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Fibaro D/W sensor for 2 opening parts (left/right) of window


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Posted

Hello. My window has 2 opening parts - on the left side and on the right side. I want to use one Fibaro Door Window sensor with external magnet sensor to control the window state.

  • When either left or right part of the window is opened >>> the sensor must be breached (=opened).
    Otherwise (when both sides are closed) >>> the sensor must be safe (=closed).

I connected an external NC contact (normally closed contact, when magnet is attached) to the input of Door/Window sensor. It works, but in a bit different way. I get the sensor breached (opened) only when both sides of the window (= both sensors) opened.

But in case of burglary I expect device to breach when at least one of the sensors (one window part) is opened, not when both are opened.

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Posted

Is the gap too big for having this done with just one sensor? The sensor on first window and magnet to second? Easiest way to see, if any of the windows is open.

Posted
Is the gap too big for having this done with just one sensor? The sensor on first window and magnet to second? Easiest way to see, if any of the windows is open.

Ivan.ruban will have to speak for him self, but it looks almost like my Windows, and yes the gap is to wide. My window frames are of alluminum and I have been struggeling to come up With a solution as well, well that is a solution that looks good anyway...

Posted

You cannot have reed switch and fibaro magnet together... One or the other!

Posted

ivan.ruban,

The binary input is the same as magnet input. Please use additional Door/Window sensor.

Posted
ivan.ruban,

The binary input is the same as magnet input. Please use additional Door/Window sensor.

Understood, but two devices seems expensive and looks somewhat clumsy. I guess it sums up to that the wife doesn't think the house/smarthome looks to "smart" with all those smart add ons and gadgets sticked or glued on everywhere...

  • Topic Author
  • Posted
    The binary input is the same as magnet input. Please use additional Door/Window sensor.

    Thanks for explanation. I was afraid that somebody will write that... The parallel connection of reed and input explains my "AND" behaviour of two window parts.

    Ivan.ruban will have to speak for him self

    I tried speaking with myself but it didn't help.

    Please login or register to see this image.

    /emoticons/default_icon_sad.gif" alt=":-(" /> Actually this almost never helps. Nevertheless speaking in combination with magic and the moon phase helped to fix my Secure Thermostat (

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    )

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    /emoticons/default_icon_mrgreen.gif" alt=":mrgreen:" />

    ...but it looks almost like my Windows, and yes the gap is to wide. My window frames are of alluminum and I have been struggeling to come up With a solution as well, well that is a solution that looks good anyway...

    I think you and me are not the first trying to find the solution for 2 parts of one window. Buying 2 sensors is too expensive, I fully agree with 1152.

    Solution 1.

    It will actually work if I connect my external magnet in a series with internal reed. To do that I need to unsolder one contact of the reed from the Fibaro sensor board. It will work but I will loose the warranty directly. That is sad that Fibaro didn't think about possibilty of connection in series, not just parallel.

    Solution 2.

    I use one universal sensor connected to 2 windows in my two rooms. It works perfect and is cheap. And I can connect as many window parts / windows in series as I want. The disadvantage is of course cables that you need to have in this case.

    Is the gap too big for having this done with just one sensor? The sensor on first window and magnet to second? Easiest way to see, if any of the windows is open.

    Thanks rantta. It is a good solution. And I actually have a balcony door connected in this way. It is a double-door and works perfect in this way. The problem with the window is not only the gap but also construction. The window can aslo be opened "from the top" (like this:

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    ). So if I open both left and right sides of the window "from the top" - the magnet and D/W sensor will be in parallel adn thus the device will be safe.

    I guess it sums up to that the wife doesn't think the house/smarthome looks to "smart" with all those smart add ons and gadgets sticked or glued on everywhere...

    Thanks for that! I was laughing so much when read that.

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    /emoticons/default_icon_mrgreen.gif" alt=":mrgreen:" /> :mrgreen:

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    /emoticons/default_icon_mrgreen.gif" alt=":mrgreen:" />

    That is the true. My wife is actually also "not compatible" with Fibaro-based smart house.

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    /emoticons/default_icon_smile.gif" alt=":-)" /> And just recently 2 of my dimmers died almost immediately (see

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    ). So my wife wants to know why we don't have the light in some rooms in our "smart house". The explanation "I am waiting for a delivery of new dimmers and lamps of other model" does not work.

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    /emoticons/default_icon_mrgreen.gif" alt=":mrgreen:" />

    Posted
    it looks almost like my Windows, and yes the gap is to wide. My window frames are of alluminum and I have been struggeling to come up With a solution as well, well that is a solution that looks good anyway...

    On my own double window I planned to install plate or some kind of rig to narrow that gap down, if that will be a problem.

    But wit iban.ruban this is clearly not an option.

    With wife ... well, in every corner I have to think about WAF. So, I have my personal test lab at my work room, first alfa, then beta, and rolling out only finished solutions with minimal changes after that. No nagging, so far. Well, maybe some when I purchaced HC2, but shes warming up... slowly

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    /emoticons/default_icon_mrgreen.gif" alt=":mrgreen:" />

    She likes about automatic car's block heater, now she can either turn it up manually or just select the time to leave from home. Heater runs the amount of time that is needed. But slow changes, veeeeeeery slow.

  • Topic Author
  • Posted
    With wife ... well, in every corner I have to think about WAF. So, I have my personal test lab at my work room, first alfa, then beta, and rolling out only finished solutions with minimal changes after that. No nagging, so far. Well, maybe some when I purchaced HC2, but shes warming up... slowly

    Personal test lab sounds great. I don't have it yet because there is not much space at home. But in my plans, I will have it one day!

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    /emoticons/default_icon_wink.gif" alt=";-)" />

    Car heater sounds interesting - it is good to warm up the car in winter time before you come in. Do you mean the heater inside the car? What device do you use to switch the heater?

    By the way - I got a solution to my problem from support:

    Marcin Janicki replied:

    Dear Sir,

    The binary inputs is the same as magnet input. So the solution will be use two external sensor, which will connect in series. Now this sensors will connect to D/W Sensor input.

    Marcin is really genious. It is so simple solution. If I want to use one Fibaro D/W sensor - I just need to connect 2 external sensors in series. In this case I use an input of D/W sensor and don't use internal reed at all. Brilliant!

    2_ext_sensors.JPG

    Connection in series. Tested: OK.

    Basically D/W sensor is the same as universal sensor. The difference is D/W is battery operated and has just one input connected in parralel to reed. I guess it is almost the same board in these 2 devices.

    Posted
    Car heater sounds interesting - it is good to warm up the car in winter time before you come in. Do you mean the heater inside the car? What device do you use to switch the heater?

    There is two heaters. Blockheater warms up the engine by heating the coolant fluid.

    Inside the car is interior heater. Warming the inside of the car damps the moisture, which helps keeping the windows clear. It is also much more comfortable to have the car bit warmed up already, when there is -30°C outside. Brrr

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    /emoticons/default_icon_eek.gif" alt=":shock:" />

    The actual switching is done by Düwi On/Off switch (IP44).

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    There is also an battery charger, which keeps the battery in better shape when it's cold. Starting cold engine takes lots of power, and on cold weather the battery does not charge that much when driving.

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