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About petergebruers
- Birthday 09/26/1967
Profile information
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Gender
Male
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Country
Belgium
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Gateway/s
Home Center 3
Home Center 3 Lite
Home Center 2
Other / Inne -
Interests
Domotics, electronic design, programming, music and photography.
petergebruers's Achievements
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Tutorial: Single scene instance / Event model
petergebruers replied to jgab's topic in Tutorials and Guides
Last time I checked was in 2017 on a HC2 and it certainly did... Even worse than creating traffic, they also get queued I cannot test that on a HC3 right now and to make the question a bit more complicated: HC3 ZW2 might behave differently than HC3 ZW3 because the latter is based on completely different Z-Wave engine. A possible test you can do: send "turnOn" to a single device in a "for loop", say 100 or 1000 iterations, without any sleep... If your Z-Wave network gets sluggish then they get sent... Two rules I used in my scenes on HC2: Send "turnOn" only if the device is "off" and you want it on Add a small sleep, 100 to 250 ms, to allow for reporting and avoid saturation your system if you accidentally write an infinite loop- 4,679 replies
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- events
- rule engine
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Scene activation by double click on switch
petergebruers replied to smartgest's question in Scenes and Interface
In 2017 I investigated a similar issue reported by another user. We concluded that the model owned by this user has a weird problem: Central Scene Event does not work reliably if the module is "far away" and uses a routed connection. I cannot say from the info in this topic if the type and firmware is exactly the same.... What I would do is exclude the module, bring it to within 3 meter of the controller and include it. Set the parameters en test if events are reported reliably on one of the slave devices. If that works but stops working as soon as you move the module to its original location, then you are bitten by this bug described in the post from 2017 -
Yes, that is the most likely cause. This problem has been reported since 2017... occasionally. The plugs act is if they got "excluded" from the network, so only local control works There have been many attempts at explaining what is going on (eg non volatile memory corruption) but AFAIK this issue is still unresolved Long discussion here IMHO the only resolution is "force delete" the misbehaving device on the HC to clean up the mess and then "add" the device back, ... which leads to new device IDs which never makes anybody happy...
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[Tutorial] Z-wave diagnostics with PC Controller and Zniffer
petergebruers replied to tinman's topic in Tutorials and Guides
Thank you for reporting back. I am sure a wired solution increases reliability. There are many aspects to HA and we all have our preferences. Personally, I value reliability a lot, like you, and that's how I started with zniffer and deep dive into the protocol. I have discussed KNX and Velbus wired solutions. At times it was tempting but price kept me from implementing even a small test setup... Maybe one day we will meet again. Have fun with your new setup! -
[Tutorial] Z-wave diagnostics with PC Controller and Zniffer
petergebruers replied to tinman's topic in Tutorials and Guides
@Pica2017 @Rosavision If the PC does not detect the "UZB" then most likely your UZB does not run a "USB bootloader firmware". This is something you cannot know unless the manufacturer tells You. I see @Rosavision has bought a device from ZWAVE.ME - I cannot tell if recent firmwares have the bootloader. I do know that the most used and recommended device to turn into a Zniffer is the SILABS UZB3 (EDIT 2023-05-07: full order reference of the Silabs device is ACC-UZB3-E-BRG or ACC-UZB3-E-STA for the European version/frequency), last time I check that device was unavailable everywhere (EDIT 2023-05-07 I saw 2 available at Digikey) BTW IIRC the PC Programming tool comes with a driver installer to detect the UZB and enable programming, did you install it? That might be another reason for the software to not detect the dongle. If you want to flash a ZWAVE.ME UZB (tiny dark grey dongle based on series 500 chipset - not the newer based on series 700) which was "bricked" or does not have the bootloader then you will need (1) Good soldering skills (2) very thin wires (3) a CP2102 serial to UART converter (a few $ on Aliexpress) - then some patience and perseverance If you "brick" the Silabs UZB3 it can probably be salvaged in the same way as the ZWAVE.ME device but I do not have the UZB3 and cannot give details. You can flash those devices over "serial" port if you use that CP2102 converter, the Programming Tool will recognise the UART converter as a Silabs programmer and write firmware over uart... If you have ever flashed microcontrollers like ESP8266 or ESP32 or STM8/STM32/PIC then you'll probable have the skills and will half understand what I am saying here. If you have never done this I could probable have written this explanation in any foreign language and it would have been equally (un)helpful. Sorry for not being more precise, I have done this 5 years ago (I bricked my UZB and did not want to throw it in the bin) and I do not have all the details. I have a picture of how to connect the UART converter to the UZB but at the moment I cannot find it... -
Help converting IEEE-754 Floating Point to decimal
petergebruers replied to jwi's question in Scenes and Interface
Here is an improved version, using "unsigned int" instead of "signed int" for intermediate representation. Unsigned int can represent bigger numbers than unsigned int. --[[ SENEC photovoltaic API - convert fl_ string to float, format described here: https://blog.odenthal.cc/query-the-hidden-api-of-your-senec-photovoltaik-appliance/ Based on https://stackoverflow.com/questions/29592951/lua-hex-to-float Tested with https://gregstoll.dyndns.org/~gregstoll/floattohex/ ]]-- function fl_to_float(data) local x=tonumber(data:sub(4),16) local f=string.pack("I4",x) return (string.unpack("f",f)) end print(fl_to_float("fl_42C80000"), "Should print 100") print(fl_to_float("fl_40130020"), "Should print 2.296") print(fl_to_float("fl_C44B5A3D"), "Should print -813.41") print(fl_to_float("fl_457A0000"), "Should print 4000") print(fl_to_float("fl_C57A0000"), "Should print -4000") Based on the "gregstoll" converter that is indeed correct. Depends on your worldview if you consider that to be "around 4000". -
Help converting IEEE-754 Floating Point to decimal
petergebruers replied to jwi's question in Scenes and Interface
data="fl_42C80000" x=tonumber(data:sub(4),16) s=string.pack("i4",x) f=string.unpack("f",s) print(f) Prints "100" Basen on: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/29592951/lua-hex-to-float -
Well it might depend on the exact model you have. My Harmony Remote definitely does (or did) not have any update capabilities because the "server" part at Logitech no longer exists. The software I used "seemed" to run locally but it actually needed a server par that isn't available anymore. I cannot send a reference because I do not use the remote and cannot remember its exact model number. But on the Logitech support site I can only find pictures of remotes manufactured right after I bought mine. In am definitely not imagining that they made changes impossible. I am not sure if they somehow added compatibility for those older devices, and I haven't checked there site in a very long time... There is a long list of model numbers... https://support.myharmony.com/en-be/download#legacy "Harmony has moved away from a website application and now uses either the MyHarmony desktop software and/or Harmony mobile app, depending on your remote. The website login has been phased out." IIRC my remote at the time was firmware or software 6.X-ish and they do mention compatibility if your device ran 7.X But this is a > 10 year old history lesson: do not assume that if you buy the hardware, you will also own and be able to use the tools to configure and maintain your hardware
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Yeah but before you buy this, you might want to understand this device might use the "Harmony Model". I'll explain what that means: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/aqara-new-people-presence-sensor-fp2/545374/40 I quote: I blocked the internet from one of my test devices and from my quick tests I found the following: Local reporting still worked. So in HA I was still getting notifications of sensor updates. This is probably because homekit works locally. The aqara app that you need to configure it does not seem to function. I can’t edit the zones or even do a firmware update. It complains about the communication with the device. So that seems to go through their cloud. So it looks like once you configure it you can cut it off, but anytime you need to make a change you need to get it back online. Another user independently called it Harmony because ... "This is what I call “The Harmony Model.” The Logitech Harmony hub works like that. It’s fine with no internet connection as long as you never need to change anything on it." I have have a harmony remote that has been stuck in the past for more than 10 years because Logitech ended the "cloud service". It still works, but you cannot change it.
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Hehehe. Once you get a taste of the possibilities, opportunities, hardware and protocol support, there is no way back.
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I have been running HASS alongside Fibaro Home Center since 2018. My setup is overly complex and I have almost the same issues with this setup as mentioned by @Lode and @ppeterr. Because of my complex setup and these drawbacks (eg reread the previous posts about some possible VPN / remote access solutions) I rarely post about it. I do recommend it though if you have time and are a power user. IMHO HASS has evolved enough into a "user friendly product" to attract a wider audience... I am not here to defend either Fibaro or Home Assistant, I think running both avoids you falling into the "the grass is always greener on the other side" trap.
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Yeah, sure, and I am definitely not against your solution because it is based on Wireguard. Definitely the "zero config zero portforwarding" is easy and sometimes needed https://tailscale.com/compare/wireguard/ I quote: Tailscale is built on top of WireGuard; we think very highly of it. Absolutely, and you need some "public" service to make the rendez-vous for you. You can build that infrastructure yourself but then you need a public server and are able to run the management service which imho makes you a power user. Now you both mention this, I think this guide by "Andreas Spiess" about Zerotier VPN might interest a few users in case they do not trust Fibaro or Nabu Casa for example... At the moment, Zerotier is free up to 25 Nodes, tomorrow the price or number might be different 🙃 Also, right now, we have the "Open Source Community Edition", featuring unlimited nodes, networks, and admins. Self-hosted. Designed for non-commercial use cases. I haven't tried the open source version yet. I am only mentioning that because "open source" is often regarded as a seal of approval. Of course it is also very educational! https://docs.zerotier.com/self-hosting/introduction If you want the easy setup, as far as I can see, you will end up tied to the company behind Zerotier (or Fibaro or Nabu Casa or ...) because they own the "roots" aka rendez-vous service to set up the VPN or the reverse tunnel... Here is the imho highly educational video:
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I would say the answers of chatgpt are like Prisencolinensinainciusol Named after a famous song by A. Celentano. Sounds like a real programming language, but it is not (EDIT: quite a few users have said, it "hallucinates", it makes up facts, constructs and references).
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For sake of completeness, since the OP mentioned Home Assistant, if you are running Homa Assistant OS there is an add on to do the Wireguard configuration for you https://community.home-assistant.io/t/home-assistant-community-add-on-wireguard/134662 Search for the “WireGuard” add-on in the add-on store and install it. Set the host configuration option to your (external) address, e.g., myhome.duckdns.org. Change the name of the peer to something useful, e.g., myphone. Save the configuration. Start the “WireGuard” add-on Check the logs of the “WireGuard” add-on to see if everything went well. Forward port 51820 (UDP!) in your router to your Hass.io 963 IP. Download/Open the file /ssl/wireguard/myphone/qrcode.png stored on your Hass.io 963 machine, e.g., using Samba, Visual Studio Code or the Configurator add-on. Install the WireGuard app on your phone. Add a new WireGuard connection to your phone, by scanning the QR code. Connect! Unless you have a business IP connection you probably have a dynamic address hence all these setups will refer to something akin to "duckdns" That said, I do think the solution offered by Fibaro (which requires no configuration but does use Fibaro public servers) is by far the easiest. Or the (non-free) "Nabu Casa" solution. There surely are reasons to use a VPN but "ease of use" is not one of them, imho.
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From scratch, none of the more recent protocols are easy to setup due to the amount of options and evolution of things like "ciphers" and "(CG) NAT" and IPV6 and so on. However, ff you are on a Raspberry Pi, use this to get results in about 5 minutes without reading 500 pages of jargon: https://pivpn.io I quote: PiVPN is a set of shell scripts developed to easily turn your Raspberry Pi™ into a VPN server using two free, open-source protocols: - Wireguard - OpenVPN PiVPN should be, bar none, the simplest and fastest way to Install and set up an extremely secure OpenVPN or Wireguard server on your raspberry pi. You won't need a guide or tutorial as PiVPN will do it all for you in a fraction of the time with hardened security settings in place by default. I used it with OpenVPN but later switched to Wireguard. I value my time at 20 EUR / hour, so fighting 10 hours with "manual setup" can buy me about three Rpi 4 ...