Fibaro Universal Sensor + Aritech alarm system problem

[Guest miguel.araujo]

Hi guys,

I am trying to apply a Fibaro Universal Sensor to my intrusion detection system but with no sucess

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The problem is than when movement is detected on a motion detector the reaction is not to have a circuit opened or closed, instead what happens is that the motion sensor(s) make the voltage of the circuit change from approximately 6 volt to 12 volt and I do not know how to "detect this".

Is there a way to convert these two voltage levels into a 0 (zero) / 12 volt signal?

Thanks,

Miguel

[davedotnet 0]

Miguel,

What model of Aritech do you have ?

Dave

[Guest miguel.araujo]

Hi davedotnet,

I have an Aritech CS175.

Regards,

MA

[davedotnet 0]

I have an Aritech CS175.

Just for reference, I used the manual that I found

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. It indicates that the CS175 has no relay outputs, only open collector. (Relay outputs will always have 2 connectors associated, and open collectors only 1). The CS175 has two open collector outputs. The outputs esentially 'float' at a +ve voltage and will be driven low when activated, thus needing to be paired with a AUX+ connector/output (in your case)

To interface to the Fibaro Universal Sensor you're going to have to put a relay between the CS175 and the Fibaro Sensor. The sensor will need powering from the CS175 so use the COM and AUX+ (12V) to do that. The Fibaro sensor input (IN1) is also floating, and needs taking to GND (0V). I've attached a diagram. I extracted the details from the above document, specifically from section 20.2.2 for power levels, section 4.5 for board wiring/connector details, and section 9.1 about the open collector outputs.

The relay need only be very small, be 12V and must not draw more than 40ma. As an example, look at this

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and get something similar.

Hope this helps.

Dave

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[Guest miguel.araujo]

Hi davedotnet,

this makes totally sense

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/emoticons/default_smile.png" alt=":)" srcset="https://forum.fibaro.com/uploads/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> and in fact solves the problem in an elegant way.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

The only thing I will miss is the ability to "detect" in which area the breach happened but from an intrusion detection point of view it solves the problem and that's what really matters.

Kind regards,

Miguel

[davedotnet 0]

You're welcome. Let me know how it goes..

[Guest miguel.araujo]

Hi Dave,

I've tried to follow your instructions (and diagram) but I was not successful, although I am sure it is my fault as I now realize I missed a (probably) important part of it. Between the relay and the OUT1/AUX+ connections you have also placed a diode, right?

I missed that part and I am not sure it is causing the problem but the fact is that when the alarm fires there is no change in the potencial between the OUT1 and AUX+

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Is this the reason?

Kind regards,

Miguel

[davedotnet 0]

Miguel,

The diode is there to protect the circuitry. When you activate a relay/solenoid, the result is a lot of stored energy in the coil. When the power is pulled from the relay/solenoid, the stored energy needs to dissipate. The diode is there to help dissipate the energy from the coil and protect any electronics. I don't think the diode ommision is the cause of your problem although it would be desirable to have it in place at some point.

I think some back to basics is required in solving this and we need to get OUT1 to change. I'd be tempted to disconnect the relay, and use a meter to validate under what circumstances the voltage changes when probed between OUT1 and AUX+.

When the Open Collector OUT1 is not activated it will float and there should be no reading on the meter. When OUT1 is activated it will appear as GND/0V, so probing between that and AUX+ should show 12V.

Have you ever observed OUT1 changing under other conditions ? Are there any settings that disable/enable OUT1 from functioning?

[Guest miguel.araujo]

Miguel,

The diode is there to protect the circuitry. When you activate a relay/solenoid, the result is a lot of stored energy in the coil. When the power is pulled from the relay/solenoid, the stored energy needs to dissipate. The diode is there to help dissipate the energy from the coil and protect any electronics. I don't think the diode ommision is the cause of your problem although it would be desirable to have it in place at some point.

I think some back to basics is required in solving this and we need to get OUT1 to change. I'd be tempted to disconnect the relay, and use a meter to validate under what circumstances the voltage changes when probed between OUT1 and AUX+.

When the Open Collector OUT1 is not activated it will float and there should be no reading on the meter. When OUT1 is activated it will appear as GND/0V, so probing between that and AUX+ should show 12V.

Have you ever observed OUT1 changing under other conditions ? Are there any settings that disable/enable OUT1 from functioning?

Hi Dave,

it as been a while since we interacted last time about this... I have been lacking time to investigate further on this and my last action was to add a 12V lamp between OUT1 and AUX+ so that I can have my alarm box closed (and no tamper alarm going on) and to easily identify when OUT1 changes "state". The fact is that it doesn't change when the alarm gets triggered

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/emoticons/default_sad.png" alt=":(" srcset="https://forum.fibaro.com/uploads/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> I've been reading the alarm user manual in order to find any configuration that would change the behavior of OUT1 when the alarm fires, but with no success...

If I cannot progress the last option is to send Aritech guys an email and try to find what might be wrong as a trial and error approach will make me very unpopular in the neighborhood after firing the alarm so many times

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I will let you know how it goes.

Regards,

Miguel

[davedotnet 0]

I was just looking at the manual again and did notice that you have to permission OUT1 for each user (see Section 10.2.9 Assigning Authority Level), and it makes reference to Location 59 (on page 73) that determines what events trigger OUT1 (maybe there is a sensible default setting).

I don't have such a alarm so I'm only guessing by looking at the manual, and maybe a quick email to the manufacturers would be quicker.

Best of luck!