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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi Guys,

I have a 12v 4.5A universal dimmer controlling a dimmable LED driver which provided power to about 9 metres of led tape (approx 48 watts which at 12 volts give a 4A load).

I can turn on the lights, dim them and turn them off, GREAT!!!!

However, I've noticed that after a period of time the lights come on at a low dimmed level but when I look at the status of the FGD-211 it is turned off. Turning the module on then off turns the led's off but after a while they turn back on again! Has anyone else experienced this? Is it a limitation of the module or could it be a faulty module?

The settings on the module are as follows

14 =1

19 = 1

20 = 132

Any help would be very much appreciated

thanks,

Fiona_p

Posted

Hello,

Can you explain more detailed, how you have conneted the circuit? In which place did you plug in the FGD-211 exactly?

Posted
Has anyone else experienced this? Is it a limitation of the module or could it be a faulty module?

If you are using a two wire (N and O connected) system, this is pretty common behaviour as the operating current of the FGD-211 flow through the connected load.

Posted

Are LEDs flashing or just litted a bit? About 1%-2%?

  • Topic Author
  • Posted

    Hey Guys,

    thanks for your replies, I'll answer them all as one!

    I have a three wire system, connections as follows

    L - Live

    N - Neutral

    O - Live dimmable feed to 240v - 12v 4.5A dimmable LED driver

    Sx - nc

    S2 - nc

    S1 - nc (the reason I'm not using either switch is because the dimmer is controlled by a PIR via a scene; pir triggered between 11pm and 6am = turn on lights 10% otherwise 100%)

    After a period of time the led's turn on at 1%-2% illumination but the controller indicates that the dimmer module is turned off.

    Someone suggested I try and put a Fibaro Bypass unit (FGB001) across the load, which I did this morning and (touch wood) the lights have not turned themselves on. I thought the Bypass unit was for loads that were below 25VA (the dimmer draws 48w) but obviously there is something I don't understand.

    From what I've explained and done, does this seem right?

    Cheers.

    Posted

    there will be a small leakage current, so what you could do is swap the wires that run from the dimmer to your driver.

  • Topic Author
  • Posted

    @stevenvd,

    not sure what you mean by swapping the wires over, how would this help?

    Posted

    well it can happen because of multiple reasons. This is really depening on the dimmer, relays and the type of driver.

    1. one of the wires is connected to your ground. and one is to the line, in your driver there is some electronics which also defines a line and a neutral. when these are not aligned, a small current can run through your driver. When swapping the line and neutral, they are connected right and there will not run a current.

    2. a very small current will still run to your driver and because of it's own internal capacitance it will create a virtual ground. this can be enough to have a LED glow.

    not sure if I explain it right but this is close to what happens

    Please login or register to see this image.

    /emoticons/default_wink.png" alt=";)" srcset="https://forum.fibaro.com/uploads/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

    I noticed the same when using a wallplug with the christmass LED lights. when switching the poles (switch the plug around) it is gone. Simply because the relays in this circuit only switches one wire and not both. therefor a small current can still run into the LED Lights. So it now switches the Line instead of the neutral.

    So bottom line, make sure that your Line is the current holding line and the one being dimmed/swichted.

    Please login or register to see this attachment.

  • Topic Author
  • Posted

    @stevenvd

    thank you so much for your in depth reply, I'm going away for a few days but will be returning on Monday whereupon I'll remove the bypass and swap the wires over on the transformer. I'll keep you posted as to whether it solves the problem (fingers crossed). This could explain why after repositioning and rewiring the transformer the problems started to happen but when I did a pre-wiring test I never saw a problem.

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