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Wiring Smart Implant to 3 wire PIR motion sensor and LED light controller


Brian41

Question

I installed cascading LED lights on my stair case that is activated with PIR 3 wire motion sensors. My problem is when I walk up stairs the bottom sensor triggers the upward flow of the lights but when I cross the top sensor it triggers the downward flow so they run at the same time. 
I currently have SmartThings (but will be upgrading to Homey soon) and would like to use smart implants between the sensor and the light controller to switch off the top sensor temporarily when the bottom sensor is triggered and visa versa. 
Would smart implants work? If so how would I wire them?

 

System specifics:

DC12V 200 watt power supply

12V LED light controller CT3252

3 wire PIR motion sensor

 

Thank you!

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@Brian41

Hello.

Unfortunately, I rushed the instructions, so you will have to measure it. Theoretically, the sensor is supplied with power on the wires + red, - (gnd) blue. In the event of movement, the green will probably be connected to GND (on the green, in the event of movement, measure the voltage between red and green), or + (measure the voltage between green and blue).

Once you measure this, you will know what happens during movement and you can interrupt the green wire with the SmartImplant output (to one terminal OUT1 you bring the green from the sensor, to the other terminal OUT1 connect the green output to the control unit).

All under the assumption that the green is at rest without voltage and after switching on by movement, some voltage will appear on it.

 

I would then supply the +12V voltage from the first strip to the SmartImplant inputs (after connecting the first strip, the SI input will be powered). Connect the second input in the same way, but bring the voltage from the last strip to it.

Another option will bring voltage directly from the sensor, if +12V appears on the green wire when switched on. You would connect this voltage to the IN1 input and connect it to the OUT1 terminal before disconnecting.

 

Well... it's hard to explain in theory.

Start by measuring the voltage on which sensor wires at rest and when moving. Measure all the wires against each other (all connection variants).

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  • Inquirer
  • Thanks you for the help! 
    So my test results are as follows:

    Red/Blk:

    resting: 11.36v

    moving: 11.36v

    Red/Grn: 

    resting: 1.4mv

    moving: 0v temporarily then back to 1.4mv

    Blk/Grn:

    resting: 11.35v

    moving: 0v temporarily then back to 11.35v

     

    So is this what you were suggesting for wiring the Smart Implant?

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  • Inquirer
  • Ok so this is how I set it up and can turn the motion sensors on and off. 

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    /monthly_2023_11/IMG_0533.jpeg.2b33ce2e4bd20f6c90909c03a297ac53.jpeg" />

     

    Now I need to be able to know when there is motion so I can set up an automation to turn one off for a few seconds when the other is triggered.

     

    I tried putting a jumper between the green wire and input one but I couldn’t get it to register any motion or really see any voltage drop or spike. it might be Smartthings not polling the voltage fast enough or maybe I don’t have the settings right. 
     

    As a back up I used another z-wave motion sensor and was able to set the scene to work but I would really like to just do everything with the Smart Implant. thx!


     

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    @Brian41

    You are on the right track.
    It should be noted that the output is voltage-free, that's why it didn't work for you. According to the measurements you made, it is clear that the potential change during detection is between Blue/Green (ie green will be a positive potential). I assume you measured a sensor that was not connected to the stair control unit! You must therefore connect the required potential to one terminal of the output.

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    Change values of parameters according to the required function (reverse detection):

     

    For connected to IN1 you must set parameter:
    Normally close: change parameter 20 to 0
    or...
    Normally open: change parameter 20 to 1

     

    eM.

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    I'll just add that you have to do the blocking logic of the PIR detectors in the scene.
    There is also the possibility to put the relay logic, which I mentioned in the first post (by detecting a switched LED strip, you break the circuit of the sensor from the other end of the stairs).

     

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  • Inquirer
  • Thanks again for your time. 
    So I followed your diagram and settings which created the following results:

    Motion is detected on the SI but it does not trigger the controller. It also toggles the out put switch on then off. 
    The settings are:

    Profile- 2 Motions + 2 Switches 

    Parameter 20 - Normally open alarm

    Parameter 154 - Normal open - closed if active

    see pictures of settings:

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    I must be missing something. The input single is not getting to the controller to turn on the lights. 

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