less aggravation. Thanks for the reply.

Hi to all, I have been fighting with 2 FGS-223 relays for about a week now. I have finally got them to connect to the HC2 and have feed back from both switches but the contacts on the units allways pass power so they are closed. I though maybe this was a setting in the HC2 or maybe the relay itself but now Im convinced that the relay is buggered. To make things worse they are brand new out of the box. I can hear the relays clicking when switched but the contacts stay closed. Has any one experienced this.