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Found 23 results

  1. Configuration: - RGBW led connected to RGBW 2 - HC3 - 230V->24V power supply - monostable wall switch - iOS mobile app 1. In this configuration system not use white led channel instead of this system mix RGB to get white - bug or feature ? 2. You can of course define by yourself white colour in HC3 and use this but there is disadvantages. When you turn off light from monostable wall switch then you are not able to turn on led from mobile app. Opposite scenario looks the same. When you turn off light from mobile app you are not able to turn on from monostable wall switch. Bug or featur ? PS I'm newbie fibaro user however it looks that HC3 is maximum in early alfa version it shouldn't be marked as a market ready product.
  2. Hi all, I'm looking for the best options for outdoor LED coloured spots / lights for use with HC2. Not looking at LED strips, specifically spots that can be directed at things such as buildings / plants. One option I found (at least available here in the Netherlands) are lights by a company called MiLight. However, they are controlled by their own controllers (wifi, wall mounted, app on phone, etc.) and to get them to work with HC2 seems a bit antiquated (opening of boxes, re-soldering, etc.) which I'm hoping to avoid. Any suggestions?
  3. Hi I've got a Dimmer 2 with bypass and I have problems with the LED bulbs not dimming low enough. I've tried several bulbs, including some Philips that the distributor has tested himself and reported should work. When doing the calibration is selects a trailing edge dimming, which is in accordance with the bulb manufacturers instructions, but still the lowest setting is quite bright. I then tried to use parameter 30 to force the dimmer to use leading edge - and that makes a big difference! The LED bulbs can now be dimmed much lower. But why is this the case? And what are the dangers of using the leading edge mode?
  4. I will replace some TL light in my garage with 2 PROLIGHT LED batten - 14W - (coupled) (non-dimmable). The current light is connected to the Fibaro FGS223. In the manual there is the following warning: When connecting the Switch 2 act in accordance with the following rules: • Do not connect loads greater than those recommended! • Do not connect types of loads other than resistive and incandescent! If i understand this correctly i can not use the FGS223 and i should replace it by a dimmer althought i do not want to dim at all? Or can i still use the fgs223 as the load is quite small (2x14w) and the risk on damage is basically non existing?
  5. Czy ktoś z Was ma bezproblemowo działającą instalację z Dimmer-em a za nim zasilacz triakowy do LED? Dostaję sporo informacji, że taki układ jest mało stabilny i zasilacze padają jeszcze na gwarancji. Niestety nie mam już możliwości dołożenia przewodów by do włącznika doprowadzić 12V z normalnego zasilacza i wówczas dać moduł RGBW. Potrzebuję taki zasilacz 12V 48W i 12V 18W. Ewentualnie pozostaje mi ustawić Dimmer ręcznie jako praca bez ściemniacza -> zwykły zasilacz LED -> manualny ściemniacz gdzieś ukryty bez współpracy z Fibaro. Z góry dziękuję za wszelkie sugestie
  6. The keyfob manual v1.1 describes the menu as follows: Menu allows to perform Z-Wave network actions. In order to use the menu: 1. Click CIRCLE and MINUS simultaneously. 2. Click TRIANGLE or CROSS until LED indicates desired menu position with colour: • White - wake up the device • Green - learning mode (adding/removing) • Cyan - check battery level • Yellow - reset the device* 3. Click PLUS to confirm selection, Click MINUS to exit the menu. 4. LED will pulse twice with same colour as selected menu position to confirm completing action. I have followed these instructions, but already at step 2, the LED does not come alive no matter how long I press TRIANGLE or CROSS. Any help is highly appreciated. Cheers
  7. Drodzy instalatorzy, Mam zrobione (narazie testowo na kablach i oprawce) podłączenie 2 żyłowe (bez kabla N) z dimmerem i bypassem w/g schematu z pudełka. Zasilana jest żarówka LED z IKEI (https://www.ikea.com/pl/pl/catalog/products/10371203/). Wszystko działa z godnie z przewidywaniem, ale przy wyłączaniu żarówka robi takie śmieszne mrugnięcie: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YjoqVjcl0KHp80hS2 czy można jakoś na to zaradzić? Pozdrawiam Bartłomiej
  8. Hi! Recently we had an electrian over to install LEDs in the kitchen. However, I came a little late, and the push dimmer (in socket) from Eltako (EUD61NPN-UC, supports up to 400W) was already installed when I got back home. Of course I would like to replace it with a Dimmer 2 but I got worried about a line: ref: http://manuals.fibaro.com/dimmer-2/ The LED that was installed is from a Swedish company called UniLumLed. I guess it's some kind of branded light that probably exists under different names. It should consume ~8W with LED and transformer (spec). It's dimmable. What do you think – can I replace the current Eltako with a Dimmer 2? Thanks in advance
  9. Today I tried to install the fibaro double Switch 2, although I only use it to switch one load, I reckoned I could use the double switch anyway. the thing is, I use the switch to power 4 garden lamps. Three of those lamps are power saving halogens and one is a LED. When I switch the switch the lights go on very briefly and then switch off immediately. The led lamp stays on (although less bright than when the switch is on), the rest of the lamps are off. I don't understand why this is; when I just use a normal lightswitch all lamps burn normal. hope anybody can help! Thanks in advance!
  10. Hi, can the LEDs of the HomeKit-Version of the Fibaro Motion Sensor be deactivated? Unfortunately I did not found an option for that in the Fibaro-HomeKit-App nor in an other HomeKit-App. Hope you can help me. Luke11
  11. Hi I am working on Double Relay switch2. I want to switch ON and OFF my LED lights using this switch. Some of my friend who works on Fibaro told me that only 0.5A or 1A LED devices can be controlled using the relay switch. For more than 1A load he told that we have to use the Contacter along with Relay. Is it right. Or could I use the relay directly with LEDs and how much Power LED can be connected directly to it?
  12. Hi, I renovated my house and installed LEDs on the whole floor. I remote these with several fibaro dimmers. All of them is working fine except for in one area. I get an surge error in HC2. The thing is that I have the same amount of LED spotlights in another area with no errors. I have tried replacing the fibaro dimmer and also disconnecting one LED at a time. The original amount of LED on one dimmer is 9 LED 10W. When I come down to 6 LED in my troubleshooting it starts working most of the time. Is there something I'm missing here? I can't seem to understand why it won't work.
  13. Hello everyone, please I´d need your help. I have purchased the RGBW modul and connected the RGBW Led strip to it. It works great. I wanted to also connect 1 temperature sensor (LM35). I believe I did connect it as it should be, yet I can not see the extra widget for the temperature (once inlcuded). The set up allows me to sellect (rgb, rgbw and in/out). Did anyone set up the RGBW modul with led strip as well as with temp sensor? Thank you, Tampiss
  14. Hello all, Brand new RGBW module plugged into a new 24V LED strip and power supply. Module seems to be stuck on the white channel. If I turn the device off in Fibaro, the white channel stays on. I can select other colours, but its leaving the W channel on all the time. I've tried a factory reset. The device isn't using any switches at the moment. Thank you,
  15. Hi everyone! I am new to Fibaro (and home automation in general) but so far I really like what I see! If I may use your collective expertise - I have couple RGBW controllers that I use to control LED strips (white only) around the house. Since I don't have any color LEDs, I use the controller in the input/output mode to control several strips from one unit. This works perfectly except that now the light does not show under lights in the mobile app. I have to go to "rooms" - "bedroom" in the mobile app to see the light and control it. Is there a way to clasify the outputs as lights so that they show up properly? Thanks! Jan
  16. Jeśli szukacie produktów które na pewno działają z Dimmerem lub RGBW zapraszam do kontaktu. Zajmujemy się oświetleniem od 1996r. , prowadzimy salon Fibaro od 2011r. Produkujemy oświetlenie led. [email protected] www.ledbest.eu PRODUKTY TOP taśma led 18W 24V 2800lm=1m https://www.ledbest.eu/pl/p/Tasma-led-ciepla-De-Luxe-rolka-10m-18W-2730lmm/9606 taśma RGBW 16W 24V https://www.ledbest.eu/pl/p/Tasma-led-Regular-300-led-rolka-5m-24V-RGB-cieply/9825
  17. Hi all, I've been searching and reading in this forum and haven't found my exact problem and it's solution just yet. I have a dimmer 2 (fgd212) connected to 5 Pharox 4W led bulbs. I've bridged the leds with the Bypass 2. I've got a dual momentary switch connected to the dimmer, just like in the Fibaro manual, see the attachment. The dual momentary switch is connected with leads between 5 and 10 cm. When I connect the dimmer to power, it starts calibrating. The leds go in increments from off to full bright, so the dimmer is able to get the leds at different light levels. After calibrating the leds get stuk on a single light level, I guess something like 30%. The don't switch off, they don't burn at full level, not through the HC2, nor with the momentary switch. I've looked at all parameters, changed them, did exclusions and reinclusions of the dimmer, etc. No luck. I connected the dimmer to a old fashioned light bulb, not using the bypass, furthermore the same setup. I just had to enable the S2 switch in the settings and it works flawlessly. What could be wrong with the led setup? Thanks in advance, Evert
  18. has someone got this device working with hc2? >> Z-Wave LED RGB Bulb dimmbare E27 Leuchte (AEOEZW098) I have it connected to hc2, but its only visible as dimmer and not as rgb device.
  19. I have had most of our house's ceiling downlights controlled by FDG211 Dimmer modules and these have worked just fine with the 12v Halogen lights. However, yesterday, in the hope of being more energy conscious, I replaced all of these lamps with 7 Watt GU10 LED Spotlight - 70W Replacement bulbs from LEDHUT. I have also added a Fibaro Bypass to ensure there is sufficient load on the circuit. Everything works just fine except when I switch the lights on or off, there is a slight flicker. After this, the light is fine and stable. It also dims as expected too. Has anyone come across this?
  20. I'm having a rather difficult time planning a home automation system for my upcoming project, building a tiny house on wheels. It's only 192 square feet, so it shouldn't be too expensive to make the entire house extremely intelligent. It appears that most Z-Wave solutions are aimed at retrofit installations and not new construction, though. That's a problem. When you aim to do things the most efficient way and you're afforded the freedom of new construction to do it, it doesn't appear easy to do. Most of my concerns are based in lighting. I apologize for the number of issues raised in a single (and first) post, any guidance on any topic is appreciated. I want to use 12VDC LED lighting with dimming and control via Z-Wave. It doesn't make sense in new construction to run high voltage AC through the walls and ceiling, only to have a transformer/driver at every light fixture. I'd rather run 12VDC for lighting. Finding cans/fixtures that run on 12VDC? Not so easy, and when you find them, the options are very limited. I thought of using a standard MR16 can and buying standard dimmable LED bulbs, but you can't find ones designed for DC (most MR16 are 12VAC), and most are not dimmable. Also, it's hard to find the MR16 cans without the attached transformer, which I don't need or want to pay for. Next issue. If I'm running 12VDC LED lighting, it seems dumb to run 120VAC to the wall switch, just to power a Z-Wave switch/dimmer; since most of them seem to be designed for that. I guess an alternative is something more like a handheld remote, but I'd much prefer the system to look installed like regular wall switches and maybe more importantly, operate normally should the Z-Wave hub fail. I saw the Insteon Mini Remote but reviews on mounting in a switch box are really bad. I'm not sure that it even works with Z-wave anyway. It sounds like I COULD run 12V to the switch box and design a circuit that would deliver the 0-10V control signal to a Z-wave dimmer, but I really don't want to do that if I don't absolutely have to. Ideally, are there any Z-Wave switch/dimmers out there that mount in standard switch boxes, can run on 12VDC (or battery) and continue to dim/switch the lighting when the Z-wave hub is down? Next issue. When thinking about running 12VDC throughout the house and how best to do that, I stumbled upon PoE lighting using Cat5/6 wiring. Sadly, most of what's available is for commercial installations. Lumen Cache is interesting but expensive. Am I crazy, or should there be some synergy between control/automation and PoE lighting? I tried to find some interface between Z-Wave and PoE lighting and found none whatsoever. I had an idea that maybe through a Z-Wave serial bridge, one could communicate with on the Lumen Cache comm bus to control that system, but that would require purchasing about $500 worth of Lumen Cache gear, the bridge and writing my own drivers for HC2 (an additional purchase) and it may or may not work. Not to mention, I'm only adept enough at programming to be dangerous. Are there any PoE lighting systems out there or in development designed to interface with Z-Wave or other consumer automation platforms? My aspirations are high for this tiny house, but automation is something I've wanted to do far before going tiny, which I think makes it that much more attainable; but I feel like I'm reinventing the wheel here!
  21. Hello! I start working with a RGBW Modul and LED. I made custom program (number 6, 7, 8, etc...) I found no way to start them in a LUA scene or with a Virtual Device.. I can only start preprogrammed scene (1 to 5). The other don't work. I try to move mine in first place but it's not working too. I try fibaro:call(29, "startProgram", "6"); and got no respond. I tryed with http : http://192.168.1.199...tProgram&arg1=5 send me : {"id":0,"jsonrpc":"2.0","result":{"result":1}} (working) http://192.168.1.199...tProgram&arg1=6 send me : { } (not working) Someone have make this to work? (my goal is to launch a custom LED program when my alarm is on) Its really boring... plz Fibaro Guys fix that
  22. Hi Guys, I have a need to create a scene that will be controlling some LED rigid RGB bars under the bed, via and RGBW module and using a Fibaro Sensor. The LED bars x 3 will be fixed under the bed. The sensor will also be fixed under the bed. My idea is that during the hours of 20:00 and 6:00, the scene will work otherwise it will be ignored. When the sensor detects movement (ie I or my wife puts their feet on the floor) the LED will come on, thereby illuminating the floor around the bed sufficiently for I or my wide to see their way but not so bright that it wakes the other person. The LED's will stay on for 60 seconds then automatically go off. It sounds fairly simple but I am not a LUA programmer. However the graphic building block option was the way I was going to approach it. Has anyone some tips before I rush head on in please?
  23. Hello everyone, I could need some help with setting up some LEDs. Here is what I am planning to do: I want to group 3 or 4 of these LEDs: Trilux InperlaLP C05 BR22 1800-830 ETDD 01 Techspecs (EN) - Installation (EN) Techspecs (PL) - Installation (PL) I would like to control those groups together with one Dimmer Module from Fibaro but I am not exactly sure if this would work, or how I would need to wire them togehter. The LEDs are said to be "electronically dimmable". They are powered by a DALI compatible tranformer as shown in the pictures i've taken: Package Transformer 2 Transformer 3 I am also not sure, if I need to connect the units in a circle, in a row, parallel or whatever. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Michael EDIT: Updated Links.
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