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RolandK

Cannot get mt ds18b20 reporting temperature

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I added dallas tempsensor to my already existing binary sensor.

excluded the sensor and included the sensort again.

i would have expected a temperature sensor to be added next to the binary sensors. Unfortunately this did not happen.

anyone have experiences like this and has a solution ?

 

 

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Check again that they are properly connected, or include them again.
If you have purchased them made with cable then they should not be parasitic connected.
There should be a cable to each leg on the sensor.

 

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  • Thanks.....the wiring is indeed as showed in the picture. I just bought the temp sensor and connected the three legs to the fibaro binary sensor directly using the white cable for data, the brown for power and the blue for ground, so all as specced. Also replaced the temps sensor ( i bought three of them) and indeed excluded the binary sensor and included again. All without success.

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  • They are DS18B20 Temperature Sensors.......so not the parasite ones but the ones that need full wiring for vcc and gnd....

    Edited by RolandK

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    Check again that they are properly connected, exclude the board and include them again, very close to your HC.

     

    Do you have a picture of your setup?

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  • I used the BOTTOM VIEW for connecting the wires. Will double check again when I am home tonight....

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  • hmm..I double checked and all is correctly connected. but still no temp in HC2 after exclude/include.

    I will order a couple of new ones and start testing with another (spare) universal sensor. Will update once I have done this.

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  • Now have tested using all combination of new/old universal sensors and ds18b20 sensors. In the end I now know that the wiring had not been the issue. Eventhough I had bent the legs of the ds18b20 movement and friction must have caused interconnection between the legs. After I isolated each of the legs the issue went away.

    Just as a fyi: I am using this in my home-built sound sensor (so I can snap a finger, whistle or clap to turn on lights) using a Arduina nano, cheap sound sensor, Fibaro Universal Sensor and the ds18b20). Here is a picture:

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  • Peter,


    I indeed have done that. Until now the relative high price of the z-uno compared to a arduino nano/universal sensor combi has been the reason for my choice. Another

    reason is the fact that the z-uno only works with 3.3V sensors. Some of the modern ones come with 5V only.

     

    What is your experience with the z-uno.

     

    Regards,
    Roland

     

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    I am an absolute amateur but that does not stop me. I own two Z-Uno boards. I used one of them to repurpose a "garden light". See photo at the end of this topic. I replaced the LED with a 12 W RGBW LED so I can run and design my own random patterns. I plan to add a CO2 sensor MH-Z19 to that one so I can measure presence and quality of air. BTW I toy with other boards and micro-controllers too, it doesn't have to be a Z-Uno.

     

    The second one is used mainly to test sensors like BMP280 barometric sensor, MAX 44009 Lux sensor and variants. I am also developing a library for the ADS1115 16 bit ADC. Unfortunately I am very busy so progress is slow...

     

    I plan a third Z-Uno based project, it will be a "presence detector on steroids". I'm going to add 6 x PIR, 1 field disturbance detector (aka Doppler radar) and possibly some other sensor stuff.

     

    So far, I have only published two small (beginner) sketches:

     

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    I took the BH1750 sketch and improved the reporting range (from about 13000 to about 79000 Lux), add detection of I2C bus errors and add an algorithm to calculate reporting interval, getting good responsiveness without spamming the Z-Wave network.

     

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    I thought it would be cool to have my own battery powered LED light! Normally, you cannot control a battery device, because it sleeps between wake up intervals. But with Z-Uno firmware 2.1.1 this *is* possible, because it supports FLIRS = frequently listening routing slave! So I wrote this sketch, added lots of debugging over serial and lots of comments. As an LED I use the built-in white LED, so you can try this sketch without adding any hardware. Power consumption is really low. Idle current on my test board is about 100 uA at 3.6 V and around 70 uA at 3.0V. Side note: the Heat Controller aka "Fibaro Thermostat" is a FLiRS device.

     

    I do not see the 3V3 as too restrictive. But it is imperative not to inject more than 10 mA in a single pin. For development, I highly recommend 1K resistors in series with whatever you connect to the Z-Uno. If you want to translate high levels to the 3V3 input of the Z-Uno, the 74HC4050 is a hex buffer with 15 V over-voltage tolerant inputs. For I2C you can buy boards or just add 2 mosfets to level translate, see Philips AN10441for details. Or "AN10418 Level shifting I2C-bus buffers" if you need a fancier solution. I have several different solutions to translate low to high voltage signals. For instance, mosfet drivers like TC4420 or MCP1407 can translate to 5 - 18 V for line drivers or small loads. Old school HCT logic like 74HCT125 can help (4.5 - 5.5 volt with tristate output). You have a large choice of automative high side drivers, if you need more punch, but you'll have to check what their minimum operating voltage is (some start at 6 V). The BTS5090 operates from 5 - 28 V and can handle 3 A while it has only 0.1 R on-resistance. I think, in total, I have about 15 - 20 components that can qualify as "level shifter", so feel free to ask for more information.

     

    I do not work on breadboard, to avoid expensive mistakes. I bought a crimping tool, some connectors and lots of perfboard. 

     

    The top side looks OK to me:

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    Blue has 3V supply, white has 5V supply (with 5V tolerant inputs).

     

    The bottom side is a mess, as the design grows:

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    /monthly_2017_11/IMG_20171114_100307.jpg.e38dfee647a7433e19121e9ae61b2788.jpg" alt="IMG_20171114_100307.jpg.e38dfee647a7433e19121e9ae61b2788.jpg" />

     

    You do not see any resistors but they are there, they are of type 0402 so they look like a grain of sand. But you might be able to spot the 2 transistors used for I2C translation.

     

    And this is the garden LED:

    IMG_20171114_100435.jpg.d1ad7963514d261c8a84a8fac51c8663.jpg

     

    I hope I can inspire other users to make their own Z-Wave enabled devices... Or ESP8266 or ESP32 based devices, whatever! I'm 50 year olds so I've seen electronics shrink from tubes to transistors on micro-controllers. The SMD world scared me, but electronics is not dead. Lots of boards that break out tiny SMD (you know, 20 pins on a 1 x 1 mm square) to the ubiquitous 2.54 mm standard. When I restarted my electronics hobby about 1 year ago, I did not find the courage to post any photo. Maybe, one day, I'll order some custom PCBs... I did that when I was young, but I often thought the process of drawing and routing takes as long as building a prototype and is inflexible...

     

    This post may seem irrelevant to Fibaro and maybe it is, but in the end it helps you understand Z-Wave and you'll have to build your VDs and scenes to interface with your creation... So, yeah, maybe relevant, maybe not... I'll shut up now ;-)

     

     

     

     

     

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  • Peter,

     

    This just is great. Nice projects ! And the electronics just look nice as well.

    You inspired me to go for a z-uno solution, just to see what it will give me:-) Just hooking up multiple sensors or actors is the big benefit in my opinion for now.

    Will keep you posted.

     

    Once you have done the presence sensor on steroids I would be interested to hear the results. I did not get any further than using a sonar sensor to protect my staircase, but your idea sounds far more advanced. Nice !

     

    Roland 

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    @

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    Where buy you the DS18B20?

    I have also problem to connect this temperature sensor with a Fibaro doorsensor.

    Includ and exclude few times nothing helps, so many times that my HC2 crashed yesterday and must restore a backup:-(

     

    I bought a few of this sensor (7Q-Tek | 18B20 | 1627C02) bij dx.com and seems the same sensor.

    Maybe the different from fibaro resellers.

    I don't try again to include with this sensor.....

     

    Twan

     

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  • Twan,

     

    I bought them online at : 

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    , this is a Netherlands based webshop.

     

    Regards,

    Roland

     

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