FGBS01 + keypad: Help for connection and wiring

[Nicfur 0]

Hello,

 

I started to install a rfid keyboard with a FGBS01 to make a keyboard for the alarm.
 
I installed, wired and configured everything, but.... it doesn't work.After 2 days of tearing my hair out, I came for help ?

I suspect an error in my cabling that is below:

> Drawing A

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My objective is
- use the bell button to include it in an arming scene
- use the code to disarm.

 

 But here it is, when I set the IN1 input to Binary NC (or NO for that matter) it doesn't detect a change of state.

And at the doorbell I have almost nothing that passes (0,6V ????)

So I've revised my wiring and I'm thinking of doing this, but I hesitate between these two solutions:

 

> Drawing B1

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or

> Drawing B2

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Is either of these two solutions good? 

 

Anyway, I think my wiring is not good. And by dint of trying everything, I changed the configuration in the HCL 20 times.

You will have understood it, I am lost, and by dint of trying everything that was going through my head I am completely in the fog now.

 

 

Thank you for your help

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Nicfur

[morpheus75 76]

on a lot of these the bell contacts can be wired directly into a Smart Implant.

however when the code is entered it send a pulse signal which has usuaally 12v dc so that needs to wired into a small electonic 12v dc relay. the contacts of the relay then is connected to the other input sensor wires of the smart implant.

each keypad varies and wiring varies. some have +ve trigger and some have -ve triggers.

 

[Nicfur 0]

Hello

Thank you for the answer...
But I don't understand the way the doorbell button is wired.

For the opening signal, this is what I tried in the 1st Schema with the door power relay, but it doesn't work. The current is not fully open or closed (depending on whether I go out on NC or NO).

One of my other two schematics is not good? 

[morpheus75 76]

the 2nd drawing showing the Bell contacts wired into GROUND and IN1 is fine.. that will trigger the Smart Implant when the BELL button is pushed.

 

The OFF command. 

without seeing the proper wiring diaram and based on description the DOOR OPEN and DOOR GND on the keypad sends the signal for the door to unlock. this most likely be 12v. wire these two terminals into a normal 12v dc relay. then see if the relay activates/deactivates when the correct code/tag is used.

if yes then wire the smart implant GND and IN2 into the COM, NO/NC as required.

[Nicfur 0]

Thank you, 
Reading what you say about the doorbell, does this mean that in the IN1 and IN2 inputs you have to connect the terminals - as in the 2nd drawing (and not the + terminals as in the 3rd drawing)? 

 

Otherwise the DOOR Open and DOOR GND connections of the keypad are inputs for a push button that baypasses the code to act on the LOCK terminals.

[morpheus75 76]

ignore the + and - for the bell. they are volt free contacts.

also the smart implant termonals IN1 and IN2 are also volt free contacts to GND.

the only correct drawing is the 2nd drawing showing the bell contacts connecting to IN2.

the DOOR terminals is an assumption i have made. i need to see the actual wiring diagram of the unit eg

see diagram below:

on this model this is how i connected and it all works

Bell_A to IN1

Bell_B to blue smart implant

+12v to 12v dc power

GND to negative of dc power

COM to negative of power supply

BLUE to the coil terminal of a small 12vdc relay (see pic)

then the other coil terminal of small relay to +12vdc of power supply.

on the small 12vdc relay i connected BLUE of smart implant to COM and IN2 to the NO terminal.

when the code is entered correctly the keypad provides a switch negative which activates your small 12vdc relay and therefore the contacts on the relay connect sending a signal to the smart implant.

 

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[Nicfur 0]

To be sure, when you talk about the 2nd drawing, it's the first of the two new ones? (and thus the 2nd in total) or the 2nd of the two new ones ? 

I'll modify the original post to name them, it'll be easier (with Drawing A, Drawing B1 and Drawing B2).

Otherwise here is the keypad instructions:

 

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Thank you for your help

 

 

 

Edited September 29, 2020 by Nicfur

[morpheus75 76]

hi

yes i was talking about the first of the new ones!

but here is your wiring:

 

brown and green to IN1 and BLUE wires of smart implant. that is your bell signal sorted

power is usual +12vd Red and negative to black

White and Yellow connect to a relay coil as shown in previous post. then connect the IN2 and blue wires to the COM and NO terminals of that relay to get your second signal

[Nicfur 0]

Hi, 

I don't quite understand your explanation. 
Is it possible that you forgot to put a drawing? 
 

[morpheus75 76]

drawing is as above. what i am saying is that you cannot connect the smart implant directly to the LOCK terminals of the keypad. you need an extra compnent.

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[Nicfur 0]

I'm sorry but I don't understand what you're telling me with the cable colors you're telling me. 

 

I understand that you have to use a relay, but this is the assembly I did at the beginning of drawing A, I used the relay which is in the door control box (which also provides the power supply).
But with this configuration, the smart implant does not detect any change of state.

 

Sorry, I feel like I'm asking stupid questions... But you probably understand why I need help.

[Martin_N 146]

@Nicfur

I can only recommend separating the Bell output from the Smart Implant with a relay. Connect the relay clamp directly to the Bell output (brown and green from the reader). Then use the dry contact of this relay (NO C) to the Smart Implant.
From this Bell output goes straight to voltage and I think it will be - pole permanently on gnd and will be active + pole. Since you activate the SI input by connecting to GND, it would not work. Really use relays for separation.

 

 

Edit:

I will add.
Your picture A is actually right. But:
1) connect GND and COM terminal to the source (left part).
This will set it to the Disarm state. I recommend connecting the types of wires from the NC to the NO terminal (during the action it pulses)
2) insert between Bell + and Bell- winding of the relay coil, according to the previous notes.
This will set the Arm state.

Edited September 29, 2020 by Martin_N

[Nicfur 0]

Hi,

 

Following your comments I made a new drawing. 
Is it good? 

 

I'm not sure I understood the sentence:

"1) connect GND and COM terminal to the source (left part).
This will set it to the Disarm state. I recommend connecting the types of wires from the NC to the NO terminal (during the action it pulses)"

 

> Drawing C

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[Martin_N 146]

@Nicfur

 

Oh my God..
Maybe it's the language barrier. English is not my native language.
You obviously don't know what you're doing and we try our best to help you before you hurt yourself or the device
I'm sending two versions. The first assumes that there is a potential-free contact of the NO / NC relay on the source (power supply). If so (when you switch PUSH to GND-, the relay should click), the COM and NO terminals will close. Measure whether there is any voltage at the output. Then you can use this version of V1.

The second version (V2) is similar, however it uses another external relay and omits it on the power supply (in case it would not switch or would provide some voltage)

You can use a relay such as type M4-12H or similar.

eM.

 

V1

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Edited September 29, 2020 by Martin_N

[Martin_N 146]

More attention..
You must set the inputs to behave pulse. (It must respond to the leading edge of the pulse provided by the relay from the keypad / power supply).

[Nicfur 0]

Hi,

 

English is not my mother tongue either... That shouldn't help. 

 

Thanks a lot for the drawings, it's much clearer that way. I will order M4-12H modules and follow your assembly. 

Thank you for your help and patience, indeed I don't master well, but it's by asking that you learn

 

I understood that it was necessary to go through relays

 

Basically, I thought I had to put the smart implant in the circuit (like a multimeter) (as shown here

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That's probably what misled me. 

[Martin_N 146]

5 hours ago, Nicfur said:

Basically, I thought I had to put the smart implant in the circuit (like a multimeter) (as shown here

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That's probably what misled me. 

Yes I understand.
After all, we both wrote it here (Morpheus and I).
It depends on how internally the reader is connected. Which voltage (polarity) is firmly connected to the source and which it switches. It was not entirely clear from your manual. Then it's true ... I'm not sure = I'll measure it. I want to be sure and safe = I will separate it with a relay.

This is clear with the ORNO connection. + is directly connected, in case of alarm it is active - (ALARM -). When opened, it is active - (L-). The connection will really work here. In your case, it's controversial, and if you're not sure what's connected ... see above.

 

ORNO:

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[Nicfur 0]

Okay, thank you very much. 

 

I understand the difficulty, for lack of certainty, it is better to use relays. 
I'll do that, I've already ordered the relays. 

 

To let me learn, can you tell me what I should measure to know how the reader is connected internally. To better understand for the future