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TimJWatts

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  1. Hi, The manual is ambiguous - is the Humidity Panel designed to switch a humidifier or a dehumidifier? I've been trying to link an AEON multisensor (round one) and a TKB 13A switch to drive a dehumidifier in the shed. Seems to be coming on when it should be off, so I wondered... If anyone could confirm, it would save a lot of time Many thanks, Tim
  2. From the manual: "26. The function of 3-way switch Switch no. 2 controls the Dimmer 2 additionally (in 3-way switch mode). Function disabled for parameter 20 set to 2 (roller blind switch). " Anyone know what that actually means? Cheers, Tim From what I can gather the direct switching options are: Single momentary S1 - click for on, click for off, hold to dim up or down, double click is full on, triple click for inclusion/exclusion Single toggle switch S1 toggle for on/off, double quick toggle for max brightness, triple for ZWave inc/exc, no dim options. Rocker S1 - click for on, hold for increase brightness, double click for max, triple click for ZWave inc/exc S2 - click for off, hold to decrease
  3. Just had a reply from Fibaro support - you cannot downgrade. Oh bugger... There is apparently a new release very soon, so my only option is to see what that does...
  4. Has anyone ever done it? Having a whole load of stability issues with HC-Lite 4.058 beta and I need to downgrade to 4.057 which was super stable. I assume this is something one needs to ask Fibaro to do? Cheers, Tim
  5. Hi Joacim, That's interesting. I'd only heard about one of the switches (not dimmers) that was banned.
  6. Thanks Peter - that is very reassuring. I also assumed it would not use a triac as it can do trailing edge dimming.
  7. Hi Peter, Yes - I imagine a momentary pull cord ceiling switch (made by MK, normally used for disabled alarms - red cord) would be extremely bouncy. Also, I've had experience of certain dimmers with remote inputs that stipulate low bounce gold flashed contacts which suggests they are not well filtered. Thank you for sharing your experiences
  8. My Hikvision IPCam DS-2CD2432F-IW does not support MJPEG. It only supports static JPG (which Fibaro can show in the thumbnail) or RTSP. I suspect the same is true of yours. So: could Fibaro support RTSP too?
  9. Thanks Igy, I think whether the module is upset by switch bounce may just have to be tested - I should get one and evaluate it, also whether it really can drive various LED lamps nicely as claimed. The other is interesting - so clearly it has sensors. But will it shut itself down and/or limit the overload current and does it contain a thermal fuse for worst case scenarios? I need to mount this in the attic - it will already be on Euroclass B fire resistant board or plasterboard - I am debating whether to house the device in a plastic adaptable box or a metal box with the antenna wire poking out into a short stub of plastic conduit. I am extremely cautious as any form of mains powered electronics can go bang (I take the same precautions with SELV PSUs too) - but I am trying to get a feel for whether these have comprehensive safety features like thermal fuses built in. Guess I could open one up, assuming they are not potted.
  10. 2 questions: 1) Does it have reasonable debounce handing on the switch inputs? ie will it work happily with an MK momentary pull cord switch like this: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lighting-ceiling-pull-cord-switches/5000465/ A lot of dimmers with "remote" inputs insist on "nice" push buttons with gold flashed contacts etc etc. Just wondering if this was tolerant of "ordinary switches". 2) It is safe - does it contain a thermal fuse and overload protection. Or will it catch fire if it sees an overload from a failed lamp, under voltage from a problem with the mains outside and so on? This is a serious and non flippant question. I'd like to fit a few in my attic near the junction boxes for the circuits they are controlling - obviously housing the modules in an adaptable plastic box. So I'd like to know if they fail nicely if they are going to fail.
  11. I suspect too late for you, but for the archives: Hikvision DS-2CD2432F-IW video stream is over RTSP on port 554 - there is no HTTP URL. Fibaro v3 cannot handle RTSP video.
  12. It seems the "right way" is to just hold the + button in while it's running and that switches it to 192.168.81.1 OK - got it all back now and running on DHCP on th new network. Think this could do with some documentation by Fibaro...
  13. Well allejuya! I just rebooted it and with a bit of poking it has come up on 192.168.81.1 with settings intact.
  14. OK - don;t know what happened, but tried again and got recovery... Now, I suspect I'm going to have to reset this, but it would be nice to be able to fix the network without a full clear out
  15. Hi Folks, Reorganising my network (new IP block) and I set the new IP in the Fibaro config screen and rebooted. Now something bad has happened as it does not respond on either the new or old address (I set it static). Currently I have it jacked into the back of my laptop trying to get recovery mode running but it refuses. I have 192.168.1.10/16 set on my laptop's ethernet adaptor. I have a local DHCP server running just in case. And I have tried: 1 Press + and touch POWER then release + on the HC-L 2 Press and hold + whilst removing power, readding power and keeping the + pressed for ages 3 Let it boot normally and then press and hold + for a while. All with tcpdump running on my laptop. Every time, zero packets come out of the fibaro as it reboots. Except for 3 above, when as I hold the + button, it seems to emit some multicast DNS packets on port 5353 using the address 192.168.81.1 But it never pings on that address and it never lets me connect to a web interface. HOW do I get this thing into recovery? It seems that there's no real documentation, but I found some french sellers who documented it: http://tutoriels.domotique-store.fr/content/77/205/fr/restauration-de-votre-systeme-home-center-lite.html
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