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FGBHS-213 (Single Switch) installation issue


ChrisKal

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Hi all,

 

I'm having issue installing my brand new Single Switch. My house is very recent and electric installation follows strict EU rules, so it's pretty easy to find all required wires.

I removed the previous switch from the wall that had 2 wires in it (L which is red, and Q which is orange'ish). I tested the red one and confirmed it has power.

I have a plug just bellow my switch and took Neutral (Blue) from it.

I connected N/Q/L to my Single Switch (not the other L and S1 yet, I wanted to test the device before), and flipped the power on. It immediately switched off at multiple locations in the house (from the circuit breaker).

 

Any idea?

Can the device be tested with only N and L connected (no Q, S1, S2)?

 

Thanks,

 

Note: I already installed 3 Fibaro roller shutter without any issue whatsoever.

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31 minutes ago, ChrisKal said:

Hi all,

 

I'm having issue installing my brand new Single Switch. My house is very recent and electric installation follows strict EU rules, so it's pretty easy to find all required wires.

I removed the previous switch from the wall that had 2 wires in it (L which is red, and Q which is orange'ish). I tested the red one and confirmed it has power.

I have a plug just bellow my switch and took Neutral (Blue) from it.

I connected N/Q/L to my Single Switch (not the other L and S1 yet, I wanted to test the device before), and flipped the power on. It immediately switched off at multiple locations in the house (from the circuit breaker).

 

Any idea?

Can the device be tested with only N and L connected (no Q, S1, S2)?

 

Thanks,

 

Note: I already installed 3 Fibaro roller shutter without any issue whatsoever.

Your power plugs probably  is protected by a different RCD than your lights at the switch board. You cant just steal a neutral if this is the case.

You need a electrician .

Stealing  neutrals from other circuits is not good practice.

Edited by Jamie mccrostie
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  • Oh yes you're right, they are 2 different circuits.

    Then I'm screwed, because I don't want to tear down an entire portion of the wall to find the light's Neutral. I remember it being at the opposite side of the room.

    Thanks anyway, I guess I'll have to return the switch to my supplier.

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    14 minutes ago, ChrisKal said:

    Oh yes you're right, they are 2 different circuits.

    Then I'm screwed, because I don't want to tear down an entire portion of the wall to find the light's Neutral. I remember it being at the opposite side of the room.

    Thanks anyway, I guess I'll have to return the switch to my supplier.

    Or depending on what you are trying to switch, use a dimmer2

    which can be used without a neutral and can be set not to dimm if the load doesnt .

    Edited by Jamie mccrostie
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  • I'm not sure the Dimmer2 would help me in this case, maybe I'm wrong.

     

    I want to control a non-dimmable light either by radio or using the wall switch. But now in my case I want the radio device to work without requiring the Neutral wire.

    I thought the Dimmer2 requires Neutral in case it's used with a non-dimmable light, right?

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    7 hours ago, ChrisKal said:

    I'm not sure the Dimmer2 would help me in this case, maybe I'm wrong.

     

    I want to control a non-dimmable light either by radio or using the wall switch. But now in my case I want the radio device to work without requiring the Neutral wire.

    I thought the Dimmer2 requires Neutral in case it's used with a non-dimmable light, right?

     

    Ive never used one without neutral.

    I wasnt aware it needed a neutral with non dimming load

     

     

    Without dimming function it may work with:

    • compact fluorescent CFL tube lamps with electronic ballast
    • fluorescent tube lamps with electronic ballast
    • LED bulbs (power factor > 0.7)
    • supported light sources (power factor > 0.5) with minimal power of 5VA using FIBARO Bypass 2 (depending on the type of load)

    Recommended values of power for supported loads:

    Supported load types 220-240V~
    Resistive loads
    Conventional incandescent and halogen light sources
    50-250W
    Resistive-capacitive loads
    Fluorescent tube lamp (compact / with electronic ballast), electronic transformer, LED
    50-200VA
    Resistive-inductive loads
    Ferromagnetic transformers
    50-220VA

     

    Please login or register to see this link.

    This mode is necessary while connecting non-dimmable light sources. Setting this parameter to 1 automatically ignores brightening/dimming time settings. Forced auto-calibration will set this parameter’s value to 2.

     

    Available settings:
    0 – on/off mode disabled (dimming is possible)
    1 – on/off mode enabled (dimming is not possible)
    2 – mode selected automatically
    Default setting: 2
    Parameter size: 1 [byte]

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    • 5 weeks later...
    On ‎5‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 10:57 AM, ChrisKal said:

    Oh yes you're right, they are 2 different circuits.

    Then I'm screwed, because I don't want to tear down an entire portion of the wall to find the light's Neutral. I remember it being at the opposite side of the room.

    Thanks anyway, I guess I'll have to return the switch to my supplier.

     

    My plugs are luckily on the same circuit so i could just steal the neutral from the plug. works perfect!

     

    Another option is to put the switch in the ceiling !! you should have all wires there. 
    for me (see other topic "missing wires") that didn't work as the hole there was way to full with wires.

     

     

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