Smart Implant with CAME ZL65 gate motor

[snake1977 0]

I would appreciate some assistance, please, with getting a Smart Implant to control my front gates. I managed to get my garage door wired up successfully, so am really pleased with myself about that, and now I'm chomping at the bit to get the gates sorted, but am coming up short. I'm not an electrician at all, so please be gentle.

 

The gates are powered by Motostar motors, and I've opened up the housing and there's a CAME ZL65 control panel inside. The control panel instructions are available here: 

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 So far, so good.

 

The first thing I've tried to do is get the Smart Implant powered up. Page 5 of the ZL65 manual seems to suggest that plugging P (red) into #10 and GND (blue) into #11 should do the trick. However, I'm not entirely sure if 24V AC/DC (as specified in the manual) will work with the Smart Implant. Anyway, I don't get any life out of the Smart Implant and I can't add it to the network.

 

I have also tried plugging the outputs into the control panel (i.e. OUT1 into #2 and #7, as on page 6 of the manual), just in case there is power to the Smart Implant. But that doesn't appear to do anything either (could be the lack of power; could be the wrong wiring).

 

FYI at the moment I'm just trying to get the implant to fire off a simple on/off impulse when closed. If I can get it to work, then I may need to configure an input to figure out whether the gate is open or closed (as I've managed with my garage door), but that is a secondary priority.

 

What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 11, 2024 by bensmaje
typo

[Łukasz997 117]

My answer is based on my experience with CAME BX, which has similar main board. I hope that your device may be the same (meaning voltages), but I'm not 100% sure:

24V is suitable to power smart implant, but it has to be DC (direct current). The pins with 24V you mentioned is probably AC (asynchronous current) and it will not work. The workaround is to buy a micro-power-supply 220V (or 230 in UK) AC -> 24V DC. I Poland there are a choice of this, I hope in UK too. The 220V AC cables of micro power supply have to be connected with power incoming to the board. **STAY SAFE!** doing this, of course with relay to off position.

The bigger problem is with the gate "state" controlling. Simple command sequence Start one direction-Stop-Start other direction can be achieved by "out pins" (there are a two of a kind) of smart implant connected to the proper pins on the mainboard (shortcut activate/stop the motor).

But you have no control if the gate is open or close - this is much harder do to by yourself. The main board offer a signal from "limit switches", but it can't be used to short-cut the "in pins" of smart implant, because there's a voltage on it and there more... this is asynchronous current.

To use "in pins" (binary switch) you have to support it with potential-free signal.

 

After all, I hope that you will be able to do basic handling of the gate easily.

Please remember, this is a work with dangerous voltage, consider calling an electrician.

 

[snake1977 0]

Thank you, Łukasz, that is a big help.

 

It is perhaps worth me updating this thread, so that others can benefit. I am pleased to report that I have managed to get the gate working

 

There are three steps here, and I've managed to solve two of them.

 

Step 1 is powering the Smart Implant. As Łukasz points out, the SI doesn't work with the "24V AC/DC" supplied by the CAME control panel (not sure why they call it AC/DC when it would appear to be AC). So I used a 240V AC to 24V DC transformer (which was in fact a spare (non-dimmable) LED driver that I had lying around. Turns out they do the job admirably).

 

So I carefully plugged the LED driver into the mains supply (with the power turned off at the fuse board) and then connected the Smart Implant to the LED driver outputs (red to +; blue to -).

 

Step 2 is connecting the Smart Implant outputs to the correct terminals of the control panel. Turns out my original post was correct. i.e. terminals #2 and #7 (please look at the control panel instructions for this).

 

Once I'd flicked the fuse board back on, the Smart Implant LED came on and things starting to happen. A quick fiddle with some of the Smart Implant parameters (e.g. parameter 156 to 1s), and I can now control the gate via the Home Center. Exactly what I was hoping to achieve, I'm a very happy bunny.

 

Step 3 is my next challenge, which is what Łukasz has also explained, i.e. figuring out how to work out if the gate is open or closed. I'm thinking of getting a Fibaro Door Sensor or something similar that is waterproof for outside use. But I can take a bit of time over this.

 

 

[Martin_N 154]

@snake1977

Hello.

On to your third point.

Once you have the SmartImplant at the gate, use any external magnetic contact for security systems that accommodates the working distance. I usually glue them to the ridge sheet from the upper smooth side so that they do not interfere when the gate is moved.

Then connect the wires to IN1 (IN2) and GND of the Smart Imlpant.

It is unnecessary to pay a second time for another ZWAVE device.

 

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[Łukasz997 117]

The third-part magnetic contact is good idea.

Please consider, that even if you assemble the contacts and will know the gate position (open, close, partially open) you will probably need some programming to handle the gate.

maybe your drive allows to force close or open, but I don't think so.

I think that you can only do a sequence: move one direction, stop, move other direction by shortcut proper pins. And when o.e. you need to open the gate it may first start to close or - when closing - spot an obstacle and do not finish movement. It depends on the last operation before.

This will need LUA scene to handle - to ensure that action was done to the very end.

 

Also, there are extension cards for some gate drives (o.e. Hormann, quite popular in Poland), which provides info about gate status and can send specific command to the drive (open, close). Worth checking if there's any for CAME.

[snake1977 0]

On 3/18/2024 at 6:22 AM, Martin_N said:

@snake1977

Hello.

On to your third point.

Once you have the SmartImplant at the gate, use any external magnetic contact for security systems that accommodates the working distance. I usually glue them to the ridge sheet from the upper smooth side so that they do not interfere when the gate is moved.

Then connect the wires to IN1 (IN2) and GND of the Smart Imlpant.

It is unnecessary to pay a second time for another ZWAVE device.

 

Please login or register to see this spoiler.

 

Hi Martin, I have installed a magnetic switch as per your suggestions, but can't get it to work. I think it's a parameters issue.

 

The switch is attached to the gate swing arm. When the gate is open, the switch is closed - and vice versa.

 

How do I know in HC3 whether the switch is closed or open? I think I should be looking at the 'Binary Input' device, but that doesn't seem to change when the gate is opened/closed.

 

 

Edited March 23, 2024 by snake1977

[Martin_N 154]

@snake1977

1) turn off local protection

2) Look at the Binary Sensor section

3) set parameter 20 to 1 (normally open)

I have a note about that. By default, sensors are used in Normally Closed mode (idle- door closed = sensor closed)