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Another fibaro FGD-212 problem?


KristianO

Question

Hi,

 

I have seen alot of different issues with the dimmer 2 (FGD-212) and have experienced a few my self.

The sensivity on the connectors is for sure one of them.

 

Yesterday i found another one, after connection of power the auto calibration started and the light went on and off.

After a minute or so i started the inclusion of the device to HC2.

 

But the light continues to go on and off.... slowly upp and then off... upp again and off...

After 4-5 min, I cut power and deleted the device from the HC2. Tried again but again still the same.

 

Another problem that will be fixed with firmware 3.4? 

 

The lights are 9x20w of 12v hallogen (roofspots).

 

 

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It could be that the dimmer doesn't like the power supply. If you can give me make & model (e.g. Osram Halotronic HTM 105) then I can see if I can find more about it in the data sheets. During calibration, the dimmer is unavailable for inclusion/exclusion (several seconds). So I'd test the dimmer in this case with a switch connected to it (and forget about inclusion at the moment).

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  • Inquirer
  • Thanks! Ill se what i can find about the trafo. Yes, the light behaves like this even before the inclusion. I guess i waited around 1 minute before i even runt the inclusion. During this time the light went on/off like 10-15 times... 

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    I'm not 100% sure but I think you can't disable the initial calibration. It would mean the load (supply) responds in an unexpected way. If this happens on a 2-wire setup, would it be possible to try 3-wire instead? If that is impossible or it's already 3-wire, you could try to add a 230 V incandescent lamp, rated at least 25 W parallel to the load (so connected to dimmer output and N) - that might help to get auto calibration. You can disconnect the lamp afterwards, but at power loss the dimmer will attempt to calibrate again. A permanent solution might me a Bypass 2 but I'd say that's "to be tested".

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    I think the auto calibration can be turn off by changing the parameter 35 to 0.

    I have come across quite similar case, and it could be due to the one or more of halogen transfomer coming to EOL.

    Bypass 2 suggested by Peter is one possible solution, as it help to solve the case I come across previously

    Another possibility might be due to the abnomal behavior of halogen transformer causes overload, as the total load of the light setup is 180W and Dimmer2 spec is 250W. One way I can suggest to test out for this case is to remove a few pieces of the halogen, complete the calibration and then add the dimmer2 to the HC2. After that you may put back all the halogen.

    The HC2 should be able to report any over current or other abnormality detected by the dimmer2.

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  • Inquirer
  • Thanks guys! Will for sure test to turn off the auto calibration.

     

    I use 3x105 VA transformer from Osram. (Mouse)
     
    Another thing i found were a possible fault in the installation? The Sx is not used at all.
    Here is a picture from the old dimmer that a like to replace. Is this the problem?

     

    The dimmer is connected to a 3-way connection.

    Please login or register to see this attachment.

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    As I understand it, you have 1 switch close (< 30 cm) to the module, and a second switch several meters away. Instead of Sx, you use L on the second switch. L coming from a nearby circuit, or possibly coming from the dimmer. Yes, that could be the problem. But it's also possible that the dimmer picks up stray signals via the wires going to the second switch (in that case using Sx or L may not make much of a difference). What I would do to diagnose the problem is this: disconnect the second switch and only use short wires to the first. Dimmer v 3.2 is sensitive to long wires (depends on a few factors, see topic "dimmer turns off after 1 second"), v 3.3 and 3.4 improve immunity, the firmware exists but unfortunately the HC2 software to upgrade your unit hasn't been released yet.

     

    I have tested the dimmer with one of those transformers, should be no issue. Almost certainly 2 transformers would work too. I don't have three Osram Halotronic, I can't test it. If you are able to include the dimmer (by using workarounds as described above) then you might be able to see extra information on the web page (status bar). Like "overcurrent".

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  • Inquirer
  • Thanks!

    Correct, as you can see in the attachment the first switch is just above the dimmer. Today there is a FGD 211 connected that works perfectly. I just want to replace that dimmer with a FGD 212.

    The L and N are move accordingly and the S1 too.

    The O from the old dimmer to the variable connection of new.

    I tried to shut of the autocalibration and it seems

    Like it stopped the on and off precedure. But now I can't turn on/off the light using the fysical switch. But it works from the gui.

    I start to hate this dimmer 2. I just want to replace a fully functional dimmer 1 with dimmer 2. How hard can it be?

    Any specific parameters that A should pay some

    Extra tension to with my set-up above?

    Help will be awarded!

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    Judging from your photo and from your description, you use 2 toggle switches on S1 (aka 3-way switch wiring). In that case, for FGD-212 this parameter applies:

     

    20. Switch type
    Choose between momentary switch, toggle switch and roller blind switch.
    Available settings:
    0 - momentary switch
    1 - toggle switch
    2 - Roller blind switch - two switches operate the Dimmer (S1 to brighten, S2 to dim)

     

    This should be set to "1".

     

    For FGD-211, that would be Parameter No. 14, same options.

     

    If those aren't toggle switches, but push buttons, 0 would be OK. But it would be strange to have 3 wires connected to a push button (and the picture on the back of the switch would be different too).

     

    If you are changing the dimmer "live" (without switching off the circuit breaker, which I don't recommend!), a potential configuration error might occur. The dimmer might detect "2-wire" instead of "3-wire" setup. Simply powering of the dimmer for 5 seconds should fix that.

     

    Running out of ideas...

     

     

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