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FGS223 together with LED light


Roland declerck
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Question

I will replace some TL light in my garage with 2 PROLIGHT LED batten - 14W - (coupled) (non-dimmable). 
The current light is connected to the Fibaro FGS223. 

 

In the manual there is the following warning:

When connecting the Switch 2 act in accordance with the following rules:

• Do not connect loads greater than those recommended!

• Do not connect types of loads other than resistive and incandescent! 

 

If i understand this correctly i can not use the FGS223 and i should replace it by a dimmer althought i do not want to dim at all?

Or can i still use the fgs223 as the load is quite small (2x14w) and the risk on damage is basically non existing?

 

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That risk is real. Please read a few posts here:

 

Then,if you read the last posts, you"ll see it still happens on the FGS-223 with some loads. Although there are fewer posts about this module than the older versions. The 223 has bigger relays and does "zero cross switching" but still the specification in the manual is real.

 

It is not about power, it is all about "inrush current".

 

Here's a possible solution. To be put in series with your load... Please read the detailed instructions before buying...

 

Please login or register to see this link.

Edited by petergebruers
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  • As it might be ok as such with the newer FGS223,  i go for the LED being switched by FGS223.


    This is based on the assumption :

    - that using fgs223 for LED does not result unsave situation eg fire, explosion etc

    - if contacts sticks together most likely the problem can be solved bij given the switch a good knock. 

     

    If this approach result problems eg sticking contacts i will go for the suggested solution.

     

    Or am i taking to much risk by taking this approach?

     

     

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    16 hours ago, Roland declerck said:

    This is based on the assumption :

    - that using fgs223 for LED does not result unsave situation eg fire, explosion etc

    - if contacts sticks together most likely the problem can be solved bij given the switch a good knock. 

    Correct. Thereare  very, very few reports of people who cannot dislodge the contacts (on this forum). It is possible though...

     

    16 hours ago, Roland declerck said:

    if this approach result problems eg sticking contacts i will go for the suggested solution.

     

    It is a pragmatic solution...

     

    On the other hand, the NTC might prolong the contact life, which may or may not matter depending on how often you turn on the load.

     

    As soon as I found out that my "low cost 10W and 20W lights" caused welding, I added an NTC to all of them (five) and that was 5 years ago. No issues. But I also have plenty of FGS-221 connected to 5 W - 10 W maybe 15 W Osram and Philips LEDs and they also never stick (weld)...

    Edited by petergebruers
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    I have been using single switch for a long time now. It is running on 12 leds . No problem so far. Thanks to petergebruers for the knowledge and guidance. If you want to run leds on a relay only try single switch . Not double.  If you cant change the device then petergebruer solution is a way to go. 

    Edited by Jibran
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  • 1 hour ago, petergebruers said:

    On the other hand, the NTC might prolong the contact life, which may or may not matter depending on how often you turn on the load.

     

     

    I have no experience with NTC!  How can i define which NTC i should use?

    The ESB1 recommended in the first reply is this a kind of NTC?

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    I think not many people have experience with NTC, that is OK. Yes, the ESB1 is contains an NTC and I recommend this device. It has got a fuse, it is in a nice package, it's got wires... You can read about the challenges of mounting an NTC in my other topic... I do not recommend it, and regulations in Belgium forbid that kind of DIY solution.

     

    32 minutes ago, Jibran said:

    Thanks to petergebruers for the knowledge and guidance

    Thank you. I am flattered.

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    Adding a bigger relay after the FGS is another possibility, but then you get no power/energy monitoring. If you have to switch pumps or motors, that is recommended. Or the Aeotec "heavy duty" switch.

     

    The official advice for driving LED loads is ... FGD-212. It was posted somewhere by Fibaro on this forum. It is an electronic switch, one that is well protected so the FGD does not "degrade" by the startup of lamps. On the other hand, if I would attach "a loadthat welds relay contacts"  (as mentioned in post #1 of my other topic), then it would simply report "overcurrent" and refuse to turn on. So you know it is the load's fault, but it still does not turn on. And, there is another possible issue with that as well. The "Dimmer 2" passes a small amount of current and makes some lights glow faintly or "blink". Then you have to add a "bypass".

    Edited by petergebruers
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    In one of my area, i have used a small dpdt relay between the load and a fibaro relay . Load consist of 20 7w leds. It is working fine. 

     

    Dimmer can also be used to switch on and off the non dimmable light or led. But one has to consider to stay in between the parameters set for the led.

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