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Danfoss LC-13 thermostats do not react to changes in temperature setting


dirkg173
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Hello,

 

I have been using the FIBARO HC2 in combination with 4 Danfoss LC-13 thermostats for more than 3 years now. Overall, I am very satisfied. However, it happens again and again that the thermostats do not react or only react after hours, regardless of whether the heating plan is active or whether I make a manual temperature change (via iOS App).

It can't be a problem with the range of the radio signal, because the thermostats are max. 5 m away from the HC2 with almost no obstructed crow flies.

It is definitely not due to the batteries (Duracell) either.

As it looks like, that 2 of the 4 thermostats have most the problem, the others rarely, but it also happens.

 

The wake-up interval of the thermostats is set to 900 s (default is 1,800 s) and the time interval of the HC2 for reading the modules is set to 125 s. Otherwise "query dead modules" is checked. Everything else should be set as in the factory setting.

 

Does any of you have any of these problems and can you give me some suggestions?

I am grateful for any help and suggestions, even from non Danfoss users! :)

 

greetings

Dirk

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50 minutes ago, dirkg173 said:

How does the technical conversation between HC2 and LC-13 actually work?

I'll talk about that at the end of this post.

 

50 minutes ago, dirkg173 said:

I have never seen the LC-13 flashing (antenna, clock or the illumination of the LCD display on)...

Probably not, it is a typical LC-12 thing, not LC-13 (though technically speaking it can happen). It is just the antenna and bell symbol on the LCD, the TRV does not turn on the backlight when that happens. It is just a warning. But "E1" on an LC-13 is bad.

 

50 minutes ago, dirkg173 said:

Two days ago I also did a "Mesh Network Reconfiguration" of a single LC-13. After that, I couldn't check if the response time had improved.

Does it make sense to reconfigure individual modules, or is it better to reconfigure the whole network (currently I have a relatively small network).

 

It does make sense to update one by one. Start by updating the mains powered devices closest to the HC. Then do the battery operated devices. I can tell a lot more about the "how" and "why" but I think that is not too important right now.

 

50 minutes ago, dirkg173 said:

'm traveling quite often, so I can't always make new settings on the HC2 and check them directly. So I have to trust on the heating plan, the "Manual Mode" and "Holiday Mode".

 

Let's talk about that now!

 

I see you are new to the forum...  Welcome!

 

I've been around here for a while and I think "temperature control" is a tough subject. Much tougher to grasp and understand than electricity. It is more difficult to measure stuff...

 

I do not want to underestimate you... I just want to start at the basics to make sure everyone is at the same level of understanding by the end of this post.

 

This is copy/paste with some rework from my previous posts on this forum... I'll keep repeating and improving the explanation until everyone understands it... To my knowledge, no one on this forum has attempted to explain heating systems... until now. So please bear with me... I am not a heating specialist, but an engineer and passionate about HA so boiler control and temperature is part of my hobby.

 

Let's get some things straight.

 

  • The FGT-001 is a THERMOSTAT. Popp, Danfoss Living Connect (aka LC-12 and LC-13), Eurotronic TRVS, they are all THERMOSTATS. Technically, they are not "valves", they are "thermostatic heads" attached to a valve. It is customary to refer to the assembly (head + valve) as a "Thermostatic Radiator Valve" or TRV.
  • I will use TRV if I refer to some sort of thermostat to control water flow. I will use FGT or FGT-001 when I talk about the "Fibaro Heat Controller". I will NEVER refer to the FGT as the "HC" because that abbreviation is used quite a lot on this forum to reference the "Fibaro Home Center". If I accidentally use HC in a topic about heating, I mean "Home Center". I'll try to avoid that...
  • They do NOT use your controller, to regulate temperature. They do not use any sensor measurement of your Z-Wave system. They contain their own sensor (or sensors!) and the FGT has an optional external probe. That probe is not Z-Wave, it is Bluetooth Low Energy and it is specific to the FGT-001. But since the probe measurements are transferred to your controller, you will get (accurate) temperatures from the FGT. An FGT-001 without such a probe does not report measured temperature and this is by design. The Danfoss LC-12 and LC-13 do not report temperatures either. Popp does report, because it uses a modified firmware version on Danfoss hardware. But the sensor values are inaccurate because the TRV is not in the right spot to measure room temperature. They can be used for reference.
  • You tell the TRV to go to some set-point, for instance, 22 °C and it does that for you! It does not need a controller or a temperature reference, nor does it need a room thermostat and you also do not have to buy the external probe... It is an autonomous system. It uses hot water and a battery to control room temperature. You do not have to use the "heating panel" and you do not have to write any Lua code. If you take it out of its box, mount it on a TRV, it starts controlling temperature, even when it is not included on your Z-Wave network.
  • The FGT-001 can either use its internal sensor or the special extra bluetooth low energy "button" external probe. The extra sensor can be in a more optimal place: the right height, no direct sunlight, nearer to the spot where you want to control temperature. With this probe, the FGT starts reporting temperature too. It reports to the TRV every 10 minutes. To conserve power and reduce network traffic, the FGT only sends temperature to the controller about every 2-3 hours when the temperature readings differ by 0.5-1 degree from the last report.
  • You can turn the KNOB (or push buttons) to change the set point. No magic involved. For instance, on the FGT-001, turn the ring until it displays "cyan" and it will regulate the valve, until the temperature averages 18 °C. It does not need the extra sensor, because there is one (actually two) and the device itself has an algorithm to go to the set temperature. It also does not really need a controller, all magic is performed by the micro-controller in the TRV.
  • Your TRV does not need a connection to a controller to do its job. You can install a TRV, set the thing to 24 °C if you like that, and it will start to open and close the valve. So you can check the performance of your TRV by leaving it excluded, so you can be sure it is not influenced by code or "something on your controller". This way you can be sure it is not a communication problem, or a script changing the set-point. Of course, this degrades it to "a mechanical thermostatic head" - but we managed to live with that kind of control, did we not?
  • You get more interesting possibilities, with a Z-Wave controller. You can send temperature settings to the controller via your app, or using the browser interface. Like: "go to 23 °C for 4 hours". Because FGT-001 is a FLiRS (frequently listening routing slave) device, roughly one second after you change the temperature, it will take into account your new target value! So there is no "wake up" interval (and delay) like ordinary battery operated device. Older TRVs are not FLIRS so they kind of "request settings at regular intervals" - otherwise know as "wake up interval". To my best knowledge, the only other FLiRS device on the market is the "Spirit Z-Wave Plus". Danfoss has announced the LC14, it should be FLiRS based but I don't think you can buy one yet.
  • Some part of slowness of the "older TRVs" comes from the wake up interval. The FGT-001 has eliminated that. It will respond to commands "almost instantly". Older TRVs ask the controller at regular intervals "what is my set-point" (target temperature). It is recommended to set wake up > 300 and < 900 and set each older TRV wake up with 10 seconds difference to avoid collisions. FLiRS devices  do not have such a setting because they do not need one (they are nearly instant).
  • So, you have your TRV connected (included, added) to a Z-Wave controller? Then from now on you have a "remote control" for your thermostat. It still does not need your controller or a temperature sensor to control the temperature. Sometimes, it is more convenient to use your phone or a tablet. But it's not real automation (yet). Communication is bidirectional: the controller can set the TRVs set-point and the TRV will report the set-point if someone turns the knob. If you change the setting on the TRV, it sends that information to the controller, so you can immediately see in your app or on your browser... set-point has changed. You'll notice a timer too, this is something interesting to talk about but not right now. Just keep in mind changing the setting on the TRV acts as "an override with a timer" (it requires more explanation, I know...). The FGT-001 also reports temperature if it has an external sensor. It DOES NOT report sensor data without external sensor. To me, this makes totally sense, because the sensor is not in a good spot to measure room temperature. I have dedicated a separate topic to this. Popp is a modified Danfoss TRV. It reports temperature, but depending on your house and position of the TRV, its temperature reporting will not match the temperature at a key point in your room... If you want to know more, please read my other topic... 

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  • The next step would be to use "the heating panel". The heating panel is nothing but a scheduler. It contains time/temperature settings (pairs). And all it does is send the schedule to the TRV. Again, the FGT or Danfoss is fully autonomous after it receives the schedule. Older thermostats get only a set-point change. The FGT-001 gets a complete schedule. The effect is largely the same. You can override the schedule by turning the knob, or by using the app. You get manual override and holiday mode as a bonus. You need to understand the concept of zones and rooms and maybe take into account that one FGT remote sensor can send temperature to three FGT-001 heads. It might be a little bit more complex than I suggest... one thing that trips people is how "time" plays a role in overriding the schedule.
  • If this still isn't enough control, you can use Lua to send a set-point to the TRV. Even in this case, you still do not need an extra temperature measurement... The FGT is FLiRS and responds almost instantly to your commands. The older valves get a setting at the next wake-up (typically set to anything between 5 an 30 minutes). Of course, you can use some sensor in the room to estimate the performance of the TRV and nudge the set-point up and down, to compensate for the fact the TRV is not in a good position to measure room temperature. I do not present scripts to do this... You can use Lua with or without the heating panel,. If you want to make your own scheduler, you can do that, no need to configure the heating panel.
  • The setting "The main thermostat:" on the  "room settings tab" can be used by Lua scenes, but I do not think it is used in any other way.
  • The setting "The main temperature sensor:" on the  "room settings tab" selects the sensor for the temperature gauge in the top left corner of a room (app + browser) for display purposes. It does not in influence temperature control, unless you use or write Lua scene(s).
  • All the TRV needs is... a steady source of hot water and battery. And this brings us to the issue of room thermostat and boiler control. The boiler should take care of the hot water problem. It has a boiler thermostat, and possibly some settings and maybe an external probe. You see, I do not mention a "room thermostat" when I talk about boiler control, this is intentional. I might discuss this another time.
  • For sake of completeness... other TRV systems exist. If you are interested in a mains operated, completely silent actuator (not a thermostat!) look up "thermoelectric actuator". notice: "actuator" is not "thermostat"... You need a thermostat to control that kind of actuator. It is something to keep in mind: all Z-Wave TRVs make some noise!
  • There is one rather peculiar device on the market, which causes a lot of confusion: "Danfoss RS 014G0160 Thermostat". On a HC 4.160 you can use this as a kind of remote control. It does not act as a real thermostat, because the device does not control any output (on a home center). You can use Lua to intercept "value" and "timestamp" as with any other thermostat.
  • Also for sake of completeness...You can turn a sensor and a switch (relay) into a basic thermostat using "linked device". It only works with a relay, not a thermostat. I am not a big fan of this setup, if communication fails and the relay gets stuck "open" or "close" your room might get very hot or cold. You can by thermostats with a relay instead.
  • FGT-001 has issues, we are waiting on a device specific firmware update.

Are you still with me?

 

Any questions? Go ahead! There are no stupid questions... I learn from people asking questions, either because it makes me formulate the answer or makes me aware of things I do not know! Thats good!

Edited by petergebruers
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I could have written that post :-)

Long time user of LC12 (four) and LC13 (two). And testing FGT-001 (two, with external sensor) plus mechanical TRVs plus "weather compensated heating controller". Heating systems are complex and vary wildly. Difficult to diagnose and discuss, but I want to give it a try...

 

To be sure we are talking about the same thing... are you saying the TRVs display the correct value, but the valve does not open or close? So it is too hot or too cold and the TRV does not seem to respond?

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@dirkg173 @petergebruers

I had the same problem with LC13 Danfoss. Display LC13 showed correct temperature but position of the valve was`nt changed.  This issue was present when level of battery was less then 60%. I changed battery for power supply (3,3V, 700mA), excluded/included modul LC13 from/to system and now for 1 month it works very well.

Edited by Jacek Stark
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3 minutes ago, Jacek Stark said:

Display LC13 showed correct temperature but position of the valve was`nt changed.  This issue was present when level of battery was less then 60%. I changed battery for power supply, excluded/included modul LC13 from/to system and now for 1 month it works very well.

 

My idea as well... But I do not have enough data to say this is really the issue. I think this happens indeed on an LC13 with low-ish battery level (or high internal resistance of the cells). In my home, LC13 only has this a few times each year. With LC12 it happens often in a certain room, and a lot more often, and I think it has something to do with "open window detection" (because it does not happen that often to the LC12 that is in my kitchen, far away from a window). Like it gets stuck in "open window detected".  I usually replace the batteries and nudge the temp all the way up for 15 minutes. Then it goes back into regulation, but the problem comes back on certain LC12... When Fibaro releases new firmware I'll replace the LC12 with FGT-001... The LC12 also has "blinking antenna and bell symbol" issues and the LC13 can report "E1" error which have to do with Z-Wave communication, so there are still other possible explanations. Also, boiler control might play a part...

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32 minuty temu, petergebruers napisał:

When Fibaro releases new firmware I'll replace the LC12 with FGT-001...

I think, protokol for good work of every thermostat`s is very dificult. It`s a "long way" for team fibaro that their FGT-001 wiil be works good.

 

 

30 minut temu, petergebruers napisał:

The LC12 also has "blinking antenna and bell symbol" issues and the LC13 can report "E1" error which have to do with Z-Wave communication

Now, i have`nt a problem with this. ( power supply ).

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35 minutes ago, Jacek Stark said:

Now, i have`nt a problem with this. ( power supply ).

 

Thank you for your information. Maybe I should elaborate a bit. LC12 uses older Z-Wave protocol and it does not like "routed" connections and it also wants good and fast response from the controller. If it does not have that, it starts "blinking antenna and bell symbol". It might work like that, because it might succeed at the next wake up interval but I think it never clears the blinking. To get rid of that, you have to enter the menu and perform a link test ("LI" on the display). The LC13 uses better protocol and I see no significant user reports of this "blinking". But the LC13 can still have other issues and report several E numbers. And "E1" has to do with communication. There are some reports of LC13 doing this, but it is rare. Also, it might happen more on firmware 1.0 and less on firmware 1.1 (latest version of LC13). This might explain why you have never seen "E1" (because it is rare) or "blinking" (because you do not have any LC12). Does this help?

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@petergebruers

I have 10 parts of LC1X. ( 8 x LC12 & 2 x LC13 ). Two thermostats are linked for power supply ( 1xLC12  1x LC13 ) and exactly these two termostats now works very fine. Maybe it's a coincidence but it is. I will see that after one more month of work.

 

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11 minutes ago, Jacek Stark said:

Two thermostats are linked for power supply ( 1xLC12  1x LC13 ) and exactly these two termostats now works very fine.

 

Oh, yes, plausible! I do think power supply has an effect. But maybe your test period is a bit too short to say it works, with some confidence?

 

BTW you also have LC12, can you check if you have blinking antenna and bell symbol? Mabe you never noticed before?

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@petergebruers

Godzinę temu, petergebruers napisał:

can you check if you have blinking antenna and bell symbol? Mabe you never noticed before?

Every day morning i seen "blinking antenna and bell symbol" on LCD display LC12. To get connection i have been to enter the menu and perform a link test ("LI" on the display). Now is ok. Yes ofcourse my test period is a bit to short to say it works perfectly. I will write about my experiences after month.:)

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  • Hello @petergebruers and @Jacek Stark,

    thank you for your feedback and sorry for my late reply.

     

    The problems you are discussing about are not the problems I have.

     

    I am quite sure that this is a problem regarding the data transfer between HC2 and thermostat, possibly also a problem regarding of the waking up procedure of LC-13, so it is not a mechanical problem. The valves open and close smoothly when the correct setpoint temperature has been reached.

    About 3 hours ago I set all 4 thermostats to 14 °C via "Holiday Mode". The right-hand thermostat in the living room reacted within approx. 5-10 seconds, the second thermostat in the living room, which is only approx. 80 cm away from the right-hand thermostat, and the other two thermostats in the bathroom and kitchen did not react within the next 10 minutes. As I had to leave and I didn't had time to wait further 30 minutes, I wanted to set the temperature at the thermostats manually. As I pressed the middle button 〈⦁〉 the old temperature of 20 °C appeared for about 1 secondon in the display, but then immediately switched to the newly set temperature of 14 °C. This update was also immediately visible in the iOS app.

     

    Could it be a problem of the settings of the HC2 and/or the Danfoss thermostats?

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    Sounds like a network issue. Either mesh issue or network too busy. Need more info. How many mains powered devices do you have? Do you have delays when switching lights? Do you have dead nodes or communication failures. Set the wake up of all the TRVs to different values, 10 sec difference, starting at 300. So first TRV 300, second 310 and so on...

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  • Sorry for the late reply, I tried to make a sketch of my home with the FIBARO/Z-Wave components (please see appendix). I hope it is understandable.

     

    I don't have any main powered devices, except the 5 FIBARO WallsPlugs. But I like to install main powered light switches in the next few weeks.

    Delays when switching lights? --> no (with the FIBARO WallPlugs)

    Dead nodes or communication failures? --> no

     

    At beginning of next week I will change the settings of the TRVs. At the moment I'm not at home and via remote access such changes are not possible.

    I will report what happens.

     

    Thank you very much for your help and I wish you a great weekend.

     

    Greetings

    Dirk

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    Hi in the thread

     

    Interesting to read different posts.

     

    I have 6 pieces. LC12

     

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    you write that when you press the center button, it will immediately update to 14 degrees, I also experience the thermostat waking up and updating immediately.

     

    When you wake up at 900, it can be from 0-900 seconds before the temperature is updated on the LC12-LC13.

     

    My LC12 also flashes periodically with antenna and clock, but they seem ok anyway. Have checked it right now and they actually blinked all 6 pieces.

     

    I have wake up interval for between 850 and 900 seconds all different.

     

    I have sometimes run a "Mesh network reconfiguration" during configuration> Z-wave network, but only for one thermostat at a time. Maybe it helps.

    Edited by hTiger1
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  • Welcome @hTiger1

     

    I know that the LC-13 needs up to 15 minutes to wake up (with 900 s wake up interval), but my LC-13 still don't react sometimes after several hours.
    In the next few days I will program the wake-up time of the LC-13 with a difference of 10 seconds and watch what happens.


    How does the technical conversation between HC2 and LC-13 actually work?

    - Does the HC2 check again and again at a certain interval whether the LC-13 have reached the setpoint temperature?
    - Or does the HC2 sends the setpoint to the thermostat only once?
    - Does the LC-13 also send data back to the HC2, so that the HC2 compares the status between set-point of the HC2 and the actual value at the LC-13 and send the set-point temperature to the LC-13 again?
    - Is there a possibility to check or support this procedure with LUA-script? (I'm a greenhorn regarding LUA programming)

     

    I have never seen the LC-13 flashing (antenna, clock or the illumination of the LCD display on)...

     

    Two days ago I also did a "Mesh Network Reconfiguration" of a single LC-13. After that, I couldn't check if the response time had improved.

    Does it make sense to reconfigure individual modules, or is it better to reconfigure the whole network (currently I have a relatively small network).

     

    I'm traveling quite often, so I can't always make new settings on the HC2 and check them directly. So I have to trust on the heating plan, the "Manual Mode" and "Holiday Mode".

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  • Hello @petergebruers

    sorry for the late response, but I had a lot to read and learn. :)
    Thank you for your great explanation!

    I fully agree with you: it is very important to speak the same language!


    I already knew some aspects of what you wrote about, but not all, especially regarding the FGT. Because of my problem with the LC-13 I had already thought about replacing them with the FGTs. However, without knowing the technical differences to the LC-13. My attitude was: The FGT is from FIBARO and I use the HC2 from FIBARO, so this has to work. ;)

     

    Now I would like to give you some information about my problem:

    • I am aware of how the LC-13 works in a Z-Wave network. The LC-13 react only to a command from the HC2 "Set the temperature to 21.0 °C", no more and no less. This can be done manually with the app, via the browser interface or automatically via a "heating plan". (I don't want to talk about manual operation of the LC-13, otherwise I could have continued to use manual TRVs... ;))
    • All LC-13 do not show any error messages such as "E1".
    • The valves of the LC-13 move immediately as soon as I change the temperature manually on the LC-13 (no mechanical problem!)
    • The LC-13 are correctly integrated into the Z-Wave network and the HC2 (no general problems, no error messages)
    • Use of the "heating plan" is sufficient for me completely, I do not need a LUA script
    • I am 99.9% sure that my problem has to do with the communication of the temperature setpoint from the HC2 to the LC-13 or with the waking up of the LC-13.
    • Sometimes the communication of the temperature setpoint to the LC-13 works, sometimes not. However, it is almost the same LC-13 which has these problems. 2 other LC-13 (I use 5 thermostats in total) also have sometimes the problem, but much less often.
    • The distance between the HC2 and the LC-13 is approx. 5 meters
    • Yesterday I adjusted the wake-up interval for all 5 LC-13s (from 540 to 620 seconds, with a difference of 20 seconds)
    • The time interval for the query of the HC2 is set to 125 seconds (recommended interval from the HC2)
    • Today, after more than 26 hours, 2 out of 5 LC-13 have still not adjusted the setpoint temperature, which I had set yesterday via "Holiday-Mode" (see screenshot)
    • The two LC-13s (these in the screenshot) are only about 60-80 cm apart from each other!
    • The batteries are still in good condition. I replaced the batteries of the badly functioning LC-13 only a few weeks ago with new quality batteries.

     

    Next, I will reconfigure the Mesh network, starting with the electrical powered modules closest to the HC2 (in my case only FIBARO Wall Plugs) and then the battery powered modules.
    In addition, I will try to switch "The main thermostat" in the living room (register "Rooms") from the left LC-13 (this is the LC-13 with the most problems) to the right LC-13 (works without any problems).
    But one change after another.

     

    I hope I haven't forgotten to mention anything.


    I'll definitely tell you if anything has changed.

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    On 21-2-2018 at 4:31 PM, dirkg173 said:

    Thank you for your great explanation!

    I am glad you like it. If I can improve something, please tell me.

     

    On 21-2-2018 at 4:31 PM, dirkg173 said:

    Use of the "heating plan" is sufficient for me completely, I do not need a LUA script

    At the moment, that is a good thing, so we are certain no script can influence the heating panel.

     

    On 21-2-2018 at 4:31 PM, dirkg173 said:

    Sometimes the communication of the temperature setpoint to the LC-13 works, sometimes not. However, it is almost the same LC-13 which has these problems. 2 other LC-13 (I use 5 thermostats in total) also have sometimes the problem, but much less often.

    This is intriguing, I wonder if there is a particular issue with your network, in a certain area.

     

    On 21-2-2018 at 4:31 PM, dirkg173 said:

    The distance between the HC2 and the LC-13 is approx. 5 meters

    In an average house, I'd say 10 to 15 meters is possible (for a direct connection). If there are no obstacles, 5 m is not a lot.

    So this goes against the theory of a network issue. Unless you've got a source of interference. That is something to keep in mind.

     

    On 21-2-2018 at 4:31 PM, dirkg173 said:

    The batteries are still in good condition. I replaced the batteries of the badly functioning LC-13 only a few weeks ago with new quality batteries.

    I see. Unless they were quickly drained, we can eliminate battery problems. But when in doubt, either swap them with another valve, or try non-rechargeable lithium batteries. Expensive, but they do last longer and a few users told me they are excellent for this purpose.

     

    On 21-2-2018 at 4:31 PM, dirkg173 said:

    Next, I will reconfigure the Mesh network, starting with the electrical powered modules closest to the HC2 (in my case only FIBARO Wall Plugs) and then the battery powered modules.

    Let's see how that goes.

     

    If that still does not help, and if you haven't done this already, there is maybe one thing you should try on one of the failing TRVs... But then, unfortunately, the TRV will have to relearn the response of your radiator so it may take a wile to go back to (good) regulation.

     

    And that is... Exclude it... Delete the zone... Add back the zone and include the room. Include the TRV and assign it to the room.

     

    That is the equivalent of... ;-)

     

     

    Edited by petergebruers
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  • On 22.2.2018 at 5:23 PM, petergebruers said:

    So this goes against the theory of a network issue. Unless you've got a source of interference. That is something to keep in mind.

    I probably don't have a network problem, but maybe a source of interference. In another forum I read that you can detect sources of interference with a DVB-T USB stick and software. Maybe I will try it later.

     

    On 22.2.2018 at 5:23 PM, petergebruers said:

    Unless they were quickly drained, we can eliminate battery problems. But when in doubt, either swap them with another valve, or try non-rechargeable lithium batteries. Expensive, but they do last longer and a few users told me they are excellent for this purpose.

    The batteries didn't run out quickly. Nevertheless, this is a good tip with the non-rechargeable lithium-ion batteries. I'll check it out.

     

    I haven't reconfigured the network yet. In another forum I read that after a certain time the network is looking for the old (good) ways again. I'm not sure I'm gonna do it yet. However, I will install some light switches in the next few weeks. This will definitely improve the network and the signal transmission to "far away" battery-powered components. The light switches are located between HC2 and LC-13.

     

    I have noticed, that I can't realize all the tips and suggestions from you and from the other forum as quickly as I would like. Unfortunately, it takes a lot more time.
    I also get some contradictory statements, which confuses me a lot. I can only try to take them both seriously and try them out. But that takes a while.
    But I will keep you up to date on the current status.

     

    The video is great! :D

     

    Have a nice Sunday

    Dirk

     

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    Dirk173, thank you for nice summarization. More things make sense now...

    But still, this bugs me, so I'll post here in hope for some clarification, ideas or hints...

     

    I am thinking of buying fibaro home center 2, ane for my first application I wanted to fix my heating issue... We have a gas heater +many radiators. The heater is connected to the thermostat. The thermostat is a simple Honeywell. Within there is a simple relay that shorts the circuit of a gas heater (only 1 wire in (live) and 1 out)... The thermostat is battery powered - as there is no neutral wire coming from gas heater...

    The problem is that I don't have a way to move this thermostat to the coldest room in the house, therefore some rooms are cold.

    I was thinking of setting up a system of 5-10 temp sensors in most of the rooms. Then once the temperature in any room would drop below my set value, home automation would turn on the gas heater... Radiators have thermostatic valves so overheating any single room would not be a problem. Once all rooms are at least at the target temperature, Home automation should turn gas heater off.

    So, in an essence, I want to build a simple thermostat but one that gets temperatures from a bunch of rooms.

    I was looking to put this together with least amount of tinkering as I don't have much time, but I did not find a fibaro product that is a simple battery powered zwave 230v relay. Fibaro switches/relays all need live and neutral wire, as they are powered from it. Or am I missing something there?

    How to solve this?

    Ideas? Comments? Advice welcome...

     

    Attaching photos of the current thermostat:

     

    Please login or register to see this image.

    12BDj0r.jpg

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