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Double Relay Switch Problem


Riggers

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Hi

 

I have the FGS-222  which I use with Smartthings. I have a centre light and downlights connected to it. I have a problem whereby the Downlights sticks and stays on and neither operating a switch or using the smart things app seems to do anything. There is a constant voltage on the connection.

 

I have tried swapping around the Q1 and Q2 to see if it made a difference, but no, the downlights still stick on.  The downlights operated by a switch will work for a while and then randomly stick. I have also tried swapping S1 and S2 to rule out the switch and also disconnecting the switch and controlling with the app to see if it would make a difference.

 

I have tried eliminating the relay and just using a switch and the downlights work fine so as far as I can tell the issue is the relay. I believe it is all cabled correctly as it works for a period and then gets stuck. 

 

Can anyone help as I'm running out of options? I can draw out the circuit if required.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have a very similar problem using the FGS-223 double switch 2.

I'm using it with 4x12W LED downlights on 1st channel and 3xLED bulb pendant lights 2nd channel. It worked fine for a while but now the 2nd channel gets stuck on and wont turn off at all - not with controller and not using the wall switch. Tried changing the channels over and the same channel got suck on with different lights.

It's been suggested that the in-rush might be to high, but I don't understand why that would affect 2nd channel only.

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6 hours ago, BradyzNZ said:

I have a very similar problem using the FGS-223 double switch 2.

I'm using it with 4x12W LED downlights on 1st channel and 3xLED bulb pendant lights 2nd channel. It worked fine for a while but now the 2nd channel gets stuck on and wont turn off at all - not with controller and not using the wall switch. Tried changing the channels over and the same channel got suck on with different lights.

It's been suggested that the in-rush might be to high, but I don't understand why that would affect 2nd channel only.

 

Sounds like that contact set is stuffed if you give the module a smack with a screw driver it may un weld and come good. It doesnt like the load your switching for some reason, has it switched a fault or maybe bad driver?

You  can slave a PDL 16A relay off it is the easiest fix. Ive only had one weld but it had a unrealistic load on it.

Edited by Jamie mccrostie
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  • 6 months later...

Same here. In the last few days the 2nd channel of my FGS-223 double switch 2 has been stuck on.

The 1st channel still works perfectly.

The 2nd channel only has 9W load to some LED stair lights which go on automatically every night.

 

I tried power cycle and resetting to default settings.

Maybe a known hardware issue?

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Please try what @Jamie mccrostie suggested.

 

If you want some background plus possible solutions, I recommend this old topic (started and maintained by me)

 

 

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15 minutes ago, petergebruers said:

Please try what @Jamie mccrostie suggested.

 

If you want some background plus possible solutions, I recommend this old topic (started and maintained by me)

 

 

 

Thanks Peter!

Annoyingly, that didnt come up in my search :-(

I agree and after some quick research on Mr Google I came to the same conclusion.

Be wary of small and/or cheap switch mode power supplies!

8 minutes ago, earto said:

I just had the same issue with the 2nd channel of my FGS-223 being stuck on after months of no problems switching my 9W LED stair lights.

I tried power cycling the unit and messing with settings including a re-initialise.

Finally out of desperation, a sharp tap on the back of the unit released the relay.

 

Initially, I didnt think the in-rush current for these LED lights would be a factor but now I'm not so sure.

There's only 3x 3W LED lights, each one has its own small driver.

After some research, it appears that smaller/cheaper drivers (switched mode power supplies) lack the inrush protection of higher quality drivers.

One article suggests that the inrush current of smaller drivers is typically 40-70A for 1-2 ms (at the worst time/highest point in the phase)!

Yep, that would do it!

Please login or register to see this link.

Time 5 milliseconds/division. Peak inrush is just more than 50amps for around 1.5milliseconds.
Blue - mains 100V/division:
Peak Yellow - input current 20amps/division

My LED stair lights were already in our house and look like first generation LED lights.

I could make a circuit to limit inrush current but I'll probably just replace them with better units.

 

In conclusion, be wary of cheap/small drivers for LED lights - especially multiple in the same circuit.

Please login or register to see this link.

 

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