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Question

Posted (edited)

My HC2 will not boot af power failure.:-(

When the power comes back the blue leds starts flashing but the process stops when all 8 LEDs are turned on.

I have checked the bios in the HC2 is set to Power on "After power failure".
The Warm Boot function (pressing the on / off switch on the rear panel) restart the HC2 and provided access to the BIOS.
But the Cold Boot function (the power supply is dis- and reconnected) do not work. O
nly 2 times out of 10 attempts I was able to connect the BIOS settings at a Cold Boot.
I also have tried to change Power on setting to "last statement" but it did not help. Then the BIOS was set back to Power on "After power failure".
Since there has only been one power cut since I bought the HC2 center januar 2016, it must be open to question whether it is a manufacturing defect?
Fibaro informs in a service video: "After this (setting the BIOS to:
Power on "After power failure) Center should start correctly. Otherwise, it is damaged and you should return it to service".
Is there someone who knows if there are more repair opportunities or whether the device should be returned to service / repair?

 






 

Edited by severin

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Posted (edited)

Thank you for this thread. Very useful.

 

Before starting I recommend of course to save a cloud backup and a local backup for safety.

 

I got the battery on eBay (Item

Please login or register to see this link.

).

The battery in place (dated 2018-04, replaced 2025-01) had 0 volts, and was not working since mid 2024... I was a bit cavalier as I have a 45 min UPS that usually does the trick.

 

Unfortunately I also experienced the brittle original plug breaking apart, despite using 2 spudgers to reduce the deformations on the plug.

And it took me a couple of hours to get all the pieces out (it is on the underside that there is a "tooth" that holds the residual plug in place).

I had to use magnification and a finally get a surgical foreign body remover to get hold of the inferior part, after prying microscopic pieces out with a surgical scaler. A real pain.

Be careful not to deform components on the PCB and do not scratch it!

 

I believe that it is wise and WAY simpler to solder a new battery on the existing cable, and for the next time I am going to solder a CR3032 battery case, something like eBay item

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likely placing it under the posterior aluminum cover so to avoid to have to completely take apart each time the HC2 box to replace the battery.

 

After replacing the battering and using double tape to attach it to the network connector, I went into recovery, rebooted right away and it was business as usual.

Cutting the power and restoring it now reboots the HC2!

 

If the HC2 with a new battery does not restart after power loss, there is a tutorial on how to check the HC2 BIOS settings (what to do after power loss) see below: 

 

 

Some notes about disassembling the HC2 box:

  1. Both end covers need to be removed, get an appropriate size Philips screwdriver with a strong handle, the side opposite to the connectors had tightly (glued?) screws.
  2. The same goes for the bottom 4 screws.
  3. You can start to GENTLY move the board toward the bottom (connector side) making sure not to rip out some of the many wires. It will be necessary to unplug the connector on the left side of the box for the LEDs (red box in the picture) and the antenna connector, either pulling the delicate plug on the PCB (bue box in the picture) or by unscrewing the 8 mm nut (second picture).
    Please note how elegantly the connector pins have been bent at the factory to allow for the placement of the antenna...

    Please login or register to see this attachment.


    Please login or register to see this attachment.

  4. Careful when pulling out the PCB, as 2/3 of the way out there is a short cable that will come under tension, it is attached to the "right" side of the box - for the on/off and recovery switches and on a secondary PCB on the "left" over the RAM, gently unplug it.

Proceed in reverse to reassemble.

 

I hope that this may be of help. Good luck with the connector - that is the VERY painful part...

 

Edited by GLS

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