Help with Gate wiring

[JayZbird 0]

Hi All-

I hoping for some advice wiring up the smart implant to activate my Liftmaster Roboslide gate opener. I read the instructions on gate openers, but am still confused about how to install the implant. The wiring diagram for the gate remote (I'm assuming this is what I should tap into) is attached. It seems the default setup only gives you the ability to emulate a click of the remote that will toggle open/close. To really be "smart", I'm wondering if there is a way to integrate one or both of the gate's limit sensors to identify whether it's open or closed (these are little switches that I believe shut off power or send a signal back to the main gate controller when a little rotating gear has travelled a certain distance and physically activates the switch–they have 3 wires going into each sensor, and one of them drops to nil when the switch activates). Really only one should be necessary to determine the state of the gate, since if one is open the other should be closed unless stops partway. I'm unclear if I can wire these directly into the implant or if I need another module? The whole system runs on 12V DC, and it seems the supplemental voltage sensors only go up to 10V? 

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

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[FBerges 52]

Hello

 

Then we want to see that we get the garage door connected to the SmartImplant.

 

The module (SmartImplant) has the following connections:
ANT (black) - antenna
GND (blue) - ground conductor
SD (white) - signal conductor for DS18B20 or DHT22 sensor
SP (brown) - power supply conductor for DS18B20 or DHT22 sensor
(3.3V)
IN2 (green) - input no.2
IN1 (yellow) - input no.1
GND (blue) - ground conductor
P (red) - power supply conductor
OUT1 - output no. 1 assigned to input IN1
OUT2 - output no. 2 assigned to input IN2
B - service button (used to add / remove the device)

 

Your garage door operator has 10 clamps.

 

1.

The blue wire goes to terminal 8
The red one on terminal 10
The module is now supplied with voltage.
(You can include the module)

 

2.

From the first terminal (module OUT1) it goes to terminal 9
From the second terminal (module OUT1) it goes to terminal 8
You can now control the garage door.
(Now you should be able to open and close the garage door with the gateway HC3 by switching OUT1.)

 

3.

You can connect the two switches for open and closed to green and yellow, namely the switch contact that is pulled to ground (GND) when the switch is closed.
Now you can identify with In1 and In2.

Everything should be done with that.

 

Always do it one after the other and then try each time to see if it works.

 

Greetings from Germany / Sauerland
Frank

 

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[JayZbird 0]

Thank you, Frank, for the detailed reply! I'll follow up with my results.

[Martin_N 148]

@JayZbird

The state of the gate (open / closed) is really signaled by the end switch. Unfortunately, the control unit does not provide status. The solution is elegant and simple, which I recommend is to add a magnetic contact on the guide leaf or gate. Then connect it to the SmartImplant input.
A more complex solution means interfering with the gate control - it is necessary to disconnect the limit switches, insert their contact into the relay circuit with a pair of contacts. You use one set back to connect to the engine control unit (actually by "returning" the limit switches) and connect the other set to the SmartImplant.
I assume that if the gate is in the intermediate position (probably no limit switch will be pressed), only the control unit knows which movement (open / close) was last and therefore which action to perform next.

I recommend going only the first way with an added magnet without interfering with the internal gate control.

eM.

 

[JayZbird 0]

So I made a bit of progress. Using the wiring instructions Frank provided, I go the device included OK and got the actuation working. I'm using SmartThings and the

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from Ovidiu Pruteanu. At first I tried setting up Button 1. At the default setting it would immediately trigger the gate upon wiring the unit, but pressing the button itself did nothing, the normal gate remote stopped working , and the "Radio Rec" light on the board stayed constantly lit. Switching setting 154. Output 1 - logic of operation to "contacts normally open / closed when active" turned off the light on the board and re-enabled my normal gate remote, but the smart Implant Button 1 still would not trigger the gate. What I did get to work was to instead Switch 1 and then configure 156. Output 1 - auto off to 10, i.e., 1 second. This works fine to trigger the gate, though I'd still like to understand what I'm doing wrong with the Button 1.

 

I had less luck trying to wire up the limit sensors. For reference, this snap of the sensor shows the wiring. I tried wiring it to the blue wire terminal, and after actuating the switch the sensor would record no voltage as the gate was moving, then ~ 12V  when the switch closed for maybe 15 seconds, then fall back to 0. I'm utterly confounded by how this things works. Perhaps the board only sends power to the limit switches for a short period of time? I never got any voltage reading off the brown wire terminal. I also wonder if working with 12V in any case will damage the Implant.

 

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Implant settings. I tried both alarm and Analog.

 

Sensor readings:

Immediately after limit switch for ~ 15 seconds, ..... then 0

              

 

 

[JayZbird 0]

On 9/25/2020 at 12:44 AM, Martin_N said:

@JayZbird

The state of the gate (open / closed) is really signaled by the end switch. Unfortunately, the control unit does not provide status. The solution is elegant and simple, which I recommend is to add a magnetic contact on the guide leaf or gate. Then connect it to the SmartImplant input.
A more complex solution means interfering with the gate control - it is necessary to disconnect the limit switches, insert their contact into the relay circuit with a pair of contacts. You use one set back to connect to the engine control unit (actually by "returning" the limit switches) and connect the other set to the SmartImplant.
I assume that if the gate is in the intermediate position (probably no limit switch will be pressed), only the control unit knows which movement (open / close) was last and therefore which action to perform next.

I recommend going only the first way with an added magnet without interfering with the internal gate control.

eM.

 

Martin, can you point me to the type of sensor you are referring to?

[Martin_N 148]

@JayZbird

Quote

For reference, this snap of the sensor shows the wiring. I tried wiring it to the blue wire terminal, and after actuating the switch the sensor would record no voltage as the gate was moving, then ~ 12V  when the switch closed for maybe 15 seconds, then fall back to 0. I'm utterly confounded by how this things works. Perhaps the board only sends power to the limit switches for a short period of time? I never got any voltage reading off the brown wire terminal

You probably didn't read my post carefully. The only way to connect the end sensors is to separate them from the control electronics of the gate! Yes, your assumption is correct. There is always a switch of some "measuring" voltage. In your case, it could be 12V and you can be glad it wasn't 230AC.
Smart Implant has 0-10V inputs for analog measurement. Binary measurements are made against GND. In fact, I have no idea what potential the input operates with. I can only guess that it will be either the full voltage of the power supply, or rather some 3-5V. Then it meant that you sent him to the silicon heaven.

 

Otherwise a comment. I didn't see your pictures. Use the recommended forum procedure. There is a link to it in the header.

As for magnetic contacts. There are a large number of them and only you have to choose a specific type from your supplier of security systems depending on the dimensions. So-called "crossing" magnets are used to operate gates and gates if they are to be placed on the ground. If they are with the drive, they can be in a lighter variant. You must keep the maximum working distance and keep a reserve if, for example, there is a shift during operation.

 

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[JayZbird 0]

10 hours ago, Martin_N said:

@JayZbird

 

Yes, your post was correct. I was hoping Frank's procedure for the sensors might work. I did place an inline 100mA fuse when testing this so hopefully no damage done to the unit. I figure the problems with SmartThings I should handle on their forum. So I'll look for the types of sensors you recommend. Thank you again!

 

10 hours ago, Martin_N said:

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[Martin_N 148]

@JayZbird

And did the fuse blow? This is because the fuse provides overcurrent protection. But your problem was different: overvoltage.
These are two different things, to be similar in performance. The consequence may be similar.
I know that you described everything in detail in your introductory post (which is definitely not a habit and I must praise you for that).
But I also have to stand up for Frank, he didn't actually say that you have to connect them to the end switches under voltage.

Now I can think of one use of SmartImplant. use the second module with which you will copy the states of the limit switches (connected to the inputs) to the states for the control unit (SI outputs). This will get the states of both end sensors (evaluate the state of the gate).
However, a similar service (cheaper) will be done by the relay I wrote last time.

Be sure to write down your results as you proceed. It will help other users.
eM.