Jump to content

Welcome to Smart Home Forum by FIBARO

Dear Guest,

 

as you can notice parts of Smart Home Forum by FIBARO is not available for you. You have to register in order to view all content and post in our community. Don't worry! Registration is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to sign up. Become a part of of Smart Home Forum by FIBARO by creating an account.

 

As a member you can:

  •     Start new topics and reply to others
  •     Follow topics and users to get email updates
  •     Get your own profile page and make new friends
  •     Send personal messages
  •     ... and learn a lot about our system!

 

Regards,

Smart Home Forum by FIBARO Team


RH_Dreambox

Member
  • Posts

    962
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About RH_Dreambox

Profile information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Country
    Sweden
  • Gateway/s
    Other / Inne
  • Interests
    All technical things

Contact

  • Website URL
    http://www.swedenroots.se

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

RH_Dreambox's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (4/8)

179

Reputation

3

Community Answers

  1. Why not try typing MQTT in the search window above?
  2. Hi @_dynek If I understand you correctly, if you start your HC2 with an external operating system (Linux), it will reboot after a while. But if you start it with Fibaro's system, it works as it should? If so, it may very well be that Fibaro's components are interfering with your Linux. Fibaro's operating system is still connected and it might try to start up and collide with your Linux. Regarding Fibaro's USB security stick, it should not be connected at all. It is many years since Fibaro stopped using it and the recommendation is to remove it. And a Raspberry PI 5 will be fine as hardware for the HA. But my recommendation is that you connect an SSD disc to run HA on. The reason is that an SSD disc is much faster than an SD card. Also, SD cards have a tendency to crash when you least expect it. And just don't forget to exclude the devices in HC2 before including them in HA.
  3. Hi @_dynek If you want to start using a real home automation (HomeAssistant) then the motherboard in the HC2 is a good start. Unfortunately, you cannot reuse the components that Fibaro has mounted on the motherboard. You have to remove these components as my pictures show, otherwise the system will behave strangely. It is not possible to use Fibaro's Z-wave module, it must be replaced by a USB Z-wave stick. Fibaro's backup can't be used either because it only works on your Fibaro system and is encrypted. So when you start with HomeAssistant, you start with a completely clean system free from Fibaro's limitations. It is also important that you read the information that describes how to install HomeAssistant. In the motherboard BIOS you need to enable UEFI boot and also disable Secure Boot as described in the manual. https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/generic-x86-64 In the beginning you will feel unfamiliar with how the system is handled, but after a while you will be happy with your system and the fact that you are free from Fibaro's limitations. And don't forget to search YouTube, where you will find lots of videos on how to install HA, how to add integrations, add-ons, devices, etc. There is a sea of integrations and add-ons ready to use. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/ And if you e.g. want a voice-controlled automation, it is available in HA ready to use.
  4. @Ju2 Old post, but still relevant! Yes, they are still here... http://www.swedenroots.se/download/HC2_HomeAssistant.zip
  5. @videovox Your signature shows that you have an HC2 but you are talking about the Quick App for HC3. Please change your signature status to avoid incorrect answers to your questions. Regarding your question about converting voltage to pressure, you do that in the configuration of your SmartImplant. Then you don't need to do your own calculation and the device will be displayed correctly. See my example where I convert voltage to cm on a level gauge. https://forum.fibaro.com/topic/60858-wall-central-control-panel/?do=findComment&comment=251052
  6. @Sankotronic Yes it was wrong of me, I should of course have sent a personal message I no longer use my HC3 (it's in the closet) but I still think it's nice to visit the forum from time to time. So if I write how positively I experience Home Assistant, I might get kicked out of the forum, and I don't want that
  7. @karleksbarn Välkommen till ditt nya hemautomatiksystem! Jag vågar lova dig att du kommer inte att bli besviken på Home Assistant. Nu öppnar sig en värld med möjligheter som du bara kunnat drömma om. Home Assistant är ett modernt system som har tusentals integrationer att välja på, så det är ganska osannolikt att du har någon enhet som inte går att integrera.
  8. Yes, that is correct. We just press the B button because the plug is just above the machine.
  9. I have had this solution for years without any problems. The Fibaro Wall Plug can handle 3000W instantaneous and 2500W continuous and your washing machine is not damaged by this. A small tip is to code so that when the washing is done, the power is automatically switched off. This reduces the risk of electrical problems. This is what we do with the washing machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher. In addition, a TTS message is sent to a tablet in the hallway informing you that the laundry or dishes are ready.
  10. @Vikino SmartImplant talks Z-wave, unfortunately not ZigBee. The easiest and cheapest solution is to connect a MAX6675 module to an ESP32 or ESP8266. ESP communicates with WiFi which is faster and more stable than ZigBee. If the HC3 can communicate WiFi (or MQTT) with the ESP modules, you will then have to write code to send and receive data. If you want to make it really easy for yourself, you can install HomeAssistant on a Raspberry. HomeAssistant includes ESPHome that communicates with the ESP modules and there are ready-made examples of how to configure and communicate with e.g.. MAX6675 module. The code below is all that is needed to get data out of the MAX6675 from HA. # Example configuration entry spi: miso_pin: D0 clk_pin: D1 sensor: - platform: max6675 name: "Living Room Temperature" cs_pin: D2 update_interval: 60s
  11. @Jacek_BB OK, I have the 3-phase model and the parameters are not the same as for the 1-phase model. But if you look at the parameters of the 1-phase model, I would test the following... 7 = 5 (bi stable) 10 = 255 100 = 2 112 = 2
  12. No, you don't need an IR relay. You provided so little information that I didn't know if you had an external relay. Have you configured parameters 7, 100 and 101 correctly?
  13. @Jacek_BB Have you purchased and connected the external optical relay intended for the Smart Meter? If not, nothing happens.
  14. @yuda I understand that you are new to home automation and you do not yet know how it works. As Fabir and SmartHomeEddy mention, you are in the wrong forum. You should go to the forum that relates to the controller you have purchased. You don't mention which controller it is, but you do mention Home Assistant, so you probably bought a Home Assistant Yellow or the latest model called Home Assistant Green. The Fibaro forum only deals with Fibaro controllers so you won't get any answers here. And you mention that you didn't find any information in the manual, which manual? Home Assistant's manuals are very good and illustrative with many examples (Fibaro has a lot to learn there). On YouTube you can also find excellent videos about Home Assistant on how different things work. I recommend you to watch these before you start your home automation project. An excellent manual on how to get started with Z-wave can be found here... https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/zwave_js/ https://www.home-assistant.io/blog/2023/09/17/home-assistant-green-your-entry-to-home-assistant/
  15. @Neo Andersson I may be stupid not to understand your problem, but using the RGBW function in the interface of a white LED strip works poorly or not at all. A white LED strip should only be regulated as an "Output" device where you regulate the output voltage (brightness) from 0 - 100%. This is what I do with my four white LED strips and there is never any problem with regulating the brightness. So I don't understand why you want to use the RGBW function in the interface when it is Output that should be used. A 12/24V halogen lamp and a single colour LED are configured and controlled in the same way. Look here... https://forum.fibaro.com/topic/56726-1-rgb-stripe-and-1-w-stripe-with-yubii/?do=findComment&comment=239485
×
×
  • Create New...