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Z Wave.Me Zway controller build on raspberry Pi and razberry shield has a sniffer function which allows to see z-wave traffic in the network. It used to be called Z-wave CIT but z-wave alliance stopped developing of the tool and Z Wave.me took it over. Take a look there.

I dalej nikt nic nie wie???!!

Hi, Sauron eye is a standard PIR sensor, measuring Infrared light (it can be called heat map), so if moving object will have different temperature than background it will trigger the sensor, depence on sensitivity which you can change in settings. Detection range i showed in the manual.

When You make changes in parameters for battery devices, it will not be shown right away. New setting will be stored in the controller and send to device at the next wake up. When device will report new setting to the controller, you should see them in controller If you need to have change settings faster, you need to wake device up manually.

It's a sign of bad calibration. No. when you have 1 motor only, it's not possible. Slats turning only in bottom position, and this is at the end of movement, just before limit switch inside the motor activates. I think you don't really know how it's work.... You don't need a remote control, just a cord and power outlet. Try to google how tubular motor works or something like this. Maybe calibration of blinds limits is also necessary.

Yes, switching RCD (in USA is called GFCI ) may cause voltage spike, very likely when switch on surge current is high (lot of devices turn on, connected to power outlet etc.) It's not so easy to explain in few words, alternating current is a much more complicated than DC. Impedance, conductance, active power, reactive power, all this thing are AC only. You can read about voltage spikes here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_spike and lot other places on the internet. Power outage is not the same, some other things happening. Also power stations and transformators have some spikes suppressors installed. It doesn't matter with parameters. Triac's anode is connected all the time, you cannot change it with parameters.

It can happen. When you turning RCD off and turning it on again on certain load, it can make a spikes in the current and it's a deadly stuff for triacs which are used in dimmers. When you turning RCD on again, you have to switch off all fuses, turn RCD on and turn fuses on, one by one after that. It happen to me also. Electrician made same mistake on one of my projects, burning 5 dimmers out of 14 mounted. And that was not fibaro dimmers, just some "normal" cable operated. Power outage is not the same, you don't have spikes in mains..

Parameters 10, 12 and 13 are important. I'm referring to part "CALIBRATING SLATS POSITIONING IN VENETIAN BLINDS" I hope you understand how it's work. In the setup where you can use roller shutter 2 is only one motor. This motor pulling slats op and down, and in the very last moment of motor's movement near down end position turning also slats around. When you will change controlling mode to venetians blinds in parameter 10, and then will pull blinds down, motor will stop 1,5 second before endpoint. This 1,5s of motor movement is reserved to turning slats around. You can change this time in parameter 12. I assume that blind was working well before installing of roller shutter, I mean, when you pushed and hold button "down", slats gone down and turned..??

A próbowałeś odinstalować aplikacje z telefonów, wyczyścić cache i zainstalować na nowo? Może się coś pokwasilo w aplikacji w telefonach.. Jedyna inna rzecz co mi przychodzi do głowy, to to że masz jakąs scenę lub VD którą skopiowałeś z forum albo skądinąd, i jest tam funkcja push, może nie w pełni skonfigurowana. Lista urządzeń które mają dostawać push jest w ustawiania --> uprawnienia, ale to pewnie wiesz..

Pozdrawiamy i Zapraszamy

Read the manual, and make correct calibration. Topic of your post is Roller Shutter 2 but you writing in Roller Shutter 3 forum. Which module do you have so?

I'm not sure that I understanding your idea correctly... It's a staircase light with 2 toggle switches?? If yes, yea it make sense, and will work when you will use hardware switches, but when you starts controlling lights via z-wave it will end with mess and difficulty. It will be much better if you will use two FGS-213 switches. Provide L and N to the second switch with cables connected to Q1 and Q2 on your diagram and install it there. It will not be a wired connection between first and second switch (only power to second switch), because there is no more wires in the wall. When you install the first switch, make a association between them so they will work as one switch. It will be much easier to program scenes in controller afterwards..

Roller shutter not reporting blind position when it is "on the way". It wait until blind stops, and then sending value report to controller, therefore it's looks like delay, but it is normal. BTW. If my post was useful, you can give me a thanks on forum (just hover mouse over a heart icon in lower right corner of useful post and thanks button will show up). It will help other users to find an answer for similar to yours issues....

Hi again. You need to meet following requirements: 1. You need to have an extra power supply to UBS. It has to be 9-30V DC with low ripple noise. Bad quality power supply will cause UBS working incorrectly. This power supply you have to the bell is just a transformer and working with AC current. You cannot power UBS up with this. 2. You need to have a relay. Because outputs on UBS can handle op to 150mA of current, and yours doorbell eating more. It's doesn't really matter which relay you use, but have to meet this conditions: Coil voltage need to match voltage on your power supply to UBS, and coil current need to be below 150mA. (with an electronic door bell, no need for relay in mostly setups) 3. Wirring up. You need to just follow first diagram from the link. Just imagine that you placing a relay contacts instead of your push button. Yours relay has at least 4 (or 5) pins. 2 pins are coil (pin 86 and 85 on diagram), 3 others are contacts (common (30 on diagram), normally closed (87a) and normally open (87)). You need to figure out what is what, it depends on relay you use. - Connect relay contacts common and normally open to your doorbell INSTEAD of existing pushbutton, exact same terminals, it will be 0F and 1 on your diagram. - Coil pins connect to "+" from power supply and one of output terminal OUT2 from UBS. - Other terminal of OUT2 connect to GND ("-") of power supply. - Your push button need to be connected to UBS cables IN2 and GND - Finally, power supply "+" need to be connected to P cable on UBS and "-" to GND cable. When you will finish with hardware and power UBS up, you will need to change parameter of input type in UBS. Parameter no. 4 has to be changed to 0 (Normal Open)

Outputs Q1 is blinds up, and corresponding to switch input S1. Q2 is corresponding to S2 and means blinds down. When you swap outputs and you have a switch with arrows and it will acctivate blind in wrong direction, you have to swap s1 and s2 also. When you're done, make calibration againg, no parameters has to be changed. I've missed in previously post that we talking abaut ver. 3 shutter. There you can swap inputs and outputs in settings, without hardware changing. Take a look on parameter 24 and 25.