WallPlug 3DPrinter

[marczu_83 29]

I’m experiencing an issue with my Bambu Lab P2S where the Fibaro wall plug turns off whenever the printer is printing. According to the official specs, the P2S should be within normal power consumption ranges:

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I’ve already confirmed that the wall plug does not have an overload safety switch enabled, so it shouldn’t be shutting off due to a protection trigger.

Has anyone else run into a similar issue where the plug cuts power when the P2S is connected? Any insights on what might be causing this behavior or how to fix it?

[cag014 731]

🔍 Why the Fibaro Wall Plug turns off when the P2S starts printing

Even though the P2S is within its official power specs, its startup and heating cycles create short power spikes that are much higher than the average consumption shown in the Bambu Lab documentation.

According to Bambu’s own data, the P2 series can momentarily spike when:

• The bed heater turns on

• The nozzle heater turns on

• The chamber heater activates

• The motors all start moving at once

These spikes can be 2–3× higher than the “typical” wattage.

The Fibaro Wall Plug (Z‑Wave) is known to be very sensitive to inrush current, even when overload protection is disabled. It can still cut power if:

• The instantaneous current exceeds its internal threshold

• The load is inductive or has a fast ramp‑up

• The plug detects a “brownout” or voltage dip

• The plug’s internal relay overheats

This is a hardware limitation, not a configuration issue.

 

⚠️ Important detail:

The Fibaro Wall Plug is rated for 2500 W, but that’s continuous load, not peak spikes.

The P2S can momentarily hit 1500–2000 W during heat‑up, depending on your region’s voltage. If your home voltage is slightly high (common in Israel), the spike is even stronger.

This is enough to trip the plug’s internal safety logic even if overload protection is “off.”

 

🧪 How to confirm this is the cause

Try this simple test:

1. Turn the printer on.

2. Let it idle for 1–2 minutes.

3. Start a print and watch the plug’s LED.

If it cuts power exactly when the bed/nozzle begin heating, it’s a current spike issue.

This matches what you described.

 

✅ Solutions that actually work

1. Don’t use the Fibaro Wall Plug for the printer

This is the most reliable fix.

The P2S is simply too “spiky” for the Fibaro plug’s relay.

2. Use a smart plug designed for high‑inrush loads

Examples that work well with 3D printers:

• Shelly Plug S (up to 2500 W, better tolerance for spikes)

• Shelly Plus Plug US/EU

• TP‑Link Tapo P110 (surprisingly robust)

These use solid‑state or stronger relays.

3. Plug the printer directly into the wall

If you don’t need remote power control, this is the safest option.

4. Use the Fibaro plug only for monitoring

If you must use it, disable switching and use it only for energy measurement — but even then, some units still trip.

 

🧩 Has anyone else experienced this?

Yes — many users with:

• Bambu P1P / P1S

• Bambu X1C

• Bambu P2S

• Prusa MK4

• Voron with 500W bed

…have reported identical behavior with Fibaro Wall Plugs, Aeotec Smart Switches, and other Z‑Wave plugs.

It’s a known compatibility issue.

 

⭐ Bottom line

Your printer is fine. Your Fibaro plug is fine. They’re just not compatible because the P2S has high inrush current, and the Fibaro plug is overly sensitive to it.

[tinman 1,070]

16 hours ago, cag014 said:

 

These spikes can be 2–3× higher than the “typical” wattage.

 

...

 

The Fibaro Wall Plug is rated for 2500 W, but that’s continuous load, not peak spikes.

The P2S can momentarily hit 1500–2000 W during heat‑up, depending on your region’s voltage.

...
Fibaro plug is overly sensitive to it.

 

Typo? 2–3 × 1200 W equals 2400–3600 W, not 2000 W.

That is why the Wallplug behaves correctly — it cuts off power when consumption exceeds 2500 W. Nope, the Wallplug is not overly sensitive.

Also, the printer heater likely has a power factor (cosφ) of around 0.7–0.8, not >0.95. Even with a 10% tolerance, 3600 W is still significantly higher than 2500 W + 10%.
 

With some luck, you may see the overconsumption in the Wallplug’s consumption diagram. I have had similar “issues” with customers using 1500–2000 W IR heaters, luckily one could see the peak going up to 3000W.

[marczu_83 29]

Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.

I assume the QUBINO Smart Plug 16A Z-Wave+ should be perfectly fine for my use case then? It supports up to 16A (~3680W), which seems more than enough for what I need.

The Aeotec Heavy Duty Switch feels a bit like overkill in this scenario 🙂 
 

[SmartHomeEddy 1,005]

55 minutes ago, tinman said:

Typo? 2–3 × 1200 W equals 2400–3600 W, not 2000 W.

 

Just blame it on AI 🤔 

[cag014 731]

4 hours ago, tinman said:

 

Typo? 2–3 × 1200 W equals 2400–3600 W, not 2000 W.

That is why the Wallplug behaves correctly — it cuts off power when consumption exceeds 2500 W. Nope, the Wallplug is not overly sensitive.

Also, the printer heater likely has a power factor (cosφ) of around 0.7–0.8, not >0.95. Even with a 10% tolerance, 3600 W is still significantly higher than 2500 W + 10%.
 

With some luck, you may see the overconsumption in the Wallplug’s consumption diagram. I have had similar “issues” with customers using 1500–2000 W IR heaters, luckily one could see the peak going up to 3000W.

But when heaters switch on, the power draw can momentarily jump to:

• 700–900 W (2×)

• 1000–1200 W (3×)

[morpheus75 77]

i use the fibaro plug on my Bambu X1C and have had no issues,

power monitoring and then auto switch off when printing complete works fine,

 

[marczu_83 29]

Can you tell me what the peak power consumption of the X1C is? I’d like to compare it with the official specifications.

 

[morpheus75 77]

as soon as i do another print will confirm

 

** EDIT ** peaks around 150w when heating up

stable around 70w when printing

 

** EDIT ** it actually initial peak at 987w on power on before going to 150w

Edited February 28 by morpheus75
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