Can I get a neighbours list from the HC3?

[Phil coyle 2]

Hi All,

 

I'm having intermittent problems with two devices ignoring heating schedules and just running the radiators too hot, I've eventually had to factory reset them a number of times, this then works for a few weeks and then they go off and do their own thing again.

 

This has been going on for a while and I want to be sure its not a simple communications issue (they are both a distance from the hc3, but I believed there was plenty of repeater capability to deal with that). 

 

Is it possible to get a neighbours list from the hc3, to check that what I think is happening communications-wise, is actually the case?

 

I've seen zniffers and dongles mentioned, but I think those are probably above my pay grade at the moment, I'm looking for something simpler, if there is such a thing. 

 

Phil

[Flash 103]

Hey @Phil coyle.

 

It's not an answer to you're question but AFAIK all Fibaro devices have a range test indicator. Maybe if you're devices are not Fibaro they have something simular. Should be in the device's manual.

 

You get something like this.

 

Z-Wave range tester signalling modes:

Visual indicator pulsing green – Wall Plug attempts to establish a direct communication with the main controller. If a direct communication attempt fails, the device will try to establish a routed communication, through other modules, which will be signalled by visual indicator pulsing yellow.
Visual indicator glowing green – Wall Plug communicates with the main controller directly.
Visual indicator pulsing yellow – Wall Plug tries to establish a routed communication with the main controller through other modules (repeaters).
Visual indicator glowing yellow – Wall Plug communicates with the main controller through the other modules. After 2 seconds the device will retry to establish a direct communication with the main controller, which will be signalled with visual indicator pulsing green.
Visual indicator pulsing violet – Wall Plug does communicate at the maximum distance of the Z-Wave network. If connection proves successful it will be confirmed with a yellow glow. It is not recommended to use the device at the range limit.
Visual indicator glowing red – Wall Plug is not able to connect to the main controller directly or through another Z-Wave network device (repeater).

 

 

 

There is a very simple tool. Just for indication and also not very accurate.

 

 

[petergebruers 1,268]

14 hours ago, Phil coyle said:

This has been going on for a while and I want to be sure its not a simple communications issue (they are both a distance from the hc3, but I believed there was plenty of repeater capability to deal with that). 

 

It might be more complicated than that. I wonder how many people know this: modern devices like the FGT-001 have a clock, and if you use the heating schedule, the device gets a copy of that and works autonomously... but older devices like LC12, LC13 and clones (devolo) they just ask every X minutes "what temperature should I get"

 

Based on previous posts, I'd say you have Devolo = older technology

 

Your problem is intriguing because the newer tech should follow your "heating panel" without communication, but the older would wake up ever X minutes (X = probably 10 or 15) so it could miss maybe one or 2 messages and get delayed response, but it should catch up anyway.

 

I am not sure if I can get my message across, it is rather complicated. Depends on the device, what you have in Lua, Z-Wave network, heating panel and possibly also hardware (eg "E" display on Danfoss or FGT-001 reporting errors)

 

I would not dismiss (subtle) bugs on HC2/HC3 either

 

I am going to copy/past a post from 2018... I think it is still relevant in 2022 but I have to say the FGT-001 is now on FW 4.9 instead of 4.4

 

I certainly do not want tu underestimate you, I am only trying to make sure we're on the same page

 

*****

 

 

I've been around here for a while and I think "temperature control" is a tough subject. Much tougher to grasp and understand than electricity. It is more difficult to measure and diagnose stuff...

 

I do not want to underestimate you... I just want to start at the basics to make sure everyone is at the same level of understanding by the end of this post.

 

This is copy/paste with some rework from my previous posts on this forum... I'll keep repeating and improving the explanation until everyone understands it... To my knowledge, no one on this forum has attempted to explain heating systems... until now. So please bear with me... I am not a heating specialist, but an engineer and passionate about HA so boiler control and temperature is part of my hobby. In this you will find at least partial answers to  your questions. I could have just answered those questions, but I prefer to give this complete post, because there is a certain structure to it...

 

Let's get some things straight.

 

• The FGT-001 is a THERMOSTAT. Popp, Danfoss Living Connect (aka LC-12 and LC-13), Eurotronic TRVS, they are all THERMOSTATS. Technically, they are not "valves", they are "thermostatic heads" attached to a valve. It is customary to refer to the assembly (head + valve) as a "Thermostatic Radiator Valve" or TRV.
• I will use TRV if I refer to some sort of thermostat to control water flow. I will use FGT or FGT-001 when I talk about the "Fibaro Heat Controller". I will NEVER refer to the FGT as the "HC" because that abbreviation is used quite a lot on this forum to reference the "Fibaro Home Center". If I accidentally use HC in a topic about heating, I mean "Home Center". I'll try to avoid that...
• They do NOT use your controller, to regulate temperature. They do not use any sensor measurement of your Z-Wave system. They contain their own sensor (or sensors!) and the FGT has an optional external probe. That probe is not Z-Wave, it is Bluetooth Low Energy and it is specific to the FGT-001. But since the probe measurements are transferred to your controller, you will get (accurate) temperatures from the FGT. An FGT-001 without such a probe does not report measured temperature and this is by design. The Danfoss LC-12 and LC-13 do not report temperatures either. Popp does report, because it uses a modified firmware version on Danfoss hardware. But the sensor values are inaccurate because the TRV is not in the right spot to measure room temperature. They can be used for reference.
• You tell the TRV to go to some set-point, for instance, 22 °C and it does that for you! It does not need a controller or a temperature reference, nor does it need a room thermostat and you also do not have to buy the external probe... It is an autonomous system. It uses hot water and a battery to control room temperature. You do not have to use the "heating panel" and you do not have to write any Lua code. If you take it out of its box, mount it on a TRV, it starts controlling temperature, even when it is not included on your Z-Wave network.
• The FGT-001 can either use its internal sensor or the special extra bluetooth low energy "button" external probe. The extra sensor can be in a more optimal place: the right height, no direct sunlight, nearer to the spot where you want to control temperature. With this probe, the FGT starts reporting temperature too. It reports to the TRV every 10 minutes. To conserve power and reduce network traffic, the FGT only sends temperature to the controller about every 2-3 hours when the temperature readings differ by 0.5-1 degree from the last report.
• You can turn the KNOB (or push buttons) to change the set point. No magic involved. For instance, on the FGT-001, turn the ring until it displays "cyan" and it will regulate the valve, until the temperature averages 18 °C. It does not need the extra sensor, because there is one (actually two) and the device itself has an algorithm to go to the set temperature. It also does not really need a controller, all magic is performed by the micro-controller in the TRV.
• Your TRV does not need a connection to a controller to do its job. You can install a TRV, set the thing to 24 °C if you like that, and it will start to open and close the valve. So you can check the performance of your TRV by leaving it excluded, so you can be sure it is not influenced by code or "something on your controller". This way you can be sure it is not a communication problem, or a script changing the set-point. Of course, this degrades it to "a mechanical thermostatic head" - but we managed to live with that kind of control, did we not?
• You get more interesting possibilities, with a Z-Wave controller. You can send temperature settings to the controller via your app, or using the browser interface. Like: "go to 23 °C for 4 hours". Because FGT-001 is a FLiRS (frequently listening routing slave) device, roughly one second after you change the temperature, it will take into account your new target value! So there is no "wake up" interval (and delay) like ordinary battery operated device. Older TRVs are not FLIRS so they kind of "request settings at regular intervals" - otherwise know as "wake up interval". To my best knowledge, the only other FLiRS device on the market is the "Spirit Z-Wave Plus". Danfoss has announced the LC14, it should be FLiRS based but I don't think you can buy one yet.
• Some part of slowness of the "older TRVs" comes from the wake up interval. The FGT-001 has eliminated that. It will respond to commands "almost instantly". Older TRVs ask the controller at regular intervals "what is my set-point" (target temperature). It is recommended to set wake up > 300 and < 900 and set each older TRV wake up with 10 seconds difference to avoid collisions. FLiRS devices  do not have such a setting because they do not need one (they are nearly instant).
• So, you have your TRV connected (included, added) to a Z-Wave controller? Then from now on you have a "remote control" for your thermostat. It still does not need your controller or a temperature sensor to control the temperature. Sometimes, it is more convenient to use your phone or a tablet. But it's not real automation (yet). Communication is bidirectional: the controller can set the TRVs set-point and the TRV will report the set-point if someone turns the knob. If you change the setting on the TRV, it sends that information to the controller, so you can immediately see in your app or on your browser... set-point has changed. You'll notice a timer too, this is something interesting to talk about but not right now. Just keep in mind changing the setting on the TRV acts as "an override with a timer" (it requires more explanation, I know...). The FGT-001 also reports temperature if it has an external sensor. It DOES NOT report sensor data without external sensor. To me, this makes totally sense, because the sensor is not in a good spot to measure room temperature. I have dedicated a separate topic to this. Popp is a modified Danfoss TRV. It reports temperature, but depending on your house and position of the TRV, its temperature reporting will not match the temperature at a key point in your room... If you want to know more, please read my other topic... 

  Please login or register to see this link.

• The next step would be to use "the heating panel". The heating panel is nothing but a scheduler. It contains time/temperature settings (pairs). And all it does is send the schedule to the TRV. Again, the FGT or Danfoss is fully autonomous after it receives the schedule. Older thermostats get only a set-point change. The FGT-001 gets a complete schedule. The effect is largely the same. You can override the schedule by turning the knob, or by using the app. You get manual override and holiday mode as a bonus. You need to understand the concept of zones and rooms and maybe take into account that one FGT remote sensor can send temperature to three FGT-001 heads. It might be a little bit more complex than I suggest... one thing that trips people is how "time" plays a role in overriding the schedule.
• If this still isn't enough control, you can use Lua to send a set-point to the TRV. Even in this case, you still do not need an extra temperature measurement... The FGT is FLiRS and responds almost instantly to your commands. The older valves get a setting at the next wake-up (typically set to anything between 5 an 30 minutes). Of course, you can use some sensor in the room to estimate the performance of the TRV and nudge the set-point up and down, to compensate for the fact the TRV is not in a good position to measure room temperature. I do not present scripts to do this... You can use Lua with or without the heating panel,. If you want to make your own scheduler, you can do that, no need to configure the heating panel.
• The setting "The main thermostat:" on the  "room settings tab" can be used by Lua scenes, but I it is not used in any other way.
• The setting "The main temperature sensor:" on the  "room settings tab" selects the sensor for the temperature gauge in the top left corner of a room (app + browser) for display purposes. It does not in influence temperature control, unless you use or write Lua scene(s).
• All the TRV needs is... a steady source of hot water and battery. And this brings us to the issue of room thermostat and boiler control. The boiler should take care of the hot water problem. It has a boiler thermostat, and possibly some settings and maybe an external probe. You see, I do not mention a "room thermostat" when I talk about boiler control, this is intentional. I have discussed this in the past and will no longer do so.
• For sake of completeness... other TRV systems exist. If you are interested in a mains operated, completely silent actuator (not a thermostat!) look up "thermoelectric actuator". notice: "actuator" is not "thermostat"... You need a thermostat to control that kind of actuator. It is something to keep in mind: all Z-Wave TRVs make some noise!
• There is one rather peculiar device on the market, which causes a lot of confusion: "Danfoss RS 014G0160 Thermostat". On a HC 4.160 you can use this as a kind of remote control. It does not act as a real thermostat, because the device does not control any output (on a home center). You can use Lua to intercept "value" and "timestamp" as with any other thermostat.
• Also for sake of completeness...You can turn a sensor and a switch (relay) into a basic thermostat using "linked device". It only works with a relay, not a thermostat. I am not a big fan of this setup, if communication fails and the relay gets stuck "open" or "close" your room might get very hot or cold. You can by thermostats with a relay instead.
• FGT-001 fimwares up to 4.4 have issues. Version 4.4 has been released, but it is soon to evaluate the improvements. Keep an eye on the specific FGT-001 forum.

To do what you ask... Have a look at:

 

 

14 hours ago, Phil coyle said:

Is it possible to get a neighbours list from the hc3, to check that what I think is happening communications-wise, is actually the case?

A list of neighbors is less useful than you think because it does NOT tell you which route a packet used.

 

That's why people like me keep saying "Zniffer"

 

14 hours ago, Phil coyle said:

I've seen zniffers and dongles mentioned, but I think those are probably above my pay grade at the moment, I'm looking for something simpler, if there is such a thing. 

It looks scary but there are always people willing to help.

You do not notice this on the forum because captures contain sensitive data and people use Private Messaging.

 

I totally understand what you are saying and I agree you should try everything else first. Did you try "Sanity Check Script" and cga014's monitor script?

 

Anyway, I would say you are not desperate enough to try Zniffer yet. And I don't know you enough yet, to give advice.

[Phil coyle 2]

On 2/21/2022 at 9:36 PM, Flash said:

Hey @Phil coyle.

 

It's not an answer to you're question but AFAIK all Fibaro devices have a range test indicator. Maybe if you're devices are not Fibaro they have something simular. Should be in the device's manual.

 

You get something like this.

 

Z-Wave range tester signalling modes:

Visual indicator pulsing green – Wall Plug attempts to establish a direct communication with the main controller. If a direct communication attempt fails, the device will try to establish a routed communication, through other modules, which will be signalled by visual indicator pulsing yellow.
Visual indicator glowing green – Wall Plug communicates with the main controller directly.
Visual indicator pulsing yellow – Wall Plug tries to establish a routed communication with the main controller through other modules (repeaters).
Visual indicator glowing yellow – Wall Plug communicates with the main controller through the other modules. After 2 seconds the device will retry to establish a direct communication with the main controller, which will be signalled with visual indicator pulsing green.
Visual indicator pulsing violet – Wall Plug does communicate at the maximum distance of the Z-Wave network. If connection proves successful it will be confirmed with a yellow glow. It is not recommended to use the device at the range limit.
Visual indicator glowing red – Wall Plug is not able to connect to the main controller directly or through another Z-Wave network device (repeater).

 

 

 

There is a very simple tool. Just for indication and also not very accurate.

 

 

Thanks flash,

 

They are Aeotec repeaters and they do have an option to check connectivity, however, unless they are directly connected to the HC3 they wont report connectivity if they are downstream of the hc3. (bit strange, but that's what the manual says)

[Phil coyle 2]

On 2/22/2022 at 12:07 PM, petergebruers said:

 

It might be more complicated than that. I wonder how many people know this: modern devices like the FGT-001 have a clock, and if you use the heating schedule, the device gets a copy of that and works autonomously... but older devices like LC12, LC13 and clones (devolo) they just ask every X minutes "what temperature should I get"

 

Based on previous posts, I'd say you have Devolo = older technology

 

Your problem is intriguing because the newer tech should follow your "heating panel" without communication, but the older would wake up ever X minutes (X = probably 10 or 15) so it could miss maybe one or 2 messages and get delayed response, but it should catch up anyway.

 

I am not sure if I can get my message across, it is rather complicated. Depends on the device, what you have in Lua, Z-Wave network, heating panel and possibly also hardware (eg "E" display on Danfoss or FGT-001 reporting errors)

 

I would not dismiss (subtle) bugs on HC2/HC3 either

 

I am going to copy/past a post from 2018... I think it is still relevant in 2022 but I have to say the FGT-001 is now on FW 4.9 instead of 4.4

 

I certainly do not want tu underestimate you, I am only trying to make sure we're on the same page

 

*****

 

 

 

I've been around here for a while and I think "temperature control" is a tough subject. Much tougher to grasp and understand than electricity. It is more difficult to measure and diagnose stuff...

 

I do not want to underestimate you... I just want to start at the basics to make sure everyone is at the same level of understanding by the end of this post.

 

This is copy/paste with some rework from my previous posts on this forum... I'll keep repeating and improving the explanation until everyone understands it... To my knowledge, no one on this forum has attempted to explain heating systems... until now. So please bear with me... I am not a heating specialist, but an engineer and passionate about HA so boiler control and temperature is part of my hobby. In this you will find at least partial answers to  your questions. I could have just answered those questions, but I prefer to give this complete post, because there is a certain structure to it...

 

Let's get some things straight.

 

• The FGT-001 is a THERMOSTAT. Popp, Danfoss Living Connect (aka LC-12 and LC-13), Eurotronic TRVS, they are all THERMOSTATS. Technically, they are not "valves", they are "thermostatic heads" attached to a valve. It is customary to refer to the assembly (head + valve) as a "Thermostatic Radiator Valve" or TRV.
• I will use TRV if I refer to some sort of thermostat to control water flow. I will use FGT or FGT-001 when I talk about the "Fibaro Heat Controller". I will NEVER refer to the FGT as the "HC" because that abbreviation is used quite a lot on this forum to reference the "Fibaro Home Center". If I accidentally use HC in a topic about heating, I mean "Home Center". I'll try to avoid that...
• They do NOT use your controller, to regulate temperature. They do not use any sensor measurement of your Z-Wave system. They contain their own sensor (or sensors!) and the FGT has an optional external probe. That probe is not Z-Wave, it is Bluetooth Low Energy and it is specific to the FGT-001. But since the probe measurements are transferred to your controller, you will get (accurate) temperatures from the FGT. An FGT-001 without such a probe does not report measured temperature and this is by design. The Danfoss LC-12 and LC-13 do not report temperatures either. Popp does report, because it uses a modified firmware version on Danfoss hardware. But the sensor values are inaccurate because the TRV is not in the right spot to measure room temperature. They can be used for reference.
• You tell the TRV to go to some set-point, for instance, 22 °C and it does that for you! It does not need a controller or a temperature reference, nor does it need a room thermostat and you also do not have to buy the external probe... It is an autonomous system. It uses hot water and a battery to control room temperature. You do not have to use the "heating panel" and you do not have to write any Lua code. If you take it out of its box, mount it on a TRV, it starts controlling temperature, even when it is not included on your Z-Wave network.
• The FGT-001 can either use its internal sensor or the special extra bluetooth low energy "button" external probe. The extra sensor can be in a more optimal place: the right height, no direct sunlight, nearer to the spot where you want to control temperature. With this probe, the FGT starts reporting temperature too. It reports to the TRV every 10 minutes. To conserve power and reduce network traffic, the FGT only sends temperature to the controller about every 2-3 hours when the temperature readings differ by 0.5-1 degree from the last report.
• You can turn the KNOB (or push buttons) to change the set point. No magic involved. For instance, on the FGT-001, turn the ring until it displays "cyan" and it will regulate the valve, until the temperature averages 18 °C. It does not need the extra sensor, because there is one (actually two) and the device itself has an algorithm to go to the set temperature. It also does not really need a controller, all magic is performed by the micro-controller in the TRV.
• Your TRV does not need a connection to a controller to do its job. You can install a TRV, set the thing to 24 °C if you like that, and it will start to open and close the valve. So you can check the performance of your TRV by leaving it excluded, so you can be sure it is not influenced by code or "something on your controller". This way you can be sure it is not a communication problem, or a script changing the set-point. Of course, this degrades it to "a mechanical thermostatic head" - but we managed to live with that kind of control, did we not?
• You get more interesting possibilities, with a Z-Wave controller. You can send temperature settings to the controller via your app, or using the browser interface. Like: "go to 23 °C for 4 hours". Because FGT-001 is a FLiRS (frequently listening routing slave) device, roughly one second after you change the temperature, it will take into account your new target value! So there is no "wake up" interval (and delay) like ordinary battery operated device. Older TRVs are not FLIRS so they kind of "request settings at regular intervals" - otherwise know as "wake up interval". To my best knowledge, the only other FLiRS device on the market is the "Spirit Z-Wave Plus". Danfoss has announced the LC14, it should be FLiRS based but I don't think you can buy one yet.
• Some part of slowness of the "older TRVs" comes from the wake up interval. The FGT-001 has eliminated that. It will respond to commands "almost instantly". Older TRVs ask the controller at regular intervals "what is my set-point" (target temperature). It is recommended to set wake up > 300 and < 900 and set each older TRV wake up with 10 seconds difference to avoid collisions. FLiRS devices  do not have such a setting because they do not need one (they are nearly instant).
• So, you have your TRV connected (included, added) to a Z-Wave controller? Then from now on you have a "remote control" for your thermostat. It still does not need your controller or a temperature sensor to control the temperature. Sometimes, it is more convenient to use your phone or a tablet. But it's not real automation (yet). Communication is bidirectional: the controller can set the TRVs set-point and the TRV will report the set-point if someone turns the knob. If you change the setting on the TRV, it sends that information to the controller, so you can immediately see in your app or on your browser... set-point has changed. You'll notice a timer too, this is something interesting to talk about but not right now. Just keep in mind changing the setting on the TRV acts as "an override with a timer" (it requires more explanation, I know...). The FGT-001 also reports temperature if it has an external sensor. It DOES NOT report sensor data without external sensor. To me, this makes totally sense, because the sensor is not in a good spot to measure room temperature. I have dedicated a separate topic to this. Popp is a modified Danfoss TRV. It reports temperature, but depending on your house and position of the TRV, its temperature reporting will not match the temperature at a key point in your room... If you want to know more, please read my other topic... 

  Please login or register to see this link.

• The next step would be to use "the heating panel". The heating panel is nothing but a scheduler. It contains time/temperature settings (pairs). And all it does is send the schedule to the TRV. Again, the FGT or Danfoss is fully autonomous after it receives the schedule. Older thermostats get only a set-point change. The FGT-001 gets a complete schedule. The effect is largely the same. You can override the schedule by turning the knob, or by using the app. You get manual override and holiday mode as a bonus. You need to understand the concept of zones and rooms and maybe take into account that one FGT remote sensor can send temperature to three FGT-001 heads. It might be a little bit more complex than I suggest... one thing that trips people is how "time" plays a role in overriding the schedule.
• If this still isn't enough control, you can use Lua to send a set-point to the TRV. Even in this case, you still do not need an extra temperature measurement... The FGT is FLiRS and responds almost instantly to your commands. The older valves get a setting at the next wake-up (typically set to anything between 5 an 30 minutes). Of course, you can use some sensor in the room to estimate the performance of the TRV and nudge the set-point up and down, to compensate for the fact the TRV is not in a good position to measure room temperature. I do not present scripts to do this... You can use Lua with or without the heating panel,. If you want to make your own scheduler, you can do that, no need to configure the heating panel.
• The setting "The main thermostat:" on the  "room settings tab" can be used by Lua scenes, but I it is not used in any other way.
• The setting "The main temperature sensor:" on the  "room settings tab" selects the sensor for the temperature gauge in the top left corner of a room (app + browser) for display purposes. It does not in influence temperature control, unless you use or write Lua scene(s).
• All the TRV needs is... a steady source of hot water and battery. And this brings us to the issue of room thermostat and boiler control. The boiler should take care of the hot water problem. It has a boiler thermostat, and possibly some settings and maybe an external probe. You see, I do not mention a "room thermostat" when I talk about boiler control, this is intentional. I have discussed this in the past and will no longer do so.
• For sake of completeness... other TRV systems exist. If you are interested in a mains operated, completely silent actuator (not a thermostat!) look up "thermoelectric actuator". notice: "actuator" is not "thermostat"... You need a thermostat to control that kind of actuator. It is something to keep in mind: all Z-Wave TRVs make some noise!
• There is one rather peculiar device on the market, which causes a lot of confusion: "Danfoss RS 014G0160 Thermostat". On a HC 4.160 you can use this as a kind of remote control. It does not act as a real thermostat, because the device does not control any output (on a home center). You can use Lua to intercept "value" and "timestamp" as with any other thermostat.
• Also for sake of completeness...You can turn a sensor and a switch (relay) into a basic thermostat using "linked device". It only works with a relay, not a thermostat. I am not a big fan of this setup, if communication fails and the relay gets stuck "open" or "close" your room might get very hot or cold. You can by thermostats with a relay instead.
• FGT-001 fimwares up to 4.4 have issues. Version 4.4 has been released, but it is soon to evaluate the improvements. Keep an eye on the specific FGT-001 forum.

To do what you ask... Have a look at:

 

 

A list of neighbors is less useful than you think because it does NOT tell you which route a packet used.

 

That's why people like me keep saying "Zniffer"

 

It looks scary but there are always people willing to help.

You do not notice this on the forum because captures contain sensitive data and people use Private Messaging.

 

I totally understand what you are saying and I agree you should try everything else first. Did you try "Sanity Check Script" and cga014's monitor script?

 

Anyway, I would say you are not desperate enough to try Zniffer yet. And I don't know you enough yet, to give advice.

 

Thanks for that 

Please login or register to see this link.

 

Please login or register to see this link.

 

Both of the devices which are behaving strangely are at the "end of the line" that is the furthest distance from the HC3, it seems more than a coincidence that it is these two devices which are the problem, so I wanted to rue out connection issue first.

 

Your post from 2018 is very informative.

 

I feel I need to be confident regarding connectivity before I get any deeper into it.

 

I have seen a number of QA's which seem to offer some insight, but when I download them the are .lua files, and I cant find out how to run them n the HC3.

 

Phil

 

 

 

On 2/21/2022 at 9:36 PM, Flash said:

Hey @Phil coyle.

 

It's not an answer to you're question but AFAIK all Fibaro devices have a range test indicator. Maybe if you're devices are not Fibaro they have something simular. Should be in the device's manual.

 

You get something like this.

 

Z-Wave range tester signalling modes:

Visual indicator pulsing green – Wall Plug attempts to establish a direct communication with the main controller. If a direct communication attempt fails, the device will try to establish a routed communication, through other modules, which will be signalled by visual indicator pulsing yellow.
Visual indicator glowing green – Wall Plug communicates with the main controller directly.
Visual indicator pulsing yellow – Wall Plug tries to establish a routed communication with the main controller through other modules (repeaters).
Visual indicator glowing yellow – Wall Plug communicates with the main controller through the other modules. After 2 seconds the device will retry to establish a direct communication with the main controller, which will be signalled with visual indicator pulsing green.
Visual indicator pulsing violet – Wall Plug does communicate at the maximum distance of the Z-Wave network. If connection proves successful it will be confirmed with a yellow glow. It is not recommended to use the device at the range limit.
Visual indicator glowing red – Wall Plug is not able to connect to the main controller directly or through another Z-Wave network device (repeater).

 

 

 

There is a very simple tool. Just for indication and also not very accurate.

 

 

Thanks flash,

 

They are Aeotec repeaters and they do have an option to check connectivity, however, unless they are directly connected to the HC3 they wont report connectivity if they are downstream of the hc3. (bit strange, but that's what the manual says)