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Question

Posted

Hi everyone,

I’d like to add a Fibaro Smart Implant (FGBS-222) in parallel with an existing 24 V momentary wall switch that controls my shutters. The wall switch currently takes a 24 V supply and, when pressed, sends 24 V to terminal 2A (open) or 2B (close).

Current idea

My plan is to power the Smart Implant from the same 24 V supply as the wall switch/controller (P = +24 V, GND = 0 V). The Smart Implant’s relay outputs would then “simulate” pressing the wall switch by switching +24 V onto the same control terminals:

  • P → +24 V supply
  • GND → 0 V / GND
  • OUT1 → 2A (open)
  • OUT2 → 2B (close)

Inputs (IN1/IN2) would remain unused.

The Smart Implant documentation says it can control devices by opening/closing its output contacts independently of inputs, and it supports a 9–30 V supply, so powering it from 24 V should be fine.

Wiring question (OUT1/OUT2)

What I’m unsure about is the relay wiring detail: is it sufficient to connect only a single wire from OUT1 to 2A (and OUT2 to 2B), assuming the other side of those outputs is internally referenced, or do I need to wire a return/common as well?

(From other Smart Implant examples, it seems the external circuit typically needs a complete loop through the relay contact, i.e., the relay closes between a “common” and the target input, but I’m not 100% sure how that maps to my shutter controller terminals.)

Configuration question

If inputs stay unused, what parameters should be changed so the outputs behave like a momentary button press (short pulse), rather than staying on?

From the parameter list, it looks like I should use the output “auto off” timers so OUT1/OUT2 switch off automatically after a short time (pulse), but I’m unsure what value is recommended for shutter controller inputs.

Any feedback?

  • Does the approach (powering from 24 V and using OUT1/OUT2 to drive 2A/2B) make sense electrically?
  • For the relay outputs: do I need to wire an additional GND/common to the output side to complete the circuit?
  • Which output settings (especially auto-off / pulse duration) are typically used for this kind of shutter control?

If anyone has done something similar (Smart Implant + 24 V shutter controller / momentary switch in parallel), a quick wiring sketch or parameter guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

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3 answers to this question

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  • 0
Posted

First, you should check what current passes through the momentary switch when you press it. Is it just a signal or does the full motor current pass through? The Smart Implant can support up to 150mA.

 

Second, assuming the above checks out ok, you should wire the Smart Implant relay outputs in parallel with the momentary switch terminals. For this you will need two pieces of wire. Also connect up the red and blue power connections to 24V and 0V respectively. 

 

  • 0
  • Inquirer
  • Posted

    Hi Tim, 
     

    Thanks for the input. Here the actual wiring I am testing:

     

    If I measure the Voltage on red out 1 (so first slot out 1) leaving second slot out 1 empty, I cannot measure any voltage.

     

    The target is to have 24v for a second or two on out 1 and out 2 respectively. 

     

    Or am I on the wrong track here?

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    • 0
    Posted

    Ok to confirm my understanding, you have two momentary switches, one that opens the shutters and one that closes them.  Here's my thoughts on the wiring. 

    First option just provides a 24V signal, I dont't think this will be useful unless I misunderstood your setup.

    Second option puts the Smart Implant outputs in parallel with your buttons.  Though I am worried that your switches currently carry the full motor current, and this will fry your smart implant.

    So Option 3 includes slave relays.  (You might need to do some research on relays, effectively they are an electronic switch, in this case they handle the high current from the motors.  Something like this 

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    .  You might want a different model with screw terminals on all connections).

    After you've wired it up, you'll need to write some code to switch the outputs in the manner you need.

    Lastly, you could also consider a Qubino Flush Shutter DC device instead of the Smart Implant, relays and coding (though not sure if Qubino are still making them).  Less mucking around that way; unfortunately Fibaro don't make an equivalent.

     

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