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FGBS-222 with DS18B20 reports random temperature spikes on HomeSeer


eegz

Question

When I connect an FGBS-222 with a DS18B20 to my HomeSeer 3 software running on a ZeeS2 device, the temperature reads great (within a degree of other devices), but if I leave it for a few hours and check again, it reads a wildly higher value (current temp is around 67F and it reports 83F-88F).

If I wait a while and check again it is back to the right value and back and forth.

 

To narrow down the issue I've tried:
- 2 different power sources: 9v @ 9mAh & 12v @ 2.1A - 2 different FGBS-222 units (1 from Amazon, 1 from Newegg)
- 2 different temperature probes (Amazon and Newegg again, look the same but have different colored wires)
- stripped extra wire to get a secure connection (power -> FGBS-222 -> DS18B20) and taped up
- placed indoors in the corner of a room to prevent disturbance

 

Has anyone else seen something like this?

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I have an FGBS-001 with 4 sensors that sometimes causes spikes in the temperature curve. With many tips and tricks I have tried to eliminate them, but have not succeeded.
I also had these problems on a Raspberry Pi with a 1-wire system. There I managed to eliminate the spikes by entering some sleep commands that stabilized measurement and writing to the database.

I think there are similar problems with the FGBS module, but here the measurement speed is controlled by the controller which I can not influence.

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Are you certain that the devices are indeed DS18B20's, and not clones? I had to reorder mine as the first ones were counterfeit (Banggood), but the DigiKey ones are genuine.  See:

 

 

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  • Thanks for the reference Tim__.

    I bought DS18B20's from 3 different sources, but didn't have any idea who carried quality stuff.

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    On 11/15/2020 at 3:22 AM, eegz said:

    Has anyone else seen something like this?

     

    Have this problem with a UBS sensor.

    Dit had a snif with my zniffer and i noticed the UBS was floading the network.

    After some try and error I set the

    minmal change from 0.5 to 2.0 degrees.

    periodical reports to 200 sec.

     

    If this is the cause I don;t know, but the sensor is not floading the network anymore, so lets see what happens the couple of days/weeks

     

     

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  • Thanks Flash,

     

    I can try the same.  Look forward to hearing if it fixes for you.

    In the meantime, I bought some new, much more expensive DS18B20 probes from Adafruit (hopefully a more reliable source than Amazon and Newegg).  Still waiting for them to arrive.

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    11 hours ago, eegz said:

    Look forward to hearing if it fixes for you

     

    Still stable.

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  • Got new much more expensive Maxim probes from Adafruit.

     

    Trying with both FGBS-222 units got the same result as the previous probes.  Correct temp, then sudden spikes into the 80's at random times.

    Gave Flash's settings a try, but seemed to get same result.

     

    Anyone know of a way to test the FGBS-222 readings on it's own without an automation controller?  

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  • Both FGBS-222's are running with their own DS18B20 and power supply.

    One supplies 9v @ 9mA, the other is 12v @ 1.3A.

    The FGBS-222 gives a broad input voltage range so wanted to have some coverage.

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    I'd be interested if you ever come up with a solution to this.

     

    I had a similar issue for over 5 years with the Fibaro UBS, except my spikes were to well over 50C,  I tried different power supplies, but no help. 

     

    I then moved to the FGBS-222 (Smart Implant) with the EXACT same power supplies and after spending hundreds of £s (on my electrician) replacing DS18B20 temp sensors, I found ones that worked and it seems that the spikes have gone away.

     

    What did I learn...

    - 2x DS18B20 probes per Smart Implant = Good

    - 3x DS18B20 probes per Smart Implant = Sometimes hardware failure on start-up, sometimes Good

    - 4x DS18B20 probes per Smart Implant = Constant hardware failure on start-up

     

    As for power supplies, I still have no idea what constitutes a good power supply vs a bad one.

    As for DS81B20 probes, I still have no idea what constitutes a good probe vs a bad one.

     

    Edited by alex88
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  • Unfortunately the solution is beginning to look like returning the product.

     

    No idea how to pick up temperatures from various sources (pool, outdoor, etc) without the FGBS-222, but if it doesn't work it doesn't work.

     

    Not sure if it's Fibaro or Homeseer, but doesn't matter if they won't cooperate with each other or can't help.

     

    If some success does happen, I'll be sure to post the story.

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    58 minutes ago, eegz said:

    No idea how to pick up temperatures from various sources (pool, outdoor, etc) without the FGBS-222,

    You could use the FGRGBW-442 RGBW-2 controller with analog inputs. Very sorry to hear its not working properly.

    Maybe you could purchase somewhere a cheap HCL,to test you're FGBS-222, also handy for firmware updates.

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    In a well-functioning 1-wire network, the different sensors must be connected with different cable lengths.

    If all the sensors have the same cable length, conflicts can arise when the different sensors are called.

     

    In addition, the total cable length should not exceed 30 m. It is not possible to connect 4 sensors that all have 30 m of cable.
    The best solution is to connect the sensors along a "main cable" along it with as short a cable as possible. As the picture in the manual shows.

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    On 12/3/2020 at 9:22 PM, RH_Dreambox said:

    In a well-functioning 1-wire network, the different sensors must be connected with different cable lengths.

    If all the sensors have the same cable length, conflicts can arise when the different sensors are called.

     

    This is interesting, I was under the impression that the cable lengths should be the same for all the sensors...

     

     

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  • Thanks Flash, I wasn't aware of the analog inputs on the FGRGBW-442.  Was actually going to purchase an FGRGBW-441 to see if I could control an LED strip (not sure what the difference is between that and the FGRGBW-442).

    I'm not sure what an HCL is.

     

    Thanks RH_Dreambox for the info, that's good to know. In this case, I just have one sensor on each device and they exhibit the same behavior whether they are both on or just one.  The wires came attached to the sensors and are less than 3 feet long.

    Edited by eegz
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    6 hours ago, eegz said:

    I'm not sure what an HCL is.

    Home Center Lite

    Please login or register to see this link.

     

    FGRGBW-441 Zwave

    FGRGBW-442 Zwave Plus.

    Maybe some other minor changes

    Edited by Flash
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    Dear colleagues ... I will try to tell you some interesting tips from using a 1-Wire device (based on Arduino constructions).
    The basic operating voltage of DS18B20 thermometers is 3 - 5.5V.
    From the SI manual - While the use of pull up resistors is described for analog inputs in SI, there is no mention of DS18B20 (1-Wire bus).


    Personally, I would recommend adding a 2k2 (1k) resistor for the sensor between VDD (pin 3) and DQ (pin 2) - for the Smart Implant it is for the wires between SP (brown) and SD (white) - but the resistor is still only for the sensor.
    If a 5V supply is used, the pull up is between 4.7k - 10k depending on the line losses.
    Another problematic thing may be that the Smart Implant provides 3.3V for 1-Wire power. The lower limit for DS18B20 is 3V.
    Further note from the datasheet: Logic-low voltages are specified at a sink current of 4mA. And that is V I/O = 0,4V.
    It all points to an underestimated design for powering a 1-Wire bus.
    If due to the ripple of the source there is a fluctuation in the supply voltage (who knows how the internal voltage stabilization is done) and to this is added a loss on the line or further interference => the problem is caused.
    For a short time, telegrams are read incorrectly from the temperature sensor.
    I haven't tried it yet, it's only on the level of theory. Personally, I would include my own 5V power supply (stabilized) in the circuit. This must be connected to the GND of the SI power supply. Connect the positive pole of the source to the VDD temperature sensor (pin 3).
    Only the DQ to SD data cable will be connected to the SI. GND sources SI, GND thermometer and GND 5V sources will be connected.

    eM.

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  • On 12/3/2020 at 12:38 AM, Flash said:

    You could use the FGRGBW-442 RGBW-2 controller with analog inputs. Very sorry to hear its not working properly.

    Maybe you could purchase somewhere a cheap HCL,to test you're FGBS-222, also handy for firmware updates.

     

    I finally got hold of a FGRGBW-442 controller.

    The power on this is 15v, could you suggest the best way to convert it to the 3.5/5v that the DS18B20 needs?
    Looking it up, I've seen
     - 2 resistor method
     -  Step down regulators

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