Roller Shutter calibration process does not work

[adamdeluxe 0]

Dear community,

 

I went through a lots of posts here but unfortunately I cannot find a solution for my issue.

I am operating 9 Fibaro Roller Shutter for my window blindings since 2016 in combination with a Home Center 2.

 

From the very beginning I had issues to calibrate the roller shutters.

• The roller shutter (fully opened) got the command from the HC (I tried also other calibration methods),
• the shutter clicks,
• the shutter´s LED blinks red
• the blind is not moving
• I have to push the wall switch to "reset" the shutter

 

If I do it from the closed position:

• The roller shutter (fully closed) got the command from the HC (I tried also other calibration methods),
• the shutter clicks,
• the shutter drives the blinding to the "fully-opened-position"
• the shutter´s LED blinks red
• the blind is not moving
• I have to push the wall switch to "reset" the shutter

 

The shutters can be used to drive the blinding up or down. They work.

Also scenes can be set-up and the shutters are included and to what they should do, drive down and up.

 

Because of the lack of calibration the blinding level (0-100%) cannot be set/ used. Nigher over the slider, nor with a scene.

 

Now it becomes funny. Today - don´t ask me why - I created a scene to close the shutter of my office room 50% and (surprise) it has worked.

Also the calibration is working, but only with the shutter in my office room.

I tried to be smart and checked all settings/ parameters or the working shutter - I have not found any special set-ups - and checked the parameters of the "bad shutters".

I have still the same problem: I cannot calibrate the shutter and so I cannot set-up levels, nigher over the slider, nor over the scene. (just in the office room).

 

If you need any further information, please let me know.

 

Best regards

 

PS: I tried to change the Q1- and Q2-wires... same calibration issue and on-top wrong allocation of the commands up and down.

PPS: I also tried to play with parameter 18, I went down to 1 and up to 150... not successful 

 

 

[Martin_N 143]

@adamdeluxe

Are you writing that you have tried other calibration methods? How about resetting to factory settings, B-button calibration?
How did this turn out? I also recommend focusing on the correct setting of the shading type. I also recommend looking at the consumption when the shield moves and solve the parameter to detect about 1/10 of this consumption. There are values for which this may not work properly with a given shield.

eM.

[adamdeluxe 0]

Hello Martin_N,

thanks for your response. I tried also the calibration over the B-button. All other ways (f.i. using the switch or the parameter) does not work. 

What I find difficult to understand is, that with the calibration button in HC2/ device the calibration process starts. Unfortunately the process fails and the LED is blinking red and the shutter must be "unblocked" by the wall switch. I have the impression that the calibration process tries to drive the blind down and up, unfortunately it starts with up in a upper position and it stops and blocks. But the cables are connected properly, I can drive the blind up and down via the HC2 web interface and the App, but the positioning is not working!

[Martin_N 143]

@adamdeluxe

I might ask stupidly: are your switches pulse buttons? It almost looks as if they were switches and stayed pressed. Do you happen to have protection or RF protection turned on? See manual.
1) Try disconnecting the switches from Roller Shutter 2.
2) perform a hw reset to factory values.
3) perform calibration using the B-button.

If that doesn't help, I'd look for a fault in the wiring. It almost looks like the exchange of a live wire with an outgoing one (up or down direction). Adding to this is a gate lock mode, it can work wonders.

Last question. I assume that you have the power supply of the blinds with the help of 230V.

[adamdeluxe 0]

Hi,

attached please fin a picture of my switch.

I will try to disconnect the switch wires, reset the shutter and calibrate via the B-button.

I don´t think that the wires are wrong due to the fact, that the shutter works with the switch and I can use the HC2 web interface or the App to close and open the blind with the shutter. The calibration works only in my office room. And therefore I think that the blind motor is different from the other ones.

 

The window in my office room is an escape window and has - additional to the electrical switch - a (hand) winder. Maybe the construction company has used simply another motor and this one works with the Fibaro shutter and the other ones don´t?!

Br

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Edited February 12, 2021 by adamdeluxe

[Martin_N 143]

@adamdeluxe

According to the photo, it looks like a toggle and not a button. When you press it, does it return to its original position? If not, it could be the problem. These are usually push-button switches that have a mechanical interlock so that both directions cannot be switched on at the same time.

Attention, there are switches that do this interlock electrically and then it depends on whether it is connected correctly.

Anyway, disconnecting the controller will definitely detect the status.