FGS 224 (double smart module) with lamp / wall switch

[fubar 0]

Hello,

 

I'm just beginning with modules and I have a FGS 224 which I would like to use to control a lamp.

The lamp is wired to a wall switch (with a neutral wire available).

 

I have wired the module according to the following :

 

N = neutral

L = line

IN = line

Q1 = lamp (line)

S1 = switch (output)

 

But it's not working, I've heard the relay clicking at some point, and for a few seconds, the lamp lighted up, but since then, nothing.

 

I'm trying to have the wall switch working with the module first, I don't have time to configure the z-wave bridge for now.

 

Any idea ?

 

Photo attached

 

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Edited February 20, 2022 by fubar
photo

[Tim__ 116]

Is the yellow bar a wire connector?  If so, you've connected the output Q1 to live, and you may have fried your device.

[fubar 0]

Yes it's a wire connector, and no it's not connected to Q1.

Q1 is connected to the lamp.

[petergebruers 1,265]

Fibaro dimmers 1 and 2 can function with 2 wires only, with certain restrictions, meaning one wire goes to the lamp and the other wire goes to either L or N. In a way, you can often use a dimmer as if it were a "simple 2 contact switch" in between the mains and your lamp. The dimmer can "steal" some power from te circuit to power itself (and thus requires a certain load and often a "dimmer bypass module" 

 

Fibaro switches and relays cannot do that, really none of them. They require at least 3 wires: L and N mains to power the module, directly coming from mains, no switches or no loads in between mains and these two wires (the module needs 230 V at all times.). The third wire is marked O or Q (sometimes referenced to IN, sometimes to L/N depending on the model) and goes to your lamp.

 

I am not sure about Z-Wave but I've seen reference to Zigbee electronic switches that can function like the dimmers, so only require 2 wires to operate. I have no experience with those modules, I suspect the same limitations as the "Fibaro Dimmer 2" apply.

 

If all orange wires are "lamp" and if I interprete that picture correctly, then you have no real "L" and you try to set up a relay as dimmer in 2-wire config. Which won't work.

 

Does this help?

[fubar 0]

Fibaro dimmers 1 and 2 can function with 2 wires only, with certain restrictions, meaning one wire goes to the lamp and the other wire goes to either L or N. In a way, you can often use a dimmer as if it were a "simple 2 contact switch" in between the mains and your lamp. The dimmer can "steal" some power from te circuit to power itself (and thus requires a certain load and often a "dimmer bypass module" 

 

-> it's not a dimmer, I have 2 wires available (line and neutral), and it's for an incandescent lamp.

 

Fibaro switches and relays cannot do that, really none of them. They require at least 3 wires: L and N mains to power the module, directly coming from mains, no switches or no loads in between mains and these two wires (the module needs 230 V at all times.).

 

-> yes, that's the case.

 

The third wire is marked O or Q (sometimes referenced to IN, sometimes to L/N depending on the model) and goes to your lamp.

 

-> Q1 goes to my lamp, but since there is a "IN" too, which one should i pick ? I wired L on "IN"

 

If all orange wires are "lamp" and if I interprete that picture correctly, then you have no real "L" and you try to set up a relay as dimmer in 2-wire config. Which won't work.

 

-> No, white is lamp, orange/red = L

 

 

[petergebruers 1,265]

Okay, we are "on the same page" and we understand each other. I was just trying to make sure you hadn't made some assumptions about how everything should be wired and what to expect.

 

Good.

 

What I personally would do, is setup a small test environment. Unmount that module, and put it on a desk. Connect only wires L and N to mains power. Try to exclude and include, does that work? Then, when you go to your home automation system, and you control the first relay, and the second relay, do you hear clicking from the relay?

[fubar 0]

I don't have home assistant ready yet, which connector should I pick for the lamp ? IN or Q1 ? Should I wire the line on IN like I did ?

[petergebruers 1,265]

16 hours ago, fubar said:

I don't have home assistant ready yet

 

Ah, although I use "Home Assistant" myself, I do not use it as a Z-Wave gateway in my house (that is not 100% true but for now that is good enough for you to have some background) - and I also do not own a FGS224...

 

What I do know

 

The OpenZWave (deprecated) integration will be removed, probably this year, so you'll either use 

 

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Note the very confusing names!

 

Both can be used with HASS but AFAIK most "power" users do ZWavejs2Mqtt because:

 

Full-Featured Z-Wave to MQTT Gateway: Expose Z-Wave devices to an MQTT broker in a fully configurable manner
Secured: Supports HTTPS and user authentication
Control Panel UI: Directly control your nodes and their values from the UI, including:
Nodes management: Add, remove, and configure all nodes in your Z-Wave network
Firmware updates: Update device firmware using manufacturer-supplied firmware files (BUT NO FW UPDATE FOR FIBARO DEVICES!)
Groups associations: Add, edit, and remove direct node associations
Z-Wave JS Exposed: Provides full-access to Z-Wave JS's APIs
Scene Management: Create scenes and trigger them by using MQTT apis (with timeout support)
Debug Logs in the UI: See debug logs directly from the UI
Access Store Files in the UI: Access the files are stored in the persistent store folder directly from the UI
Network Graph: Provides a beautiful map showing how nodes are communicating with the controller
Supports the Official Home Assistant Integration: Can act as the backend driver for the official Home Assistant integration, using the same driver and socket server as the official addon

 

I highlighted "Control Panel UI" because *I think* it is more powerful than than using only "zwavejs and integration".

 

Anyway... Here's a long topic discussing the *newest* integration and the kind of issues you might run into

 

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I am saying this because you may need to change parameters 20 and 21:

 

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20. S1 input – switch type
This parameter defines as what type the device should treat the switch connected to the S1 terminal.

Parameter size: 1B
Default value: 0 (momentary switch)

Available values:

0 – momentary switch

1 – toggle switch synchronized (contact closed – ON, contact opened – OFF)

2 – toggle switch with memory (device changes status when switch changes status)

 

16 hours ago, fubar said:

which connector should I pick for the lamp ? IN or Q1 ?

Please use "Q1" to go the lamp. Technically, you could wire in a different way but that would be confusing if you have to work on this, say, a year from now.

 

16 hours ago, fubar said:

Should I wire the line on IN like I did ?

I don't live in your house and I do not have a quick way to find out what the coloured wires mean. I can see that the schematic in the FGS224 manual is missing information.

 

But yeah IN goes to L (so 230 V mains) and Q1 goes to the lamp, and the other side of the lamp is N

 

I'll try to fix that picture in the manual, today or tomorrow

 

 

 

 

[Tim__ 116]

On 2/21/2022 at 8:19 PM, fubar said:

Yes it's a wire connector, and no it's not connected to Q1.

Q1 is connected to the lamp.

My bad, I mis-read due to the angle of the photo. Look ok then.

 

I suggest getting the zwave controller going and retrying then.

[fubar 0]

I rma'ed the module, and installed the new one, now it's working erratically, for example, I have to press the wall switch rapidly twice to light up the lamp (relay clicking), and sometimes it's not even working, what's going on ?