Jump to content

Welcome to Smart Home Forum by FIBARO

Dear Guest,

 

as you can notice parts of Smart Home Forum by FIBARO is not available for you. You have to register in order to view all content and post in our community. Don't worry! Registration is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to sign up. Become a part of of Smart Home Forum by FIBARO by creating an account.

 

As a member you can:

  •     Start new topics and reply to others
  •     Follow topics and users to get email updates
  •     Get your own profile page and make new friends
  •     Send personal messages
  •     ... and learn a lot about our system!

 

Regards,

Smart Home Forum by FIBARO Team


(Mis)using RGBW as binary I/O system


kunoch
 Share

Recommended Posts

I do intend to use the RGBW controller in a battery driven device to tell me some status info and to interact with the device, using the outputs of the RGBW. Connection to the device will be fully isolated. All inputs and outputs thru signal relays, to ensure a proper decoupling and level shifting without interference and especially to keep the GND properly separated. creating the 24VDC from the battery using a voltage regulator.

When looking at the documentation, the thing I want to implement is like the schematics in figure 7 (

Please login or register to see this link.

), having 4 independent inputs and controlling outputs. I do not need any dimming functionality; it will be simply on and off all interaction with and from the RGBW with momentary contacts/relays. The outputs of the RGBW would drive a relay coil for a second or so to tell the device something (e.g. simulating a key press)

What worries me in the figure is that the Green and Blue output are not connected. Is this just for simplification purpose in the figure or are these two outputs in this mode not usable?

Anyone using a setup like this?

 

Edited by kunoch
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, kunoch said:

What worries me in the figure is that the Green and Blue output are not connected. Is this just for simplification purpose in the figure or are these two outputs in this mode not usable?

 

simplification

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Topic Author
  • OK, thanks, then I will give it a try and give my 'stupid' device a z-wave interface

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    23 minutes ago, kunoch said:

    OK, thanks, then I will give it a try and give my 'stupid' device a z-wave interface

    You mave want to consider this re battery use

     

    On 4/16/2017 at 8:04 PM, petergebruers said:

    I like your solution with the float switches. At room temperature, the RGBW consumes 15 - 20 mA (idle). If my math is correct, you need a car battery to run it for (only) a few months. Hmm - add solar power? The UBS has about the same power consumption, but it's an alternative thats less expensive and has 2 inputs...

     

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

  • Topic Author
  • Thanks for the hint, I already thought about that, but consider this as not really any problem.

    I am thinking about implementing this into a robomow 615, so the 20mA should not hurt much compared to the several amps of the mowing motors and the drive motors. Battery is a 28V LiFePo with several Ah capacity.

    but lets see how it all turns out......

    As an alternative I am also thinking about an old mobile phone being built in and use it as a wifi -bluetooth interface, but lets first make it simple and binary.

    I will for sure share schematics if it works as intended and also the necessary devices to control it. At least the mower status I am already able to cheat into a VD and some scenes:

     

    Edited by kunoch
    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    RGBW only gets you 4 channels that can be set individually to in or out mode. That's why the outputs are not connected on the diagram. So you can only do 2 in plus 2 out (or any combination of in and out). Also bear in mind this device consumes several mA (I think it's 10 - 15 mA @ 24 V at room temperature, I can look it up if you want an exact number) and it is always on and it becomes a part of your Z-Wave repeater network, so it's meant to stay in place.

     

    If you're an Arduino/Electronics DIY guy, have a look at this. (Note: I seem to have mentioned this device a few times lately... I own one and I like it ;-) I don't get any money for mentioning it!)

     

    Please login or register to see this link.

     

    It supports 10 channels so can do 4 in and 4 out as you requested.

     

    It also supports FLiRS mode, meaning it can run on batteries and still respond to commands. It drops power consumption to < 1 mA @ 3.3 V. But... at the moment the FLiRS mode is broken, they'll probably issue an update in June (their words, not mine).

     

    Edited by petergebruers
    Add FLiRS mode
    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    12 hours ago, Jamie mccrostie said:

     

    simplification

    sorry, got that one wrong

    12 hours ago, kunoch said:

    OK, thanks, then I will give it a try and give my 'stupid' device a z-wave interface

     

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    2 minutes ago, Jamie mccrostie said:

    sorry, got that one wrong

     

     

    No problem, the manual is far from clear on this subject. It is (somewhat, in a way) mentioned in the FAQ:

     

     "8. Can I control the four RGBW channels, at the same time use the inputs to monitor sensors and without input readings have direct effect on the RGBW output channels?
    No, it is not possible. When you configure module as RGBW it automatically configures inputs to control the outputs."

     

    So that only leaves IN/OUT mode as an alternative, and in that case you have 4 channels, each either input or output.

     

    Still another way to look at it is the explanation in the manual under parameters, "14. Inputs / Outputs configuration - relevant for main controllers other than Home Center 2 only". It shows a table with all the possible settings for four channels.

     

    I know, it's a pity, it would have been nice to get 4 in + 4 out...

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

  • Topic Author
  • @petergebruers: thanks for the clarifcation and hint to the z-uno device. As it is roughly the same cost as the RGBW but much more versatile, I will reconsider my previsous decision.

    I was reading up and down the RGBW 'manual' but was not really able to draw any conclusion, that's why I opened the thread here.

    I would have stripped the RGBW anyway down to the bones to integrate it with the relays, so the z-uno has a big pro, no unpacking needed ;-)

    The next challenge will then (only) be the template for the HCL or should I change to razpi and openhab at the same time as well? Who knows with the current update 'strategy' of Fibaro, even my HCL runs now without a crash for almost a week.

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    Just now, kunoch said:

    @petergebruers: thanks for the clarifcation and hint to the z-uno device. As it is roughly the same cost as the RGBW but much more versatile, I will reconsider my previsous decision.

    I was reading up and down the RGBW 'manual' but was not really able to draw any conclusion, that's why I opened the thread here.

    I would have stripped the RGBW anyway down to the bones to integrate it with the relays, so the z-uno has a big pro, no unpacking needed ;-)

    The next challenge will then (only) be the template for the HCL or should I change to razpi and openhab at the same time as well? Who knows with the current update 'strategy' of Fibaro, even my HCL runs now without a crash for almost a week.

     

    I've used the Z-Uno to make an RGBW light, that can also run some programs (like the programs on the RGBW - aurora, NYPD, ...). The RGBW part is easy, because the Z-Uno after inclusion will expose 4 standard dimmers for that. Then, to select the program, I exposed a 5th dimmer, and the value can be 0 for RGBW, 1 for program 1, 2 for program 2 and so on. But I don't really use the dimmer object in my HC, it's too difficult to exactly select 1 or 2 (could have used other values, like 1-10 is program one, 11 to 20 prog 2) - but on HC2 there is a solution ;-). I created a virtual device and use Lua code to set the program value. I think you can't do that on HCL, but in block code you can set a dimmer to an exact number, isn't it? I'm a block scene noob... In any case, you don't need a template.

     

    In your case, you'd probably just have 8 switches (doesn't matter if it's HC2, HCL or any other controller).

    Link to comment
    Share on other sites

    Join the conversation

    You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

    Guest
    Reply to this topic...

    ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

     Share

    ×
    ×
    • Create New...