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Today the RGBW Controller has two options as it was before was power cut (memorized) or off. I would like to have another option "device turns on with status set in parameter XX". This would give the possibility of cutting the power to the LED Driver and upon power-on set a default value. Today: 16. Memorize device status at power cut. Device will be set to status memorized before power cut. Default setting: 1 0 - device does not memorize its status at the power cut. Load is disconnected. 1 - device memorizes its status at the power cut. Load will be set to the status from before power cut (parameters, current outputs status, energy) Parameter size: 1[byte] Suggestion: Parameter 16 ... 2 - device turns on with status set in parameter XX Parameter XX If Parameter 16 is set to A. The RGBW controller will start with the values set here. Each byte refer to a given output channel. Ordered as Red, Green, Blue, White, where Red is the MSB. Calculate value as (Red x 16777216) + (Green x 65536) + (Blue x 256) + (White x 1) Parameter size: 4[byte] Please replace A and XX with available numbers. (I deliberately avoided setting numbers)

I already read this previous topic dealing with classical in-wall rotary dimmers and the Fibaro dimmer2 module, but I think the following combination would work better. Your advice would be very much appreciated. The RGBW dimmer (FGRGB-101 / FGRGBWM-441) accepts 0-10V analog voltage input to control 12/24V DC low voltage lamps (LEDs or halogens): 1/ Can a cost-effective classical 0-10V rotary dimmer pilot the RGBW module which would then dim the lights accordingly to the input rotation? Like this one for example: 2/ If it works that way, how would the knob rotation of the 0-10V potentiometer behave with the direct control of the RGBW module from the Fibaro interface on a computer or mobile device? Suppose you have turned the potentiometer half the way to dim the lights up to 50%. Then you open the Fibaro app and switch off the lights. Do the lights switch off? If they are switched off, the potentiometer is still at 50%… What would happen then when you turn the potentiometer again? 3/ To prevent this apparent weird behavior, I looked for 360-degree (i.e. continuous rotation with no stop) optical or Hall effect absolute rotary encoders with 0-10V analog output, as a replacement for classical potentiometers: But in this case while the voltage varies linearly according to shaft rotation from 0V/0° to 10V/359° (1 turn) it also suddenly drops to zero at the beginning of the second turn (the voltage drops from max. 10V at 359° to 0V at 360°, just one degree further) like this: This graph is for 0-5V but 0-10V acts the same way. Not very handy for lights. It would have been more useful if the voltage stayed at maximum value of 10V after 360°. 4/ I then searched for incremental rotary encoders instead of absolute rotary encoders, but it seems an incremental version with 0-10V analog voltage output doesn't exist. Your thoughts?

Hi, Is there a way to associate a RGBW controller (FGRGB-101) as a master, with a Dimmer 2 module (FGD-212) as a slave, either as a Z-Wave direct association or with a LUA script on the main controller? My goal is to dim LEDs connected to 110-240V AC, with a distant low voltage RGBW module. LEDs are connected to a Dimmer 2 module. 30 feet away, a 12V DC RGBW controller interprets the variable output of an analog sensor. I'd like to dim the distant LEDs accordingly to the level the RGBW module would set if it was directly connected to equivalent 12V DC LEDs. In other words, can the dimming level information of an RGBW controller be passed to a Dimmer 2? I know that two RGBW modules can be synchronised, but I don't know if an RGBW module and a Dimmer 2 module can be synchronised.

Afternoon all. I've seen many people asking how to make a smart DoorBell with the Fibaro System and thought i'd create a guide on one I have recently created using the Fibaro universal sensor, RGBW controller, Sonos LUA device and notification panel and an existing doorbell. In my house, there was an existing mains powered DoorBell made by Byron. After taking the case off, i turned off the power and started to gut out all of the components just so i had the bell button wires and the mains wires. I bought, off off Amazon a small LED driver to convert 240v to 12vDC with just enough amperage to run the FGBS-00-1. Link Below http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B016AH5ABA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 I then wired up the LED driver with the mains power, put my HC2 in inclusion mode and connected the power to the uni sensor. This included fine so then soldered one of the inputs to the positive of the bell wire and the negative to the other. I found out the the bell push button on the outside of the house had a bulb in it and did not work as a normal push button so changed it for a basic push-to-make button and this worked AOK so i organised the old doorbell and ended up looking like this before i put the cover on. I also have a CCTV system with some Hikvision IP cams so made the following script when the doorbell is pressed to start some scenes in the house, play a track on the Sonos, send notifications to iPhones and to take a photo of the front door. With the device groups, these are all RGBW controllers around the house that flash for about 3 seconds and then turn off with the next scene. Here is the the script for when the doorbell switch is safe. With the DS Hall LED turning off after 120 seconds, this is for a set of LED lights in the porch as per below. Works like a charm and has done for about 3 weeks with no problems. Previously, i was using a Fibaro door/window sensor with the bell wire but just wanted to step it up a notch:-) If anyone has any questions at all, please let me know and i will see if i can help. Thanks, Hallamnet