Binary sensor as switch

[apmadsen 0]

I've created a dimmer switch using a three-state button and a binary sensor. My problem is that the inputs cannot be specified as switches, just door/window/smoke-sensors etc., and that makes the controller recognize it as part of an alarm system.

I would like the option to select "switch" in the property 'Device kind' of the binary sensor. Also the switches (slaves) should not turn up in the web and mobile interfaces.

Is this possible?

- If you are wondering why I want to use the binary sensor as a switch, the answer is that we don't have high voltage three-state switches in Denmark, and I don't want to control dimming with a single button...

Anders

[JanJoh 1]

- If you are wondering why I want to use the binary sensor as a switch, the answer is that we don't have high voltage three-state switches in Denmark, and I don't want to control dimming with a single button...

Det finns visst

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Ok, enough of the non English, sorry.

I Think you should look for a switch used to control a markis (sun block), I dare to guarantee that you will find momentary switches for 240VAC without much problem.

[apmadsen 0]

There are momentary switches, but only two-state, which means that I would need to use two switches to control one dimmer, and these would take up all the space in the wall outlet - see image:

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With my solution, I can have two three-state switches to control two dimmers in one outlet - see image:

[Ulrik 0]

I use universal sensors as switches together with LK Svagstrømstryk (Danish lov voltage switch).

The retailer advised this solution.

But I cant get HC2 to recognize them as switches. This is a problem in "linked devices" but also when controlling rollorblinds, dimmers ect.

Would be nice to get that fixed in 4.0

Regards, Ulrik

[UrSv 6]

I'm not sure but couldn't you for instance fit a Schneider WDE002105 with springs on both sides (if it takes springs)? One dimmer behind the switch and the other somewhere else (i.e. behind connected wall outlet nearby or behind light outlet).

[apmadsen 0]

UrSv >>

Don't quite know the specs, but I doubt it will fit the standard frame, and that's a must...

Ulrik >>

You have to configure the binary sensor like this:

• 1. Activate scenes by setting parameter #14 to "ON".
  2. Set parameters #3+4 to "Normal Open".
  3. Create a scene for it like the code below (note that this script uses 19 as id for the sensor and 5 as id for the lamp - you need to change these)

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This script creates following behavior:

• Hold button#2 => Turn light on
  Tap button#2 => Dim up
  Tap button#1 => Dim down
  Hold button#1 => Turn light off
  

[UrSv 6]

But as far as I can see that doesn't solve the problem of controlling TWO dimmers with ONE double switch.

UrSv >>

Don't quite know the specs, but I doubt it will fit the standard frame, and that's a must...

It is for standard frame so I don't see why it wouldn't. It's all standard stuff.

[apmadsen 0]

But as far as I can see that doesn't solve the problem of controlling TWO dimmers with ONE double switch.

UrSv >>

Don't quite know the specs, but I doubt it will fit the standard frame, and that's a must...

It is for standard frame so I don't see why it wouldn't. It's all standard stuff.

The switches I use, allow for two * three-position switches in one outlet - see the image I posted...

[ Added: 2014-01-31, 12:03 ]

BTW, I was actually hoping that someone from the development department would read this request and take it into consideration - is this the right forum for this?

[UrSv 6]

The switches I use, allow for two * three-position switches in one outlet - see the image I posted...

Yes, I understood and posted a suggestion giving you exactly that.

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[htatton 0]

Hello:

Follow the approach mention on this link:

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The switch I bought from the UK as here in Czech I also could not found it.

Hope this help

Htatton

[apmadsen 0]

Ulrik >>

I just found out that the binary sensor is not supposed to be battery operated - how did you power it?

[Ulrik 0]

apmadsen >>

That's som empressive coding I look forward to trying out. Thanks a lot, it's highly appreciated.

I totaly concur - I would be nice, if HC2 clould recognize binary Sensors as switches, and it seems like a quite simple task for Fibaro?

I use a stabele power supply. This is the cheapest 230v - 12v I could find in Denmark:

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Do you have any problem with reaction time on the sensors?

In my experience they tend to be "asleepe": When not pressed for a long time, the first press have no effect - I often have to press twice before getting a reaction. From here in every thing works perfectly until next time, they haven't been pressed for a long time.

[apmadsen 0]

Ulrik >>

I want it to fit inside the wall outlet (indmuringsdaase) so It cannot fit - and I don't want to install cables from a central DIN inverter either.

A third thing is, that it actually isn't legal in DK to add 12V wiring to 240V installations, because it isn't properly insulated (StaerkstroemsBekendtgoerelsen says that each wire must be rated to insulate against the maximum voltage in each compartment).

However, after depleting 3 x 9V batteries, I tried to connect a regular springloaded switch, and it actually works quite nice: Tap the switch to turn on/off, and hold to dim up or down. Only drawback is that each successive dimming must be followed by a dimming in the other direction, eg. if you dim up by holding the switch, then the next time you hold the switch it will dim down and vice versa.

I still think that the binary sensor allows me to do some funny things, like turning on music and so on, and I'll keep messing with it...

[Ulrik 0]

apmadsen >>

I have no DIN inverter, just connected the the switch with the sensors, who are stowed away over the ceiling.

There is one or two types of cabel, witch legally can run together with 230V cables in the same PVC tube. I use IHC Link-10 NOPOVIC is rated as installation cable and expensive.

Danish wall outlets ... - didn't think they ever would become a problem until I started Z Wave

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