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FGR-222 roller shutter 2 Neutral and Load cable size



What cable size is needed to connect the main into N and L port? Does it need to be thicker? I have bought 1 and it burnt after few days, made the motor burnt out too.  Both are replaced eventually.  But yesterday, while setting up another new roller shutter 2,  during exclusion process (triple click b-unit) it suddenly boomed in front of me after couple minutes !


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Edited by Sirhideo
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I don't think your cable has something to do with this, if your Fibaro module and motor burnt ... it's seems you have a to high voltage. Maybe @petergebruers can answer ... his the expert on this forum ;D

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5 hours ago, Sjekke said:

I don't think your cable has something to do with this, if your Fibaro module and motor burnt ... it's seems you have a to high voltage. Maybe @petergebruers can answer ... his the expert on this forum ;D


Thank you for the compliment... I see myself more as an "enthousiast-amateur".


You have to follow local regulations. I do not have a clue what that might be in Hong Kong... It is determined by the size of your circuit breaker... In Belgium you have to use at least 1.5 mm2 copper on a 10A breaker and 2.5 mm2 if the breaker is 16A. More regulations apply, but this gives you an idea.


Hong Kong has 220 V mains 50 Hz.


Can you check your voltage? In Belgium some houses have 230/400 V so if you accidentally connect two phases instead of L+N, that is not good... You might also have a "floating neutral" but then you probably have strange issues on other devices as well. Blown bulbs, for instance.



Edited by petergebruers
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  • @petergebruers thank you for your reply. We only have single phase here.  The circuit breaker is 68A in total and what I understand is that every socket is 13A by default, except the appliance like air con, refrigerator, electric cookers etc which we have 16-20A there. voltage is 220v for sure.


    In fact, I have couple roller shutters at home, others are working perfectly fine. Only this strange socket burnt two module for some reasons. Other 2 blinds and roller shutters share the same 13A circuit.


    I have compared the wiring, only difference is that the technician used 2 very thin wire (1mm around) to connect N L of the shutters, so if I replace another shutter and use same wire it burnt?


     I am curious, if the wire are too thin, does this cause the burnt? I am not sure if my understanding is correct, overloading cause fuse blown on the appliance and may cause the circuit breaker jumps. In this case no way, because the 13A here only shares 1 hue bulb, 3 x 0.8watt blind motor and 3 shutters. However this is what exactly happened at my home, breaker jumps, roller shutter burnt.


    If the appliance requires more power but the circuit cannot provide, the wire may get hot and worst case is on fire?  This is not my case. I see the roller shutter spec, it needs 1.7A.


    I am sorry this is more like an electricity question rather than fibaro module support. However, I am worrying about if there is anything wrong in the 13A circuit. I do hope the burnt is caused by those 2 thin wires... This is an easy replacement. But I am scared from the burnt and have no guts to put the third shutter in without understanding what causes these burns.

    Edited by Sirhideo
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    The fuse (circuit breaker) protects the wire. It does not protect the appliance!


    If regulations in Hong Kong allow 1 mm2 on the fuse of THAT particular 1mm wire in your house, then you are following the rules. I cannot answer the question, please check with an electrician.


    Please note that I've mentioned copper wire. In China they produce "copper clad aluminium". Because Al is not as good as Cu, you need thicker wires. Copper clad looks like coppr, but if you scrape off the copper layer it will show a silver colour. Again, I do not know if it is allowed by your regulations, and what diameter would be allowed.


    If the wire is too thin or not copper, it can cause injury and fire.


    Maybe one day you forget you have thin wire, and you add a heavy load? Not good. The breaker current determines the wire diameter...


    But your problem is your module causes a short circuit, right? And now it is dead? Is it still shorted if you test it? Maybe this is a test that should be done by your electrician...


    Determining what caused failure after the fact is difficult... Overvoltage? Faulty neutral? Bad luck? Wiring fault? Degraded by transient voltage? And I probably forget a few!

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