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HC2 operating temperature quite high ?


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Hi!

 

For several weeks I own a HC2 and now I am playing around a little bit in my workshop trying to learn LUA and the whole Z-Wave thing.

 

I noticed that the HC2 getts pretty warm, so I pimped it a little bit according to this (german) thread http://siio.de/board/thema/pimp-my-hc2
The HC2 is in a steelbox with slots for fresh air in top and bottom.

 

HC2_RasPi_4G.jpg

HC2_Kuehlung.jpg

I lifted up the two outer metal plates for about 5mm and removed the inner slot to get more air flow.

 

Now the HC2 temp is about 12 °C higher than the environment temperature, but is IMHO still too high (~ 40°C -- temp. probe is locatet on top of HC2 - take a look at 1st picture)

 

HC2_TEMPERATUR.png

 

 

TOP: HC2 temperature

 

Raumtemperatur.png

TOP: temperature of environment

 

 

Do you have similar experiences or maybe a solution ?

 

Any suggestions are appreciated :-D

 

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The only important spec is the temperature of the components... So if you want to do a scientific test, you'll have to glue a thermocouple to the processor. And see if all the adaptations make any difference. Unfortunately, the software doesn't give as access to the temp sensors of the board. I bet, if they were displayed, people wouldn't get as upset as they do now. Fibaro has said a few times over a few years, that the unit was designed to feel hot (lukewarm) to the touch, 40 degrees is OK. Sorry, don't have a reference available. It's a passive cooler and due to the aluminum, heat distribution is ver good. That is, in free air, in an enclosure you have to get rid of the 5-15 Watt this unit produces. BTW putting the HC2 in a steel box... doesn't that reduce radio performance? Never tried it, but my textbook says it's a Faraday cage...

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Hi Peter!

Thank you for your reply :-)

 

The only important spec is the temperature of the components... So if you want to do a scientific test, you'll have to glue a thermocouple to the processor. And see if all the adaptations make any difference. Unfortunately, the software doesn't give as access to the temp sensors of the board. I bet, if they were displayed, people wouldn't get as upset as they do now. Fibaro has said a few times over a few years, that the unit was designed to feel hot (lukewarm) to the touch, 40 degrees is OK. Sorry, don't have a reference available. It's a passive cooler and due to the aluminum, heat distribution is ver good. That is, in free air, in an enclosure you have to get rid of the 5-15 Watt this unit produces. BTW putting the HC2 in a steel box... doesn't that reduce radio performance? Never tried it, but my textbook says it's a Faraday cage...

 

You are right - it is not a scientific test but I can make some conclusions according to the relative temperature.

The difference between the temperature of the environment and the HC2 is almost always the same.

My goal is to protect my HC2 in a steel box and also try to prevent overheating of the device.

 

Now I did a test with the door open at the steel box, the HC2 temperature decreases immediately about 5°C. (lesson learned: less protection means better cooling ;-))

 

 

The Faraday cage also came first in my mind 8-)

But I made some tests: G3/G4 (LTE) mobile internet, WiFi and the Z-Wave Network are working fine - even through a brick wall!

Maybe because of the cooling slots I made in the box.

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Thank you for sharing! I'm not a HF engineer... But I did some tests with aluminum foil and it certainly didn't stop Z-Wave. Leaky Cage Of Faraday? ;-)

Anyway, your post made me think. I thought of a way to test the quality of your signal. Unfortunately, signal quality is not displayed anywhere. But there is a possibility. I don't now how experienced you are (with Fibaro modules), so you may already know what I am going to say.

If you want to test routing and range in your network, there is one diagnostic tool and you may not realize you have it... This explanation is in the documentation of the wall plug. But this "range tester" also exists in the smoke sensor and motion sensor. You can use it to probe the network:

To test the range:

1) Insert Plug into a mains socket,

2) Press and hold the B button for 10-15 seconds until the LED ring glows violet,

3) Release the B button,

4) Press the B button briefly.

5) LED ring signals Z-Wave network range - see below for signaling modes description.

6) To exit range testing mode press the B button briefly. Plugs relay will not change its status.

Z-Wave network range signaling modes:

LED ring pulsing green - Wall Plug tries to establish direct connection with the main controller. If direct connection cannot be established, Plug will try routing connection with the main controller which will be signaled by LED ring pulsing yellow.

LED ring glowing green - Wall Plug managed to establish a direct connection with the main controller.

LED ring pulsing yellow - Wall Plug is trying to establish routed connection with the main cotroller, via other Z-Wave devices acting as signal repeaters.

LED ring glowing yellow - Wall Plug managed to establish routed connection with the main controller. After 2 seconds the Plug will try again to establish a direct connection with the main controller, which will be signaled by LED ring pulsing green.

LED ring pulsing violet - Wall Plug is located outside the Z-Wave network's range or the network is busy. Ultimately, failure to connect with the main controller will be signalled by LED ring pulsing red. After 2 seconds the Plug will again try to establish a direct connection with the main controller which will be signaled by LED ring blinking green.

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I stored HC2 together with my NAS and router into one small rack all powered from one 12V 120W Meanwell Switching Power Supply (I just don’t believe into those cheap China adapters). To reduce the heat problem, I installed 12cm low noise fan into the rack door. This fan is blowing fresh air directly to the HC2 and NAS. I can see that the NAS temperature went down from 40C to 32C when not loaded. Also HC2 is not as warm as it used to be before out of the rack. But I had problem with HC2 zwave range after that, so I bought antenna extension cable (http://r.ebay.com/aE99U3) and placed zwave antenna out of the rack. Everything works without any problem so far (over the 2 month with this setup).  

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Hi Igy & Peter!

 

Thank's for your messages!

 

I'll install a temperature probe into the Box to record the temperature, maybe I will have to change the cooling during summer time.

In winter the room where the box is installed is pretty cold :-)

 

@Peter

Thank you for your verry good description for the quality checking.

It was the first thing I did (with the wall plug) after I put the HC2 in the Box. There were no slots for airflow, I made them later...

The led was glowing green.

This weekend hopefully I'll install the Box in my house then I'll do the test again and will report it here.

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