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Garage opener not functioning correctly all the time


fdsjkl

Question

I have 2 x smart implant on 2 x garage door. They are both on 12v 2a power supply and only output 1 to garage opener.

They work 80% of the time as expected. Other times, they would open the door half way and the door would stop. Observing on/off state of output 1, they seem to stay ON much longer than the set parameter 156 of 1s(tried 0.1s and 0.4s no difference) when malfunctioning.

All other setting apart from 156 are default, tried 9v power supply with same result.

Any idea why?

 

I had single relay switches( FGS-213)on the 2 openers before that worked flawlessly for over a year, so it couldn't be signal issue right?

Both opener work fine the remote all the time.

Edited by fdsjkl
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Hi,
can't set any parameter on the motor, how long should the pulse be for the action? Or does it only react to the leading edge? I have encountered in practice that I need some motors up to 2s pulse.
I still have a question. Are you powered together for both SIs or separately?
I assume that you have the "disconnected" inputs from the output and set the pulse mode.

eM.

 

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  • 13 minutes ago, Martin_N said:

    Hi,
    can't set any parameter on the motor, how long should the pulse be for the action? Or does it only react to the leading edge? I have encountered in practice that I need some motors up to 2s pulse.
    I still have a question. Are you powered together for both SIs or separately?
    I assume that you have the "disconnected" inputs from the output and set the pulse mode.

    eM.

     

    When the same openers were wired to Single Relay, pulse were set to 1s, never had issue. 

    They are powered separately, and I've tried 9v-30v power supply.

     By disconnect input from output, do you mean "control protection"? I've tried both on/off, no difference.

    It really seems like signal issue at this stage, unless there's other explanation for why "on" state would stay on for longer than specified 1s.

     

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    Yes, I mean "control protection".
    Yesterday I did some experiments and I think that the SI control logic is a bit shrouded in mystery with elements of randomness ...

    I assume that you do not use the inputs and that they are insulated (especially each separately from each other).
    Now I will guess: There may be a problem in some disturbance during the voltage peak, when it gets into the SI de-activation pulse ..

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  • only 4 wires on SI, 2 for power supply and 2 for output. Also just tried setting auto off timer to 3s, problem persist. 

    I'll put the 240v single relay back on to see if there's any issue with it.

     

    update: put both of them on Single Relay, working fine now. Guess will have to return the SIs

    Edited by fdsjkl
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    Try disconnecting the inputs / outputs again.
    It is not necessary to define the input.
    I'm just asking out of interest, what type of 12V power supply do you have? Linear, switched, ... rectified by 1 half-wave or both half-waves ... It will not work on an AC power supply.
    Do you have SI installed at the engine?
    I keep thinking that this will be the cause of the interference that will occur when the engine starts. This can be induced on the input and generate the appropriate reactivation voltage (and if this occurs in the ON time, it will flip to OFF). Separate the input / output as shown.

    eM.

     

    P.S .: input does not need to be defined

     

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  • I did toggle local protection on/off a couple of times.

    Power supplies I've tried are all DC, but not sure what type they are, 2 of them are those with adjustable range of 3v-12v you get on Amazon/eBay, the other is from an old camera charger.

    SI were installed on the motor directly.

    I did try output2 which is plugged into nothing, turns off automatically fine. Also, every time it malfunctions, the gate stops at the same position. So I think you are most likely right, either incompatible power supply or interference from the motor.

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    So try complete trivia. Put the SI out of the engine compartment, but use the same source as before. See how SI will react.
     When it's good, it's clear that it's engine interference. It will be enough to keep at least 20cm gap between the motor, SI and source.
    I'll give you one more tip, which sometimes helps me in "weird" cases where I hunt "ghosts" ..
    I sometimes "gut" coils on ferrite cores from old electronic devices. In case of communication problems, unexpected behavior of the device, I will then use the connection of wires using a small trick, see the picture. Therefore, I recommend winding the wires that you connect to OUT1 and at the same time the SI power wires in a similar way. To top it up, twist the SI supply wires (red + blue).

     

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    In your case, it will definitely want to keep the in / out disconnection according to the previous post.

    Give it a try and write the result to see if any of it helped.
    Follow the steps step by step so that you can identify the source of the problem. Personally, I am interested in such things.

    Just for fun, what type of engines do you have?

     

    Good luck.. eM.

     

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  • This is the motor I have: 

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