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terryble66

GARAGE DOOR EASY with Fibaro switch

Question

Hello I'm Thierry

I have a new project which is to add fibaro on my garage door opener.

I m not an expert in electricity so this is why i need your expertise.

 

I have a door openner with three buttons (up/stop/down)

I would like to configure the FGS-212 to control pulse on those buttons.

I have uploaded the diagram of the box the diagram is in page 7

to change the state from 1 to 2 buttons it's in page 15 

 

Sorry most of the text is in french but there is some english.

 

Btw i can use a smart implant if you think this is better.

 

Thank you for your help

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Hi @Thierry,

 

French is foreign to me, so the following is based on the diagrams. For this, you really only need to send two commands to your door controller: open and close.  You will be simulating the controller setup on top right of page 7.  Note you are connecting to the door controller not to the remote control.  So a double relay switch (FGS-222) is what you need: 

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Your controller manual shows that connector L1 connects to the open switch, and L4 is the close switch.  So wire up the Fibaro device as follows:

 

Fibaro IN  <->  Controller L3 (common)

Fibaro Q1  <->  Controller L1 (open)

Fibaro Q2  <->  Controller L4 (close)

Fibaro L  <-> 230V active

Fibaro N  <-> 230V neutral

 

(If you look at the Fibaro manual, do not connect Fibaro IN to L or you will destroy your controller!) . This is 230V so please be very careful - get an electrician in if needed.

 

You can then program the home centre.  As a fun extension to the project, try creating a Virtual Device (HC2) / Quick App (HC3), with custom icons.

 

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  • Thank you [email protected] for the clear explanation.

     

    I understand that the FGS-212 is not the correct one.

    I have a FGS-223 not used yet, is this one can replace the FGS-222 (

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    )?

     

    Quote

    This is 230V so please be very careful - get an electrician in if needed.

    No problem , i have a circuit breaker next to it to shutdown the controller before any modification.

     

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    Posted (edited)

    @terryble66

    good Morning

    My French is also not so useful.
    But when I look at it this way and analyze the circuit diagrams, I see a 24VDC control.
    The devices you mentioned are not suitable for this.
    FIBARO now has a new module (FGS 224) that has potential-free outputs and also works with 24VDC.
    Furthermore, the inputs and the outputs can be used separately.
    This is the right device for such a handicraft!

    Greetings from the neighboring country
    Frank

     

    Bonjour

    Mon franéais n'est pas non plus si utile.
    Mais quand je regarde les choses de cette faéon et que j'analyse les schémas de circuit, je vois une commande 24VDC.
    Les appareils que vous avez mentionnés ne sont pas adaptés é cela.
    FIBARO a maintenant un nouveau module (FGS 224) qui a sorties libres de potentiel et fonctionne également avec 24VDC.
    De plus, les entrées et les sorties peuvent étre utilisées séparément.
    C'est le bon appareil pour un tel artisanat!

    Salutations du pays voisin
    Franc

     

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    Edited by FBerges

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  • Hello Danke 

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    So now i m little confused the FGS-212 suggested by 

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    cannot do the job ?

     

    If i use the FGS 224 how can i connect it in my controller ?

     

    Thank you

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    Posted (edited)

    So I put it on the quick one.
    Sorry for the scribble
    Then you can go up and down with LUA.
    If you also want to stop you have to have a second 224 and switch the yellow wire.
    I hope you can handle it so well.
    Otherwise please ask a question and I will try to answer it.
    Greetings Frank

     

    Alors je l'ai mis sur le rapide.
    Désolé pour le gribouillage
    Ensuite, vous pouvez monter et descendre avec LUA.
    Si vous voulez aussi vous arrêter, vous devez avoir un deuxième 224 et changer le fil jaune.
    J'espère que vous pouvez le gérer si bien.
    Sinon, posez une question et j'essaierai d'y répondre.
    Salutations Frank
     

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    Edited by FBerges
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  • danke 

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    i have two choices here now.

    One with the 230V and one with the 48v

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    Hmmm, I was not aware of the FGS-224, I dont think it is available in Australia (?yet - happy to be corrected).  It looks like an updated version of the FGS-222.  Either will work, but given you have 24V DC readily available (and it is safer for you), you should use the FGS-224.

     

    @FBerges has provided a good diagram. To simplify a little, I don't think the blue connection between L3 and L8 is strictly necessary.

     

    Let us know if you get it working :-) 

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    Posted (edited)

    Hello

    I do not know whether the connection L3 to L8 is necessary but one says here in Germany: "Caution is the mother of the porcelain box".
    However, the supply voltage must not exceed 30VDC (according to the data sheet) do not forget!
    48V are too much and I suspect a mistake.
    You can supply the 224 with both 230VAC and 24VDC.
    The inputs are coupled to the supply voltage and the outputs are floating.
    I think the module can also be ordered in Australia, otherwise just do it through a German dealer e.g.

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    Just write an order by e-mail ([email protected]), which will surely send you a 224.
    I have already ordered in Australia so the dealers are helpful and nice!
    They always understand English! 😂
    If anyone else would like to have a circuit diagram scribbled, write me.

    So now greetings to the neighboring country and "Down Under"
    Frank

     

    Bonjour

    Je ne sais pas si la connexion L3 à L8 est nécessaire mais on dit ici en Allemagne: "Attention c'est la mère de la boîte en porcelaine".
    Cependant, la tension d'alimentation ne doit pas dépasser 30VDC (selon la fiche technique) ne pas oublier!
    48V sont trop et je soupçonne une erreur.
    Vous pouvez alimenter le 224 avec 230VAC et 24VDC.
    Les entrées sont couplées à la tension d'alimentation et les sorties sont flottantes.
    Je pense que le module peut également être commandé en Australie, sinon il suffit de le faire via un revendeur allemand, par exemple

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    Il suffit d'écrire une commande par e-mail ([email protected]), qui vous enverra sûrement un 224.
    J'ai déjà commandé en Australie, donc les concessionnaires sont serviables et gentils!
    Ils comprennent toujours l'anglais! 😂
    Si quelqu'un d'autre aimerait avoir un schéma de circuit griffonné, écrivez-moi.

    Alors maintenant, salutations au pays voisin et "Down Under"
    Frank

     

    PS

    Oh I'm just writing a letter that you need the Australian version!
    It won't work in Australia with the European version.
    You can also write to @tinmann who works at Intuitec.

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    /monthly_2020_07/image.png.d67ac22a9d710446e8b481a76608cfe1.png" />

     

     

    Edited by FBerges

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    Need to be careful about ordering zwave devices from other countries, because there are about a dozen different z-wave frequencies depending on where you are located.  Sometimes devices are delayed into countries beacuse they are waiting for regulatory approval.

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    @terryble66

    The original question was that you have the up / stop / down button control and you need to control the Fibaro module as well.
    Then you really need two modules and you have to solve the opening of the stop signal (FBerges wrote the yellow wire in his diagram). In the module settings it is then necessary to solve the switching of this "stop" relay to "NC".

    Another way is to go to control with the help of one button in the mode of switching up - stop - down - stop - up ... etc.
    Then one module will suffice, of which only one contact.
    You program this mode in the Door Easy unit. Controlled by switching input L1 (Start / up) with L3 (Com)

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  • Thank you guys for all this discutions around my garage door which is a great help for me.

     

    @FBerges & @Tim__

    There is two questions i need to solved ;)

    1/ Which module i will use (not which one i can use) the FGS-222 or FGS-224

    i'm not using Home Center , i'm an

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    user and not sure FGS-224 is included yet.

     

    2/ i really prefer using  my garage door still I'm using ,

      @Martin_N worked that i need two modules ? 

    is there any diagram that you can provide working with the same ?

     

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    @terryble66

    If you do not use the STOP button and the door stops itself in the end positions, then you only need 2 relay contacts, as painted by FBerges.
    But then you can't stop the gate with automation!
    A variant is to use the Smart Implant module. It is also powered by a low DC voltage. Unlike the FGS-224, the two relay contacts are completely separate from each other (but in your case it does not matter). I know that Smart Implant on Homey is used successfully.

     

    >>is there any diagram that you can provide working with the same ?

    I don't understand your question.
    If it is meant to redo the control with one button, I described it in the previous post.
    If this means the same module (one), then 224 has two contacts. Smart Implant take. Here you will use one contact (in case of a redesigned control), in case of an existing control you will use 2 contacts. (one for Up, one for Down).
    And I've already written above, if you want to STOP, you have to add a third contact! (either module 222 - it has one contact, or 224 or SmImp and you will use only one of them).

     

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    Hello

    Now I'm not sure who would like to have.
    Whether the modules work with the Homey?
    I once made a picture (SORRY for the scribble)

    The first SmartInplant steers up and down.
    The second is the stop.
    Then, as suggested, switch the output as an opener and don't forget.
    Greetings Frank

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    Good job Berges. (currently I'm only on the phone, so I can't solve the graphics). Thanks for the scheme.
    Now Terryble66 has everything he needs.
    Perhaps I will just add that the relay logic for SI rotation is set to 1 for out1 by parameter rotation, parameter 155 to 1 for out2 by parameter 155 (it depends on which one it needs)

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  • Hi @Martin_N and @FBerges

    Thank you for the fast reply.

     

    Quote

    Now Terryble66 has everything he needs.

    As i have already one  SmartInplant , I need to buy another one.

     

    Then i can do the SmartInplant diagram provided by FBerges.

    This module is nice as it work with the 24VDC

     

    @FBerges I can follow the diagram it"s clear. I thank you for it.

     

    Let me get the SmartInplant and i will let you know how it"s work with Fberges diagram.

     

     

     

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    Posted (edited)

    I noticed with everyone that the L1 is labeled Start / up. Since I don't speak French, I don't know what the manual says about it.
    Maybe you can switch to impulse operation, then a smart implant could be sufficient.
    One output of the SmartImplant on start and the second on stop. So I have it here at my Rademacher garage door.
    I built 2 limit switches for gate open and gate closed.
    Then I integrated it into my alarm system.
    If someone wants to see that, I'll take a picture of it.
    Greetings Frank

     

    PS Sorry in German 

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    Edited by FBerges

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  • @FBerges

     

    1 hour ago, FBerges said:

    hat the L1 is labeled Start / up. Since I don't speak French, I don't know what the manual says about it.

    I tried to translate the table that indicates operation's modes according to one or two buttons.

    I hope you will understand it as much as possible.

     

    Quote

    Maybe you can switch to impulse operation, then a smart implant could be sufficient.

    Using only one SmartInplant  will be great. Any diagram that can explain only one SmartInplant connectivity if it use impulse operation?

     

    by the way:

    pressure-maintained Mode cannot be used as it stop radio fonction.

     

    Semi-automatic 1 LED programming button start / up = OFF, dm / fire = OFF and auto / Down = OFF
    The "semi-automatic 1 button" operating mode allows the opening and closing of
    door by pushing the START command or the transmitter button once.

     

    Therefore i can use this mode, cannot I ?


    Thank you again gents !

     

     

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    Posted (edited)

     

    Now we are already with a bottle of red wine, a brie and a baguet!

    Here is the circuit diagram for impulse start and stop everything controllable via LUA or block diagram.
    Now only a SmartImplant is required.

    The diagram is very confusing but the fashion should be automatic.
    But you can still try that.
    Don't forget output 1 must now be open.
    Now you can start the gate with a pulse on output 2 for approx. 1 second. Try it, nothing can happen.
    This is a real EU (F,CZ,NL,D) and Down Under project!

     

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    Edited by FBerges

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  • Hello Guys

     

    Danke @FBerges !

     

    I have tried but it didn't worked.

    I have changed the button setting from 2 to 1.

    When i have connected the smartimplant as mentionned by @FBerges the controller give me error.

    The stop blinking, meaning that the start command is ignored because stop is activated.

     

    If i want to operate as it's configured (2 buttons) which diagram i have to use to have 3 buttons (start, stop, and down)

    Two smartimplants, needed ?

     

    Thank you for your help.

     

     

     

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